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movin on

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About movin on

  • Birthday 11/28/1983

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  • Location
    Necedah, WI
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  • Transmission Type
  • Factory Color
    Sarajevo White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
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Newbie (1/14)



  1. Hi, my head was off of my blown motor and I was not able to spin the flexplate to undo the torque converter bolts during the uninstall. I had disconnected everything else from the transmission and placed the tail shaft on a few pieces of cardboard while slowly elevating the motor and bellhousing with a cherry picker until I could get the transmission disconnected. I did this with a friend and did all I could to not put any torquing pressure on the assembly. My question is if and how can I tell that the transmission could have been damaged or not during the uninstall? It does not leak any fluid and the seals are good. Can I just spin the torque converter and as long as everything spins well, is it fine?
  2. I have an M28 head that needs a valve job due to a slight seat warp on two seats for the intake valves. This head was looked at by a machinist and I have his contact information and the receipt from him if you would like to talk to him. The seats are marked in the photos. I am not sure of the exact flatness of the head. I knew when I brought it in before he cleaned it, it was .006" right by the #3 cylinder. He said it cleaned up well and that it is more flat after being cleaned. I would recommend it being decked if you planned on running a metal gasket, because it doesn't look like glass. The good: Schneider 100lb springs Ported Runners with stock valves (porting was approved by machinist and was done by Scotty) Hydraulic set-up with stock cam (Jet Valve arms were grinded off for reduced weight) This head was able to help produce 290hp/320tq on a screamin banshee cam/16g/TBI I need to check the ARP headstuds, but if they are fine (which they should be) I will throw those in too $150 shipped I feel this is reasonable because a bare casting of this head is $265 plus shipping. http://s12.postimg.org/4umgnn9zt/20150829_172724.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/tqfwb4wnt/20150829_172837.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/v47j6fvx5/20150829_172846.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/jhnf5b8m1/20150829_172904.jpg
  3. I have a low mileage 88 auto, but I would have to check shipping if you are interested.
  4. Since I was the owner of that car before Allen, I would say that you have a good base to work with. It will have faster shifts and less heat with the vb mod. I would suggest putting a larger transmission cooler on there before doing much modding for horsepower. Also, don't boost in overdrive, because that is the weakest gear and will burn out. As for horsepower, I know there isn't a magical number, but I would imagine you could do mid to maybe upper 200's without an issue with the above advice considered.
  5. Not what I was looking for, bit a nice start http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130258
  6. 89palermoshp has a write up on how to do an aftermarket ebay oil cooler install.
  7. Hi, I recently purchased a 302 with a build sheet from the machinist. The problem is that I have tried identifying the pistons with the part number provided, but it comes up without any results online. Also, how does the preparation for circle track racing as described in the description affect my engine? 302s are new to me, so any info or additional part identification would be great. Engine is an '82 302 HO with gt40p heads. http://s2.postimg.org/t11efx5et/IMG_5291.jpg http://s2.postimg.org/fledqgwx1/IMG_6405.jpg
  8. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hallman-Manual-Boost-Controller-/331605809374?nav=SEARCH Better than a cheap/leaky boost controller
  9. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Synapse-Blow-Off-Valve-w-extras-/331605934827?nav=SEARCH
  10. Very little use and great condition Hallman manual boost controller for $40 shipped. Hallman is a great namebrand, so this is a good part. http://s17.postimg.org/stq28rx3f/20150613_102655.jpg
  11. It is at my friends shop with my car in the trunk. I am hoping to get it on Saturday.
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