pc85 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 I haven't heard of them but that's not saying too much, a lot of guys over here use megasquirt more of a DIY management system. I wanted an ECU that could be tuned at any performance shop and better recognized mainstream. With the wiring harness already installed and re-wired, I'll have to stick with Haltech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Good your getting that resolved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Quick update, Haltech is back, car was tuned again, now they're telling me that an "idle air control unit" was never installed. After that's installed, the Haltech should be able to control air flow at all conditions. Does this make sense to anybody? Idle air control unit? Hm, not sure what to make from all this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Yup, makes sense. If there isn't some sort of controllable valve to allow air to by-pass the throttle, the ECU cannot control the idle speed. The amount or air which needs to be passed varies quite a bit depending on temperature and atmospheric pressure. The factory TBI setup uses a motor which actuates a plunger which rotates the throttle valve slightly. Is there is no provision for idle control on your throttlebody, you want one of these:http://socalmotorsport.com/images/eBay/bmw_idlecontrolvalve_713.jpgCommon as on BMW's and many European cars. I really don't know my American cars, but very possible they're used on them as well. The 3 wire ones use two opposing PWM signals from the ECU to determine the valve position. They're better than the two wire ones which use one PWM signal working against a spring. The 3 wires ones respond faster and are usually more stable (no overshoot, better position control, etc). Different vehicle manufacturers do idle control in different ways... I like the factory Mitsy throttlebodies that have an idle control circuit and valve built into the throttlebody. The valve is a stepper motor, so it does require four ecu outputs to drive it though.. But if you've got the outputs, they're a great way to go, very accurate and quick to respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Awesome, thanks for the info Zacman. Should be getting her back next month then I'll see how she runs and decide what to do with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Definetly turning into the restoration from HECK. Got the Haltech back after 2 months down under, replaced the idle air control unit (missed detail during engine rebuild), got it back on the dyno for final tunning and major oil leak from the oil cooler lines. Apparently the SS lines put in were not high pressure lines and failed miserably under high demands on the dyno as did the gaskets on the downpipe and dumptube. So back to the drawing board, new oil lines to replace the "brand new" oil lines and new gaskets to replace the previous "new gaskets". I guess the sayings are true: "you want something done right do it yourself" but if you can't "don't send a boy to do a man's job". At least now she's in the hands of a professional shop and hopefully after all the kinks are worked out I'll be able to drive to the junk yard LOL where i should have laid her to rest 9 years ago before I ever got started with this headache. Edited April 11, 2013 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 well dont be like some people out there that put all this time andwork in to their cars get it to run perfectly then decide to sell it.i hope you get it dialed and get to enjoy it for years to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Sorry to here you are still having trouble. I have also found that aftermarket lines suck and use oem where possible. But with modded cars some times stock lines do not work anymore. The factory used metal tubes close to the engine and turbo. Metal can withstand the heat, rubber can't. Be it the hose inside the ss braid or the o-rings in swivel fittings. A hose should have crimped on ends, not threaded on ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Sorry to here you are still having trouble. I have also found that aftermarket lines suck and use oem where possible. But with modded cars some times stock lines do not work anymore. The factory used metal tubes close to the engine and turbo. Metal can withstand the heat, rubber can't. Be it the hose inside the ss braid or the o-rings in swivel fittings. A hose should have crimped on ends, not threaded on ends. Yeah the rubber hoses inside were not high pressure lines, they were disintegrating from heat and pressure. One was leaking from within the braided SS so they pressure tested it and the guy said he got soaked from all the liquid leaking through the hose. Also they were threading fittings not crimped, go figure. I had to replace the factory lines because on a flatty the stock lines run right where the IC pipes pass through the radiator support, guess I could have swapped the lines for the hard lines from a wide body. That'll be plan C if these new ones don't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) well dont be like some people out there that put all this time andwork in to their cars get it to run perfectly then decide to sell it.i hope you get it dialed and get to enjoy it for years to come. Already been thinking of selling it, project started 9 years ago with paint/seats/chasis and brakes, thought I had the engine/mechanicals taken care of but finding out the hard way; not soo much. So after 9 years and you have no idea how many $K I've sunk into this project, at some point you have to stop the bleeding. Edited April 11, 2013 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Joe i feel your pain. Had mine all dialed in for a fresh dyno. I went and filled up with fuel. Went 3 miles and the slave cylinder went out. Drove home with no way to disengage the clutch. Hit every light red. All 5 of them plus the stop signs. On top of that the brakes went out on my pickup yesterday. I tear into it and the part jokey gave me a right when i needed a left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Sorry to hear about that, when it rains it pours. Anyway, I hope to get her back soon then we can hang out and solve the worlds problems. God luck with your woes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Aw man... sorry to hear of your troubles. I hope you get things figured out so you can at least enjoy it for a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Ditto, time is running out. Pretty soon there won't be many SQs around and when they are gone so are the parts to keep the few alive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Finally got her tuned and kinks worked out except the fuel sending unit. Gas gauge is eradic, stays on full until 1/8 of a tank then drops to empty? How involved is it to replace or fix? Any insight would be greatly appreciated, if I can do this myself and get the car back home sooner that would be awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Remove all the guff from your trunk, and there is an inspection panel glued down in middle of the spare wheel well. You can (according to the FSM) get the sendout unit out through that, although when I did mine I dropper the whole tank, as I didn't know the inspection panel was there! Anyway, once you get the sender unit out, it's got a metal covers over the variable resistor, bend the metal tabs back to reveal the inside: http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx141/ProZac83/Starion%20Project/P2160212.jpg The coil of the variable resistor will probably require a careful clean up, if the tank hasn't been full for a very long time, it'll be a bit corroded. I used a fine brass brush and light pressure. Clean everything up, and make sure it's all making good electrical contact through it's range of motion, should solve your issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 The shop got the sending unit out and found that one of the rods was bent and wanting to stay in "full" position so hopefully it will just be a little tweak and she'll be all done!!! If not, I'll bring her home and swap out a unit here with StarquestRescue. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 This will probably be my last post as I don't think I will be picking up the car from Mt. Airy Motors in Md. I took it down for tuning in October because supposedly they had experience with these cars and worked with Haltech. I had some stalling/hesitation issues but at least it would turn on and would run OK. After 7 months in the hands of this incompetent bozo, re-wirng the ECU, changing every possible electrical component, adding things it didn't even need and running up a bill for over $5,500, I went to pick it up yesterday it smoked when I turned the ignition, started up real rough and was making a new rattling sound while idling. We turned it off and when I went to start it again, same smoke as soon as I turned the ignition but she wouldn't turn over. The first time I started it and the second time I tried to start it, there was also a rough grinding sound like the starter motor wasn't engaging.The dilemma: I have zero confidence that this clown knows what he's doing and doubt the car will ever be reliable at this point. Do I let him keep working on it, hoping I can get it home without it breaking down and pay him for the repairs or do I just let her RIP, wash my hands and kiss her good-bye and save the $5,500. If I paid to pick her up and parted it out, I doubt I would break even with the repair bill. Its a Flatty, rims are 4 lug and the Tokico coil overs won't fit a wide body. There are tons of parts I could strip from the engine and exhaust but I will never get back what they're worth. I would have to get back $6-$7K in parts to make it worth all the hassle: NOT. So unless something miraculous happens this is it for my long frustrating journey. Newbies, CAUTION; if you can't work on these cars on your own and have to rely on anybody else to do your restoration; Forget about it !!! These cars are DIY only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 Sorry for the bad news. i hate to see her go but sometimes your better off.i say keep the 5500. you could buy a mint quest for less. do you know anyonethat knows anything about haltech and could take a look at the setup for you.like a second set of eyes to look over the settings and see if there might besomething wrong with the setup or settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 SRT (Swift Racing Technologies). They sold me the Haltech. I was going to take it there originally but he lost his mechanic, was really backed up with work and couldn't take the car when I wanted so this other shop was recommended. I probably will have to call him as a second pair of eyes/opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 These guys must be absolute, complete, 100% MUPPETS. Seriously. Aftermarket ECU's just aren't that hard! It's usually easier to get one working nicely than diagnosing and fixing up the stock systems! Additionally, the factory wiring on starions is also pretty damn basic, there is a wealth of information available for figuring that side of things out. The earlier flatties, like ours, are even more basic yet, if they have any experience with 80's/90's cars, it should be cake to get things working nicely. Where was the smoke coming from? If there was smoke when the car wasn't running, they've done something pretty farging stupid, as it'll be electrical. The starting system on these cars is as basic as it ever gets... For them to f*** it up is pretty much unforgivable. It is possible that your starter has coincidentally just given up the ghost at this exact time... but I don't like those odds. I really feel for you mate, much flatty love going out to you. If I was on that side of the world, I'd be there in a snap to spend a couple of days having a poke around and sorting it out. $5500 is also a stupendous bill for getting a car back that doesn't even start? I work at a tuning shop here in New Zealand, and that s*** just doesn't fly! A car would never, EVER be allowed to leave the shop in a worse state than when it arrived, let alone for that sort of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 I just PMed StarquestRescue about the smoke. Its coming from where they installed the MAP sensor and it was definately electrical, probably shorting out. And no way I'm paying that bill the way the car is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 mad thats so sad. I hate reading stuff like this. You better not give them a dime. Total bs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 f that.. repo the car from them and take it home.. sounds like they done more harm than good.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 GO get the car pc85 and get that rectified don't pay that tab you should be getting paid for that drama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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