Yes another 2JZGTE

[serpentkilla]

nice man, nice. What brand are the other gauges(3 in the center)? I've been looking at prosports lately cause they're kinda cheap and still what I want.. Its those or autometers for me... Defi's would be the first option if I was loaded...

 

The 3 in the center are spek gauges from www.propartsllc.com Yeah defi's are noice but damn expensive. I really like the spek gauges especially the temp, i have it set at 210 degrees. so it turns the fans on 10 deg out. it also will flash red if it goes over your set limit. I had it set at 195 but my damn heat was not hot enough so i had to crank it up to keep the fan of longer. It still stays around 190.

[AzStar]

The 3 in the center are spek gauges from www.propartsllc.com Yeah defi's are noice but damn expensive. I really like the spek gauges especially the temp, i have it set at 210 degrees. so it turns the fans on 10 deg out. it also will flash red if it goes over your set limit. I had it set at 195 but my damn heat was not hot enough so i had to crank it up to keep the fan of longer. It still stays around 190.

 

I went to the site and those Spek gauges are pretty pricey as well... (sigh) Sure have some nice looking ones tho.

[jason c]

hey guys just have to say thanks for all the info on this build ive been thinking of the 2j im my next quest for awile now, and after reading its a no brainer lol but only thing, has anyone stuffed the getrag 6speed in the quest? i figured if we can get a t56 in one with some hammering the supra 6speed can be done, any info

[serpentkilla]

hey guys just have to say thanks for all the info on this build ive been thinking of the 2j im my next quest for awile now, and after reading its a no brainer lol but only thing, has anyone stuffed the getrag 6speed in the quest? i figured if we can get a t56 in one with some hammering the supra 6speed can be done, any info

 

The 6spd is just to expensive, but it should fit no prob.

[jason c]

The 6spd is just to expensive, but it should fit no prob.

I WAS DOING SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THERES SOME KITS TO ADAPT THE T56 TO THE 2JZ, WHICH IS NICE SINCE U CAN FIND T56'S AT GOOD PRICES AND PLENTY OF THEM IN SALVAGES

[redecocav]

Dumb question, but will the JDM engine pass smog?

[Laodicea]

Dumb question, but will the JDM engine pass smog?

It should with a new CAT

[serpentkilla]

Dumb question, but will the JDM engine pass smog?

 

Are u in GA or AL? i know here in PA anything 95 and older they dont check for that. newer cars they just plug a scanner up to it. They just want to make sure everything works. I have a fake cat. Do they use the treadmill like MD?

[redecocav]

Right now I am in GA, no emissions, but once I get back from Iraq I am getting stationed outside Seattle, WA.

[serpentkilla]

How long will you be in WA, since your in the military cant u just keep the GA tags?

[redecocav]

Ha I forgot about that! I will prolly be WA for a couple years.

[redecocav]

Ok so I have been looking around and found some good pricing on some stuff and I have decided to do this swap once I get back from Iraq.

 

Just to make sure I am right this is what I will need....

 

Front sump 2jzgte swap (engine, trans, ecu, harness, etc.)

 

Radiator and hoses (found the ones you used on Ebay)

 

FMIC + piping + BOV (not needed but want)

 

Custom Driveshaft

 

Mount adapters (engine + tranny)

 

Fuel pump (walbro)

 

misc hoses (fuel, clutch, etc)

 

New gauges

 

 

Anything I am missing?

Edited April 4, 2010 by redecocav

[AzStar]

Ok so I have been looking around and found some good pricing on some stuff and I have decided to do this swap once I get back from Iraq.

 

Just to make sure I am right this is what I will need....

 

Front sump 2jzgte swap (engine, trans, ecu, harness, etc.)

 

Radiator and hoses (found the ones you used on Ebay)

 

FMIC + piping + BOV (not needed but want)

 

Custom Driveshaft

 

Mount adapters (engine + tranny)

 

Fuel pump (walbro)

 

misc hoses (fuel, clutch, etc)

 

New gauges

 

 

Anything I am missing?

 

Since I am just getting going on this swap myself, engine sitting on the floor, parts gathering as we speak.

 

Couple things I've encountered. Some of the engine/trans combos come with a MAP sensor and others don't. So make sure you know what you are or aren't getting. Otherwise you will be looking to buy a MAP sensor.

 

Some have cut wiring harnesses some don't. Uncut seems to be prefered, I assume it keeps the wiring resistance consistent. However an uncut harness will dictate where you can put the ECM in the car vice putting it where you want and then doing wiring to make it fit there (with a cut harness).

 

There are two connectors on the ECM. One is the main engine harness connection and the other connects to the donor car's wiring under the dash. The under dash connector is called the E10 connector. My engine (from what I can understand many others) didn't have the E10 connector with it. I've sourced one but it will be $30 for that connector and pigtail. I'm told this connector is needed to bring power etc into the ECM. I haven't gotten to that level of my swap yet.

 

If you are going with an Automatic (which my car is an Auto) the driveshaft connection is the damndest thing. One half of the connection at the transmission actually bolts to the transmission tail shaft. Then there is this rubber donut that sandwiches between it and the corresponding connection on the drive shaft. Again, mine came with the trans half but not the drive shaft. I've sourced a drive shaft for $100 to get that connection. I also know of an aftermarket adaptor that allows the use of "normal" driveline U-joints for around $150.

 

My vendor "requires" the water pump and timing belt be changed or the "warranty" is void. I won't make the 30 day engine startup timeline anyway so the warranty is a moot point. I am however going to change timing belt and water pump and cam cover gasket. The water pump is another "damndest" things. The fan system in the vendor car was driven by, from what I can tell, water from the pump. So there is an extra small hose that comes off the pump and would head to the fan. Of course all hoses on these engines that lead anywhere off the motor (fuel, radiator, fans, power steering) as well as any electrical connections (battery, ground) are cut. They don't spend much time getting them out of the donor cars.

 

Finally, I have several bad connectors that go to the Coil on Plug (COP). I've sourced them and they are $14 ea. I am looking for a cheaper source at the moment.

 

Drop me an email and I can send some pictures of what I have and we can exchange notes as I move (albeit slowly) forward. When do you get back from theater?

Edited April 4, 2010 by AzStar

[redecocav]

Since I am just getting going on this swap myself, engine sitting on the floor, parts gathering as we speak.

 

Couple things I've encountered. Some of the engine/trans combos come with a MAP sensor and others don't. So make sure you know what you are or aren't getting. Otherwise you will be looking to buy a MAP sensor.

 

Some have cut wiring harnesses some don't. Uncut seems to be prefered, I assume it keeps the wiring resistance consistent. However an uncut harness will dictate where you can put the ECM in the car vice putting it where you want and then doing wiring to make it fit there (with a cut harness).

 

There are two connectors on the ECM. One is the main engine harness connection and the other connects to the donor car's wiring under the dash. The under dash connector is called the E10 connector. My engine (from what I can understand many others) didn't have the E10 connector with it. I've sourced one but it will be $30 for that connector and pigtail. I'm told this connector is needed to bring power etc into the ECM. I haven't gotten to that level of my swap yet.

 

If you are going with an Automatic (which my car is an Auto) the driveshaft connection is the damndest thing. One half of the connection at the transmission actually bolts to the transmission tail shaft. Then there is this rubber donut that sandwiches between it and the corresponding connection on the drive shaft. Again, mine came with the trans half but not the drive shaft. I've sourced a drive shaft for $100 to get that connection. I also know of an aftermarket adaptor that allows the use of "normal" driveline U-joints for around $150.

 

My vendor "requires" the water pump and timing belt be changed or the "warranty" is void. I won't make the 30 day engine startup timeline anyway so the warranty is a moot point. I am however going to change timing belt and water pump and cam cover gasket. The water pump is another "damndest" things. The fan system in the vendor car was driven by, from what I can tell, water from the pump. So there is an extra small hose that comes off the pump and would head to the fan. Of course all hoses on these engines that lead anywhere off the motor (fuel, radiator, fans, power steering) as well as any electrical connections (battery, ground) are cut. They don't spend much time getting them out of the donor cars.

 

Finally, I have several bad connectors that go to the Coil on Plug (COP). I've sourced them and they are $14 ea. I am looking for a cheaper source at the moment.

 

Drop me an email and I can send some pictures of what I have and we can exchange notes as I move (albeit slowly) forward. When do you get back from theater?

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on some of this stuff! Yeah I was thinking of going ahead and doing the timing belt, water pump, etc. Was even thinking about going ahead and doing the head gasket too. Dunno though, I will figure that out when I get back.

 

I thought about doing an automatic too (so my wife can drive it) but I don't know if the auto will fit under our 5spd car without a lot of beating.

 

I am taking R&R in June (might go ahead and start collecting) but don't actually redeploy back to the states until around Dec.

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Serpent I have a question..

 

the power steering line (crap that it is) is giving me hell to put back where on the 2j is the power steering pump? I was thinking about cutting the line flaring it and then using transmition hose so that I screw it down where ever It needs to go/

[serpentkilla]

Ok so I have been looking around and found some good pricing on some stuff and I have decided to do this swap once I get back from Iraq.

 

Just to make sure I am right this is what I will need....

 

Front sump 2jzgte swap (engine, trans, ecu, harness, etc.)

 

Radiator and hoses (found the ones you used on Ebay)

 

FMIC + piping + BOV (not needed but want)

 

Custom Driveshaft

 

Mount adapters (engine + tranny)

 

Fuel pump (walbro)

 

misc hoses (fuel, clutch, etc)

 

New gauges

 

 

Anything I am missing?

 

 

Yup.... alot of patience. it seems like you have everything covered. Just make sure u have the E10 harness, they usually dont send them with it but if you ask nicely they will.

[serpentkilla]

Serpent I have a question..

 

the power steering line (crap that it is) is giving me hell to put back where on the 2j is the power steering pump? I was thinking about cutting the line flaring it and then using transmition hose so that I screw it down where ever It needs to go/

 

 

I used an a/n fitting in the pump and steering box and got the hi pressure line made up. You will need some type of cooler for the p/s. i used the oil cooler. I works like a charm. i used the stock resevoir and mounted on the drivers side inner fender. the low pressure side from the steering box to one side of the oil cooler ( i have the restricter pills in) then the other side going to the resevoir.

[AzStar]

What made you decide to use a Power Steering Cooler?

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

ok thanks Serpent. A cooler you say huh mm my 89 has a tranny cooler that I was trying to figure out what to do with.

[serpentkilla]

What made you decide to use a Power Steering Cooler?

 

During the winter months it was all good, as soon as it started to get warm that fluid did as well. It use to get really really hot.

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Serpent, Im still saving for the motor and tranny. Im a lil nervous because ive seen the price jump over the last month. Is the guys price we talked about still the same?

 

also is there much difference between the lexus 2j and the supra sombody told me that a non turbo motor will react badly to boost.

[Laodicea]

Serpent, Im still saving for the motor and tranny. Im a lil nervous because ive seen the price jump over the last month. Is the guys price we talked about still the same?

 

also is there much difference between the lexus 2j and the supra sombody told me that a non turbo motor will react badly to boost.

 

That is because the non-turbo is 10:1 compression ratio. I am using the non-turbo motor but I made it a turbo motor by replacing the pistons for the turbo pistons and turbo head gasket. The only other difference is the oil squirters missing and it has a dizzy instead of coil pack and the port design of the head....the GE is way cheaper than GTE. With my setup I have to use the dizzy and can use everything GE and be the exact same as the turbo engine internally for being able to hold the HP. That is why I paid $200 for the engine...rather than $1700+ for GTE.

Edited April 16, 2010 by Laodicea

[serpentkilla]

Serpent, Im still saving for the motor and tranny. Im a lil nervous because ive seen the price jump over the last month. Is the guys price we talked about still the same?

 

also is there much difference between the lexus 2j and the supra sombody told me that a non turbo motor will react badly to boost.

 

 

Yeah prices are back on the rise. Last year there was a 2jzgte with an r154 for 2300 shipped now there 3300. I got the other motor sitting on the floor picked it up on tuesday. Just need a few more things to get started. Im gonna knock this one out in 3 days minus the drive shafthttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif .

 

His price did go up big time

[autoxer]

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!

 

Just wanted to let everybody know I am up and running with an auto 2jz and many thanks to Serpentkilla for all the help

and for giving me the motovation to start this project.

Also here are some helpful part numbers you may need if your going to do the swap.

They are for connectors and terminal leads

 

Coil Packs

90980-11246 Housing, List 6.61 Cost 5.04 Ea X 6

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

Injectors

90980-11153 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07 Ea X 6

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

Map sensor

90980-10845 Housing, List 7.20 Cost 5.50

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 3

Cam/crank Sensor

90980-10947 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07 Ea X 3

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 9

Iac

90980-11144 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 6

Efi Temp

90980-11062 Housing, List 7.93 Cost 6.06

82998-12620 Terminal, List 23.61 Cost 18.02 Ea X 2

Water Temp

90980-11428 Housing, List 6.60 Cost 5.04

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56

Ignitor

90980-11151 Housing, List 9.75 Cost 7.44

82998-12440 Terminal List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 12

90980-11152 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Alt

90980-11349 Housing, List 7.93 Cost 6.06

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Knock

90980-11166 Housing, List 6.60 Cost 5.04 Ea X 2

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Tps

90980-10711 Housing, List 14.42 Cost 11.01

82998-12620 Terminal, List 23.61 Cost 18.02 Ea X 4

02 sensor

90980-11028 Housing, List 7.95 Cost 6.07

82998-12440 Terminal, List 5.98 Cost 4.56 Ea X 4

Resistor pack

90980-10896 Housing Male List 9.75 Cost 7.44 [engine side ]

82998-12430 Terminal List 5.98 Cost 4.56 ea x 7

90980-10897 Housing Female List 9.75 Cost 7.44 [harness side ]

82998-12440 Terminal List 5.98 Csot 4.56 ea x 7

 

I am still tweaking but I think its going to be worth it.

Thanks again Serpentkilla,

James

[A.Wilder]

damn, that looks clean.