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hippynerd last won the day on June 10 2015

hippynerd had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
  • Gender

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  • Zip Code
  • Model
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  • Transmission Type
  • Factory Color
    After Market
  • Interior Color
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. I like flat black. it hides the dirt, but you can stil find oil leaks when they happen.
  2. The quick easy way would be to just replace the switch. You could repaire it to factory, assuming the wiring, relays, sensors all work, and if you only have to replace a sensor to get it to work, then its not too bad, but you may have to study chapter 8 a lot, and test each compnent and trace every wire. It may not be hard to fix, or it may take days, hard to say from here. Another option is to replace the elelctric fans with a clutch fan and shroud. Its more reliable, and lightens the load on the electrical system quite a lot.
  3. Heh, no, i used a drill, many grinding bits, and a fetl tip marker. I marked the housing where the parts mate with felt tip pen. Fit parts and scratch a little ink, and grind away where parts touch. Then I mark it up again with the pen where Ive ground it. I repeated the process about 100 times, it took all day.
  4. It took me all day, but I ground my td05 to td05h, and now lots of cartridges will fit. I have another, I should have it machined to td06
  5. Somehow I managed to melt the insides of the second cat. It was seriously preventing the car from boosting, but the engine still ran ok. I also blew apart a turbo (14b). When i took the turbo off the car, It blew the oil ring into the turbine housing, and the nut was half unscrewed of the spindle. Here is a timelapse of dissassembly, and re-assembly. The turbo will work, but its been damaged enough that it wont work well. It needs a rebuild, with new bearings and wheels.
  6. LEDs are actually much lower voltage that 12v. You have to use resistors, or current limiting circuits to prevent burning them up. Stuff that is marketted for cars are usually set up for 12v, so all you have to do is hook it up right.
  7. Update: I had some wiring problems and my door lights shorted out, and took some fuses with it. I went through the electronics, and cleaned stuff up, and replaced fuses and door locks, windows, and remote start all work right again. I need to lube the passenger side window tracks and stuff so that it rolls up like the drivers side, because it rolls too slow, and the window doesnt go up all the way with the remote. This car is way faster than my car, and a lot of fun. I will miss it.
  8. Hey, 2 months ago, I had 2 non-running cars pissing me off.
  9. I fetched a hopefully good transmission, and a new bumper cover the other day, and I've looked at the transmission, and cleaned up the pan gasket, and re-sealed it. It looks good inside, so hopefully everything is OK with it. I took my 83 transmission out yesterday, and I have it ready to remove the 86 specific parts to put on the hopefully good transmission, then I will install it today. If things go well, I'll get some paint on the bumper cover, and may even get it installed, but Ill be happy to just get the trans done today.
  10. Ive been working on the TPS/ISC and I cant seem to get the idle adjusted right, and both of the TPSs ive been using seem a ltittle bit erratic. The throttle gets kind of weird, it doesnt hold the same speed, you constantly have to lift and press a tiny amount to keep the car going the same speed. Ive also found that the car idles weird as it warms up. Often after the car warms up, the idle says too high (like 1500 rpm), but not always, sometimes it flattens out to like 800. It holds at 800 while warming up most of the time too. The most annoying problem is that it loses power. You will be driving along, and the car starts slowing down, you press on the gas, and the car slows down more, you press all the way down, and it continues to slow down. Sometime when this happens, pressing all the way down makes it cough and sputter, then runs ok, sometimes it just keeps slowing down. If I shut the motor off, wait for the motor to spin down, then start it, the problem goes away for a while, but always returns later. I think disconnecting the maf makes it go away, and disconnecting the ISC probably makes the idle thing go away.
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