jettajody

Cool to stop by and show some love! Stick around a bit and you will get that starquest bite again and put yours back on the road! I have got to get off my bodybuilding forums and get back to the quests again myself! Welcome home brotha!

PM sent!

You have to take a big pry bar and wedge it hard some where on control, but not on tierod!!! You MUST use a 5lb sledge or you won't get anywhere. Have a person pry down on the bar and smack it super hard on knuckle. Try soaking it to with some good lube. GOOD LUCK BRO!

Sounds like a James Bond movie!!

Get that salt off NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah bro!! You can do it yourself if you have equipment, and skilled in that area. The stock size is 48mm and can be bored out 53mm. The divider can be knife edged as well. Brian at Lowershoresperformance does this for a living. I am pretty sure you can clean up and and polish the bottom side as well. It all makes a difference. You could butcher it with a dremel to, but you will never be happy like you would if done right!! Dremel takes forever to!! FYI-maybe it is 52mm...

Hey, give that thing a bath would ya!!!!lol!

Cool deal bro!! DON'T CRUSH EM'! RESTORE EM'! Might want to grab that drink off the back of the car before it gets hot, and ice melts making it watered down!!!

Ah yes, the lovely ford escorts. Such good cars. Ummmmmmmm, I wounder why they stopped making them!LOL!

I am trying to figure out why in the hell they were doing that, and why were people just standing around waiting for that car to come at them!!!

Yeah, actually I taught those guys how to do that.... It wasn't easy to teach them how to drive the best, like me.. I try not to toot my owne horn though. TOOT!

Yeah, super good work! So start mass producing those things!!

Ahhh, buddy you should have not gotten that from Autozone, Napa, Discount Auto. No throttle shaft seals, and not all O-rings. Brian at Lowershoresperformance, has the best deal IMHO! Great instructions, great customer service. I have bought 2 kits from him. Thats the only place I recommend!

Unfortunately, any head unit is not producing 40-60 RMS [true power output]. It is more like 15-24 watts RMS. Like said above, it will be weak then as well. Depending on the nature of the beast, you can use a after market deck if the components are on the entry level side, 50-75 watts RMS. Now if you buy a 4ch amp that is in the 35-100 watt RMS range you will have a nice clean and loud audio. I sold super high end car/home audio/video for many years, and I can tell you that hands down ALPINE is the best!!!!!! Audio processing is far more superior to the rest. Just google alpine F-1 Status [ nuff said ]. The deck I have sitting in my closet is one you can get pretty cheap these days used. Alpine CDA-9813 - Alpine CDA-9815. It is a highly complex unit, but it is clean,clean,clean!!!!

Glad you made it home bro!! It would suck to leave my baby in some strange place. Tirerack.com is where I would go. 9's in the rear right??? I saw Sumitumo z rated 245/45/16 for like 84bucks a piece.....

Maybe a piece of jet-valve let loose and clogged things up??????

I think with a decent stock setup, you could run a safe 15-16 PSI. If you had a wideband you could just turn it up little by little until it either knocked or started to run lean. After 16-17 PSI these 12A's start huffing hot air, however some people say boost is boost. You can bet though that on those higher level PSI's the turbo will end it's life that much quicker. Do you have a BOV? Compressor stall on high boost levels will kill the turbo that much quicker to.....

You will get distortion through the driver. The sound quality will be extremely poor. A absolute waste IMO. The treble that will be delivered through the driver won't be present, the words and music will be extremely weak. The only positive you may get from the abscence of crossover and dome tweeters, will be some kick a** mid bass, LOL! If you don't like hooking all these things up, than just stick to coaxials!!

Really good question, yes the stock arms have a pin per side, a lot of these old school cars, import/domestic had these crappy things. Mine weren't missing but the pin was rusted in there. I to my self would like to know where we can get a newer designed arm, tired of mine dragging, and skipping. They work pretty crappy to!

I know he does, I'm about to have a fit over here!!!

So what do you do when that washer becomes completly trash??????????????

Good thought and post. I have talked to Dave from Redline on the phone several times. Super nice guy and is always able to help. To answer this, The full race oils they use are not for daily driving. Reason is because they do not have the detergents that oils need for stop and go traffic. The oil you stated above would be great for a straight race car of any sort seeing the continuous high reving and balls to the walls driving. So from the master at Redline himself, he would not recommend these non-hypoid oils in a street car. Use the High Performance Hypoids like 5w30 -10w30-ETC. I use them when the pocket book allows, and bar non the best!!!!! If you would like to know why they are the best it is because the base stocks used in there oil are the ones that are used to lubricate jet turbines....

Thanks guys, I will check all of these things on Saturday. Indiana, TBI has been rebuilt by me, and when they put new head on, they put a new intake gasket on. Mike C., coolant isn't dropping from radiator, but the radiator looks rough in and out, so IDK! The only visable coolant leak is the line going from T-housing to turbo [ rubber portion at clamps ].

Sorry, I have 89 injectors and they need service! I would let them go cheap........

I will start this off by saying that the other day I was idleing and this guy I know says. Hey bud, hate to give you the bad news but, do you smell that kinda of sweat smell from the exhaust. Sweat? It smells funky, kinda like it is running lean I suppose. He said, thats antifreeze, had 2 cars smell just like that before. I have a new head and head gasket [not done by me]. The car misses, surges a tad bit, boggy on intial take off, rpm stumble on occasion, ETC. There is no smoke period out of exhaust [black, blue, white]. Now when it is really cold out side like here recently. I start the car up and it idles at 1450rpm, and drops slowly at the proper speed. I drive off and she runs like a beast, smooth. No miss. No bogginess, nothing. Just raw power with what seems to be no problems until it is ran for a few miles then its back to the old story. I changed the oil the other day and it is puking from somewhere on drivers side block. I have redone the pan gasket and I no its not there due to the much higher level of wetness, meaning the leak is higher than the pan gasket. You guys have a clue on this! I have all the new basic parts including CTS. This thing is driving me nuts here!!!!