on3 racing Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 ok, recently put a clutch, flywheel, slave and master cyl in the car. everything was fine until a few days ago. the car shift really crappy when i first drive it. almost a grind but not quite. after i drive the car a few minutes it goes away. also a few days ago the temperature here drop quite a bit so it seem it is a temp issue. does anyone else have these problems i really dont want to spend a grand getting it rebuild i have dump quite a bit of money into the car as of late. ohh also the car always seem to shift better in boost, what gives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 When it drops below 40 or so my car does the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 when you did the clutch / flywheel did you also do the front seal on the trans? Also did you change the tranny oil to a synthetic and add friction modifier ? If you did then you probably would not be saying you are having cold transmission problems. With dino oil (especially 'straight weight') the trans will be sluggish. Best to let it get about 5-10 easy minutes to warm things up (this is good for the diff also as that oil can get thick as molassis in severe cold weather and u go thrashing on a cold tranny/diff you can end up causing damage) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on3 racing Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 no front seal, no friction modifier, no synthetic. i guess ill have to change it to some syn. it doesn't get absurdly cold here but the temp has changed quite a bit. so synthetic and friction modifier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 (edited) Royal Purple has the modifier in it and your tranny will shift like butter Edited October 22, 2009 by IntercooledFlatty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Friction modifier is for LSD clutches not for transmissions. How much total movement of the slave rod do you have? You need almost an inch. If you can't get someone to help you, put a light under the car where you can see and position a mirror so you can watch the slave rod push on the fork while you are inside pushing the clutch. You may be able to just look under the car and push the clutch pedal with your hand. If you suspect air in the system, just push the slave rod all the way in its cylinder as far as it can go then press the pedal down, you'll likely have to pull the pedal back up with your hand, repeat that several times and see if you gain travel range of the fork. If it isn't moving at least 3/4" it won't shift properly and if it only moves about 1/2" it won't shift worth a crap. Changing gear oil doesn't get the sludge out of the gearbox, you have to open it up and flush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jettajody Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 I have the same problem in 2nd and in 4th. The colder the car is the more noticable. My clutch is junk and my motor and tranny sag due to stock mounts, so I blame that........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on3 racing Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 it is only first and second, usually by the time im out of my neighborhood it is stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 that is normal when useing the factory spec gear oil in the tranny,, even here in fl shifting from 1st to 2'd is nearly imposible when you first start out driveing,, several ways arround it IF the clutch is in proper working order and the trans frt input brg is in good shape,, switch to a newer type gear oil such as mention'd or add a qt of lighter weight oil to whats already there,, of course you'l need to drain a qt out of the trans to do that with a good set of trany brgs i have found no problem with adding a qt of ATF to the tranny but that may not be the best for every one and every tranny , it is absolutely nessarry for the trans to be full of gear oil at all times or swift damage will result Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on3 racing Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 that is normal when useing the factory spec gear oil in the tranny,, even here in fl shifting from 1st to 2'd is nearly imposible when you first start out driveing,, several ways arround it IF the clutch is in proper working order and the trans frt input brg is in good shape,, switch to a newer type gear oil such as mention'd or add a qt of lighter weight oil to whats already there,, of course you'l need to drain a qt out of the trans to do that with a good set of trany brgs i have found no problem with adding a qt of ATF to the tranny but that may not be the best for every one and every tranny , it is absolutely nessarry for the trans to be full of gear oil at all times or swift damage will result a trans guy told me to add a quart of 30 weight oil to the trans. i think im just gonna drain it and put the lighter weight syn with extra friction modifier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 manual trannys have use'd ATF, motor oil and gear oil , the big block mopars use'd ATF in their 4 spd trans and they held up very well,,Maza use'd motor oil in theirs,, the thing is the tranny brgs have to be in good shape no matter what oil you use no lubricant is gona replace a worn brg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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