garychoffmann

resetting the tps has to do with the position of the tps. It's a resistor on a dial basically. You need to repostition the tps to do a reset. It's not like a computer, turning it off or unplugging it does nothing. The reason the car dies when you unplug the mas is the car is not getting an air signal, ecu doesn't know how much fuel to give.

Well, we'll know as it dries lol. It's more of a satin than a flat I would say. I added the flattener in accordance to the shop guy. Pure insanity, I'm a novice painter, I've never even had a meantor. I just decided I wanted to teach myself how to paint. I've just tried what I have "heard" about. Like chasing a run out..... that was a disaster and should only be attempted by a professional.... I'm just one of those guys who like to try everything myself. I'm going to put it in the sun today and see how it dries out completely. I know it's still gasing so maybe it will be good after it dries a while lol

he has to drive there and back so it would round out to about 750 an hour..... paint fumes.... lost touch of reality

when it's done, looks like a turd now

http://s848.photobucket.com/home/luckyone170

So I went to Richie_rich's house and got a maf from him. Looked at his other projects going on and the guy is a great guy. Sad this community is losing him. But, I was talking about painting a starion and we shared a laugh about how well received my glittery starion was received by the community. I was talking to him about painting the starion satin black as I had an area on the car I did not like. Then he says to me "wonder how metal flake would look in a flat paint" or something to that effect. So I sat on it a few days and started sanding down the starion. So I put down my black base and then did my midcoat with a fire red flake, red shimmer pearl and then a blue ghost pearl. So I move onto my clear. I get my flattening agent and talk to the guy at the shop (who I have become friends with) he told me to thin the first coat %50 and spray it from about 18 inches and fog it untill it gets "wet" so I do that and everything looked good, untill the damn clear started to dry and you can tell it's splotchy as all get out. So I go over it again with a less reduced clear. Let that dry overnight and I have a black car with white splotches all over it. I never knew how hard it would be to paint a car flat since it hides so many imperfections. Come to find out spraying a flat clear is only for the people who are really good. It's going to take me some time to get it right. Not so thrilled with my choice. Painters know any good tricks? One painter told me to mix some baby powder into the clear and I laughed, but he was serious and took a piece of metal, put some black primer on it, put some baby powder in a clear and shot it..... I'll be damned, flattest smoothest piece of metal I've seen. He did it in about 2 minutes. I told him my car is prepped and sitting at my house, how much to spray it flat. He told me it would take him about 30 minutes to shoot it and he would only charge me $500.00 What a deal..... I may have to take him up on it. LOL

hey technology, I know that we disagreed once on fuel pumps. I'm assuming that your running a walbro 255, trust me and run another walbro 255 inline. the inline holds 20 psi more than an intank and feeding it with a 255 will give you rock solid fuel pressure. trust me on this one. I know you think it's overkill but honestly it will help your FP alot. I've ran that set up for years with consistent results and making huge power. It's a 100 dollar investment for rock solid fp, just my 2 cents and not telling you how to build your car. It's just proven to work for me and a quite a few others

had a couple, my vtec fighters lol

where you add your fluid, that is connected to the master, It's not very hard to get out and is fairly easy. If you look at the fluid reservoir it dumps into the master cylinder.

pm'd

going to a +12 will actually make them fit further out, -12 will be fine, both will stick out just a hair further than stock

Paint your axles yellow and put a driveshaft shop sticker on them..... Done

I run the same manifold, this is a great deal, to have mine converted was 185.00 with a little porting. Steal for somebody

Make offer before I put it all on ebay

hmmm.... make offers, even silly ones will be considered

have to be sober by now, wish we could have argued more lol

Well your drinking and sitting on a computer... What's social about that. I guess you may have friends around but if your at the computer your not exactly "social". If no friends are around and you think drinking social is talking to people on the internet you have a drinking problem and are looking for excuses to "socially" drink. Which is it?

you always struck me as a lush,

Are they up on their shots? I wouldn't really worry about it.

oh yeah, everything is OBO, but be reasonable

First off my set of 7's and 9's. Decent tires 300 plus shipping, Could use a repaint and polish the rims. Just so you expect that, but from a couple feet they look good. http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0899.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/IMG00043-20100604-1438.jpg next is 89 steering wheel that works, ok shape 45 shipped, it's in good enough shape that dye masters said they could make it look new for 40 bucks http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0912.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0913.jpg Gauge cluster with 34,xxx miles, good shape, top ears are busted off but not a big deal 55 shipped http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0911.jpg Good 87 cluster, cut out for boost gauge 25 shipped 150,xxx miles http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0909.jpg Autometer boost gauge 25 shipped http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0908.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0904.jpg good radio 25 shipped, good seat belt computer 25 shipped, excellent condition side kick panels 35 shipped http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0905.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0908.jpg Msd Lazer Tach, awesome tach, 150 shipped, slight scratches, not all that noticeable, has alot of features, look it up if your interested http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0902.jpg New never used, heads up display gps speedometer, had one of these in my swapped rx-7 and I loved it. Projects your speed on windshield. Works on any car and lets you use your dash for other gauges. 125 shipped http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/Starion%20for%20sale/DSCN0903.jpg I also have a set of bmw x5 stock rims and tires, a set of 20's for 5x120 5x112 (bmw audi) I also have an extremely rare black leather 88 rear seets for an s4/s5 rx-7, these are the ultra rare 88 seats that only came optioned in the 88 AE rx-7. I'm sure I'll find more and add it to the list

what do you want for it? I'm interested nevermind, saw it in subtitle

I have a summit radiator. Unfortunately the frame rails had to be notched and welded for it to fit. SR is probably the way to go

Most salvage yards will not let you try and start a car (insurance reasons) Also, you don't nec, want to turn a car over that's been sitting 7 years. Doing a dry compression test with 7 year+ oil isn't something I would nec do. On rotories that used to sit for a while, I would put marvel mystery oil in the chanbers and then turn it by hand for a few days. Then If it "felt" good I would pull the spark plugs and crank it over to see what it sounded like. I'd pull the head in the junk yard. Wouldn't take all that long and you could get a better idea of what condition it's in. I would be doing it though thinking I was going to be replacing everything anyway.

well, chances are it's there for a reason. Could need an engine, tranny, electronics, injectors suspension, steering. I would not buy a car from a junkyard in hopes to get it running for transportation. It's just my opinion but with a 700 budget I don't think it would be a wise choice. I would find a car that needs work but is at least startable so you have an idea of what you need to do. Assuming that everything there is in good working order. I would figure out what is missing and work on replacing those parts. Then I would turn my attention to air/fuel/spark. You'll have to do a complete tune-up. Fuel filters, dropping the tank, injectors, lines etc. Then work your way to spark, clean/check distributor, check vac advance, ignitor, coil etc. Then work your way from the mas to the throttle bosy and look for bad hoses, clamps, lines, etc. It would be smart to rebuild the throttebody as those parts could use attention. Change oil, tranny rear-end fluids. Then try to get her to start and replace sensors/connections that are not functioning properly. Now is a good time to start on the cooling system, change your radiator hoses, thermostat and rod/clean radiator. Good luck