HurleyTSi Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 This is the 2nd time I've ran into a flooding issue. However it may not be flooding. Once the car sits a while it becomes difficult to start. Much like when it flooded this last winter. Pulled the plugs and 1-3 were wet. Put in some new ones and she atarted right up. Drove it again let it sit for a while then wouldn't start. :confused0024: Pulled the plugs again. They weren't really wet but they werent very pretty either. I tried starting it with the accelerator pressed all the way down. Nothing. Put it in first and as I was cranking it I lifted the clutch pedal and let it stall. Turned the key again and it started up. Hmmmm I think that instead of flooding I may be getting insufficient spark. The plugs and wires are new. So next would be the distributor cap? Correct? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 mine was all goofy too with my plugs I just said screw it and got a Jacobs Electronics ignition...havn't had an issue since Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 How much do those go for or do you have a link to where they can be purchase from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I got mine from Ebay for $50.... Heres one about to end for the same price http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/jacobs-elec...A1%7C240%3A1318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlattopMike Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I kept having the same issue until my 3rd set of plug wires. The good expensive ones had problems. I put in a cheap set and it's been fine. It also could be a leaking injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Hows your CTS might want to check that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Tried another set of plugs and wires. Still nothing. Wont start at all. Tried to idle for a second then died. Plugs still all wet. :hangman: I kept having the same issue until my 3rd set of plug wires. The good expensive ones had problems. I put in a cheap set and it's been fine. It also could be a leaking injector. Whats the easiest way to diagnos this? Hows your CTS might want to check that CTS = Coolant Temp Sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83starionT Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Is it fuel that is wetting the plugs down, or is it coolant from somehwere??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 there are 3 coolant temp sensors. one above the Tstat, one below and one in the intake pointing up. The one point up (two prong) is the one the goes to the ecu. The other two are for temp gauge and ac. If your coolant temp sensor is messed up the car could think its colder than it really is and dump extra fuel. You could always try unhooking your ISC(idle speed control) servo on the tb and see how the car starts. If the ecu is dumping extra fuel plus the isc trying to kick the idle up it may be causing problems. Also if your tps setting is incorrect(ie not .45v at idle) the car could think the throttle is open and sucking X amount of air when its really closed, so it dumps more fuel. I would start by checking your tps voltage and doing a tps/isc reset( which may be a little tough to get right if the car wont idle long enough to warm up. If you remove the OVC pipe(over valve cover) you can look down into the throttle body mixer and see the bottom of the injectors. You should be able to tell if they are leaking. You could also put a fuel pressure gauge(hex port on the back of the mixing body between injectors facing firewall) and see if the fuel pressure drops after the car is shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Are your inj clips plugged in right if you get the primary and secondary clips switched that will soak your plugs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Are your inj clips plugged in right if you get the primary and secondary clips switched that will soak your plugs... All '83 - '86 are sequential and it really doesn't matter which one is hooked to where. I'm thinking along the lines of a dirty/sticking injector too. When you get it started, take for a good drive, like at least 30 minutes. Let it idle for a while first too. If that helps, then you really should get them cleaned professionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 It's definitely fuel thats wetting the plugs. Seems to be getting A LOT of fuel. I'm also thinking its a leaky injector due to my rough idle (sounds like its on 3 cylinders) and poor throttle response. Running a bit rich maybe? I think so. Is there a way to disable the fuel pump (ie relay/fuse) on these cars thats pretty accessible? I think I may need to try and get the fuel inside the cylinders out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Well, the pump only works for 3 - 4 seconds when the key is turned to the start position. It continues to work after it starts. Remove the plugs and crank it. Be advised the fuel will stream out of the hole and go all the way across the garage/shop! Our injectors stick open when varnished inside. They don't like to close all the way during operation too. Yes, the car will idle bad and fall on its face under boost from being too rich. Worn out injectors can do it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 83-86 fuel systems foul out easier because both injectors fire back and forth and they are larger than the 87+ primary injector. Time to have them cleaned or at least try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 To disable the fuel pump: 1: Pop the rear hatch, lift the carpet & false floor. 2: On the driver side of the "real" floor you'll see a black metal plate covering an access panel; remove the one screw and pry up the plate. It has sealant goop holding it down... 3: You'll see some fuel & vapor hoses and the wires to the fuel pump. There should be a wire connector clipped to the top of the fuel tank at the back edge of the access hole. Undo that... you've just disabled the fuel pump. Nothing else is disabled. Pulling fuses, ECUs, or the ECI fusible link kills more than just the pump. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Took the plugs out. Wiped them off a bit. But before I installed them I cranked it over. Did notice any fuel spraying though.....put it all back together. Got it started took and it for a spirited drive after I let it idle for about 5-7 mins. Once I got back I shut it off to see if it wouldn't start again. It started. Drove it again. Came back. Turned it off. Tried it again for a third time.....and started. Its weird. But for another question do they still sell the screws that hold the FPR on individually? One of mines stripped... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Studs come welded or pressed in to the FPR, you just install the nuts http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/3f37.jpg http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/3f39.jpg http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/3f310.jpg http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/3f311.jpg http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/3f312.jpg http://www.b2600turbo.com/misc%20gallery/injmixer.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Woops my bad not the FPR the injector holder part 'A' on the diagram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Woops my bad not the FPR the injector holder part 'A' on the diagram I swapped mine for some nice allen head ones at home depot cost like .80 cents or something....Take one off and measure it up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I think I found the problem. Remembering back last week that night that it sat at my work it rained. Then wouldn't start the next morning when I got off. No yesterday afternoon it rained before I had to go to work. Then wouldn't start again after the rain storm. So..................when I thought distributor before I may have been right. The humidity/moisture getting inside of it somehow throught a crack or bad seal perhaps...... I'll replace it and see what happens I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) The caps have a vent and its to go at the top, you can put them on upside down. They are also supposed to have a gasket seal under the cap to the distributor base but 99% of them are missing and no one knew one was ever there. Edited June 10, 2009 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Well......new cap and nothing..... Interestingly I pressed on an injector and some fuel came out of the top of it. Guess it is a leaky injector for sure then right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 I tried unplugging the injectors and cranking it over for about 20-30 seconds to try and clear out the flooded cylinders. Still no go....I'm not sure if its getting spark really. Nobody around to crank it while I press a wire against metal.... Earlier BrazilBoy said he got a Jacobs Electronics ignition coil (which I guess is now Accel) I was gonna pick one up just wondering if the coils go bad often on these cars. It was just one more thing I wanted to try before taking the throttle body apart to take to a shop and have them remove the damaged bolt and clean the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurleyTSi Posted June 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Well its definitely something getting wet. Rained again while I was driving. Turned the car off and went inside the store. Came out and bam sure enough wouldn't start. Could the coil be possibly letting in moisture? Maybe just a wire somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Yes, you have a leaky injector. That will definitely cause those symptoms. I like to run a one step hotter plug in my alternating injection cars. It starts better and runs better. These are stock boost (4.5 Lbs) non intercooled cars with a little lower compression from age. The hotter plug really seems to help them stay alive a few more years without rebuilding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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