Funky Phil Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 THIS NOT MY INFO THAT WHICH OTHERS BEFORE ME HAVE THROWN TOGETHER. IM BOUT TO DO IT BUT WITH THE MOTOR APART. WITH MORE AND MORE MOTORS CONVERTING TO COMPUTER CONTROLLED IGNITION THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS IS BECOMING HIGHER ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE SEEKING HIGH HP. TOOLS NEEDED PISTON STOP BOLT DIAL CALIPER CALIPER MOUNT DEGREE WHEEL (I read a good suggestion for using the non AC alternator bracket for the base) HELPFUL LINKS THANKS TO INDIANA G54B DEGREEING A TOYOTA 22R BIG FAT TRUCKER PROPS TO SHELBY/BOOSTED_ONE/TIM_C/INDIANA Ill be doing this within the next week. I will update with my findings. phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 Nice. I studied the same 22r guide. ... haven't done mine yet though... haha. Trucker props FTW. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 I hope it all goes well for you. Here's a picture of my setup. I found an old speaker with a doughnut shaped magnet. I removed the magnet and split it in half. I rest the magnet on top of the retainer so the indicator has a flat surface to sit on. http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5350/dscf0052cd7.th.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 It looks like you did yours during a build up. Can you give details on how you degreed yours? I would think itd be easier. Did you have to use a degree wheel or was it basically the same as any will be? Was the cam off? If so by how much?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 I swapped cams out a few weeks ago, I put a paper clip on top in the center of the cam gear to mark a spot and not hop any teeth, put the new one in and put it all back together.. Didn't really work, uhh car ran bad for a few till I had the timing done then it ran much better, cam degree can't be fixed by seting the timing can it.. :confused0024: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 No, ignition timing is ignition timing, it's seperate from cam timing, although you will have to fix the timing if you move the cam. I'm interested in this as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 (edited) It looks like you did yours during a build up. Can you give details on how you degreed yours? I would think itd be easier. Did you have to use a degree wheel or was it basically the same as any will be? Was the cam off? If so by how much?? It was a long time ago. http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5651/dscf0046op8.th.jpg This is a degree wheel I made. I have an engineering plotter. I made a picture with 360 degrees of tick marks and plotted it out. I used spray adhesive to attach it to a piece of plexiglass I had laying around. If I didn't have my plotter, I would have bought a real degree wheel. I was checking the cam to make sure it was correct to the crank per specs along with checking to make sure it was made properly. I wasn't sure it was a stock cam......It was. I think the cam was off maybe 1 degree. I have my deck milled over .027". I run .007" deck height. I was worried the cam was out too much. Doing the math, I verified my concerns were unfounded. Using the diameter of the cam gear along with what I milled figures to less than a degree. Basically, your engine needs to be assembled and ready to go. If you have mechanical adjust rockers, zero them out with no lash. If you have hydraulic, put in some mechanical ones or figure out a way so the lifter doesn't compress. I took an old lifter apart and put a piece of a ground down nut in there. What you are trying to do is make sure the cam timing is per spec. It's been so long, I can't remember what all I did. Once you figure out when your valve opens and closes in relation to the crank, you can use that to compare to the specs. I'd have to go back through all this again, but maybe if you identify the center point of the valve duration and relate that back to specs, it won't matter if zero the lash or prevent the lifter from collapsing. Someone that has done this recently can hopefully comment. Here is what I use to find TDC. It's a bit overkill, but I don't like using stops or rotating my engine backwards. http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9462/dscf0049tq0.th.jpg The indicator with the extension and wheel are mounted so it sticks through the spark plug hole and indicates the top of the piston. http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/2935/dscf0048nb1.th.jpghttp://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8196/dscf0047vz5.th.jpg Edited July 9, 2009 by Richie_Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 For what it's worth, When I degreed my cam last winter I ended up already almost dead on with the cam card specs without adjusting anything. Block was decked .010, Marnal head, Schneider 284-H, Pagemo cam gear. I ended up advancing it 2ish degrees just to allow for chain stretch over time. Hydraulic lifter make the job a serious PITA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Here is a link for the 4g63. It does seem to help reading write ups from different people. They also talk about how to modify a lifter so it does not compress. http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/4g63-camshaft-degreeing.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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