vbrad511 Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 I'm gonna fire up the stereo in the car this week and I'm looking for an out of sight, out of the way place to mount the two amps. I had them under the seats last time, but would kinda like that left open. I'm not a big fan of having them visible in the hatch are either though, so anybody have any other place I might hide them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 mounted them under the false floor by the spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 mounted them under the false floor by the spare. I haven't been in that hatch that deep lately, but isn't there only about an inch of clearance in there. I'm not sure my amps are thin enough to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 in the rear hatch area you can pull up the false floor and take out the metal floor on either side. This is where the ABS CPU is and such. Plenty of room under there. Or just put em in the hatch area and get an original hatch cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Why not make your box to hide the subs and amp. IE top of box solid or maybe a port or two out of it. Subs under facing down or inside bandpass or double sealed ported? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 take the hatch area sides off...you be surprised how much room is back there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdam Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) Yes...install under the false floor...remove the metal pices in the trunk...make a new bottom plate....amps installed on top of plate, and a new top floor plate..like in mi first pic...there the amps under the floor is invisible. or in the back of the rearseats.... these are the ways I did it.... :sweatingitout: PICS HERE..vvvv.... AMP INSTALL Edited August 5, 2009 by hdam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Depending on how far you want to run lines, there's quite a bit of space on the carpeted side pieces between them and the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 hdan, That's a nice install on the free air setup. Leaves you a totaly usable trunk still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 False floor it is (nice setup BTW hdam). Next....what's the best route for the power wire? It's Scosche 8ga. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 What are you pushing? 8ga is kinda small IMHO if you were struggling for space for your install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 What are you pushing? 8ga is kinda small IMHO if you were struggling for space for your install. Small...lol. Just a couple 10's I've got in a box that was in my 87 a few years back. It's loud enough for me, and i have no desire to rattle neighborhood windows from 2 blocks away. I can send you pics of the setup if you get me your email addy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 In the glove box? I had 2 punch 150's in there back in the day fit well too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Small...lol. Just a couple 10's I've got in a box that was in my 87 a few years back. It's loud enough for me, and i have no desire to rattle neighborhood windows from 2 blocks away. I can send you pics of the setup if you get me your email addy. I was more curious about power your pushing. What is the RMS rating for the amp and how do you have it configured IE series parelell and to # and setup of subs DVC SVC and resistance of each sub. You can have 1 DVC 10 that will rattle windows and suck more power then 8 gage wire can handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkcaraudio Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 I was more curious about power your pushing. What is the RMS rating for the amp and how do you have it configured IE series parelell and to # and setup of subs DVC SVC and resistance of each sub. You can have 1 DVC 10 that will rattle windows and suck more power then 8 gage wire can handle. Well depends on the 8 gauge wire. Schoshe 8 gauge is like 10 gauge the rubber coating is thicker than real 8 gauge. Rockford or Kicker or Tsuami(how ever spelled) is real 8 gauge... I had 2500.1 Brutus amp on a rockford 8 gauge kit with a 15" DVC Audiobahn 3000 watt RMS and 6000 Peak and yes it would take the 2500 @ 1 ohm all day long. That wire never once got hot. Took 2nd place in Modified 3 @ a mecca comp last month so cant be too bad. oh yea and I am the owner of a car audio install business Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 (edited) Well depends on the 8 gauge wire. Schoshe 8 gauge is like 10 gauge the rubber coating is thicker than real 8 gauge. Rockford or Kicker or Tsuami(how ever spelled) is real 8 gauge... I had 2500.1 Brutus amp on a rockford 8 gauge kit with a 15" DVC Audiobahn 3000 watt RMS and 6000 Peak and yes it would take the 2500 @ 1 ohm all day long. That wire never once got hot. Took 2nd place in Modified 3 @ a mecca comp last month so cant be too bad. oh yea and I am the owner of a car audio install business You might have gotten first if you had 4ga. Hell the ground wire for the Brutus should probably be bigger than 8ga LOL. I don't think all my amps suck the juice that Brutus does and I'm about to be running 4ga ground wire- power wire is 2/0 ga. That Brutus needs lots of juice, especially running 1 ohm, although I'm not sure how you have it wired to get that unless your DVC's are wired paralell and then bridged on the amp. You'll be much happier with the sound just stepping up to 4ga. I have my own audio shop too, well actually, audio, body, custom paint, tint, etc.. and I know how we always spend the time to do our customer's cars right but then take the cheap way on our own cars or use the wrong stuff because it's left over from another job and will work "good enough". I'm guilty of it myself. I was running my 2/0 power wire back to my amps but using 8ga for the grounds. Mostly because I didn't have the xtra cash after finishing the system to spring for it. System sounded pretty good on just the 8ga grounds, but I'm sure it's going to sound way better now. I ran in the MECA (not mecca) series too, as well as a couple IASCA sponsored events, mostly DB drags but won my class every time. A first place trophy sitting at your shop will look much better to a potential customer than a 2nd place one. And upping your wire size may make the difference between the two. Edited August 12, 2009 by Burton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkcaraudio Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 yes I know it would but I was tryin to run a Amature street and tried to follow the rules and got thrown into M3 because of my power/fusing lol. But hey It will be better off this round 0/1 Gauge Kicker hyperflex with 2 of the brutus And yes for the record MECA not MECCA i was tired and typin fast sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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