soulmourning Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 curious what other vehicles used the same block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 curious what other vehicles used the same block? None. There are many cars that used a very similar version, but none of them have the piston cooler jets like the starion/conquet G54B. There were millions of G54B's made, but few with those jets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulmourning Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 None. There are many cars that used a very similar version, but none of them have the piston cooler jets like the starion/conquet G54B. There were millions of G54B's made, but few with those jets. so cannot use any other block(literilly just the block) for a rebuild in our cars? My friends car that we just bought has a whole the size of a grapefruit thru it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 so cannot use any other block(literilly just the block) for a rebuild in our cars? My friends car that we just bought has a whole the size of a grapefruit thru it you can use -any- g54B block, other than the piston cooling jets, they are all the same. From the mid 70's though the last blocks made in the early 90's (in austrailia) Things that are unique to the starion bottom end are those cooling jets, improved oil pump (late 1984), low compression pistons, and the nitirde hardened crank. If you don't mind loosing the cooling jets, you can use any G54B block in your build. If you want to keep those jets, the stairon block is your only choice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulmourning Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 you can use -any- g54B block, other than the piston cooling jets, they are all the same. From the mid 70's though the last blocks made in the early 90's (in austrailia) Things that are unique to the starion bottom end are those cooling jets, improved oil pump (late 1984), low compression pistons, and the nitirde hardened crank. If you don't mind loosing the cooling jets, you can use any G54B block in your build. If you want to keep those jets, the stairon block is your only choice... I new to these cars so I'm still learning.....would it make a big diff without the cooling jets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobalt60 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 I didnt know about those jets, but I think you would want to have that hardened crank. Im guessing you could probably use the crank from your current block though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulmourning Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 I didnt know about those jets, but I think you would want to have that hardened crank. Im guessing you could probably use the crank from your current block though. yea was just gonna use the original crank...if its still good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 I thought DAD had said you can add the piston oilers as the passages are cast in the blocks we just need to drill and tap the holes. Not sure about that tho. Also you can get the non-hardened crank nitraded, as all of the 2.6 blocks came with forged cranks (Again, not 100% sure but I recall reading this on the forum) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) you best bet for 100% positive answers is to pm Dad and ask him...He's built tons of these and would give you solid advice you can count on about adding the oilers to a non quest block. BC_99 Edited May 9, 2009 by BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 most of the mid 80's and up had that passage cast into it, but getting them drilled/tapped isn't somethign you can just do in your garage. It's doable, but I'd say if you want them, try to find a block that already has them. Many blocks don't have that passage, so it's not a cut and dry thing to fine one outside of the starion version. As to "do you need them?" That is debatable. They serve a useful purpose (cooling the pistons) but you'll live without them. Many turbo cars don't have them anyway, it's just a nice thing to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 The '87 - '89 TSi short blocks also have lighter piston pins. I'm pretty sure the '86 had the older pins with the smaller diameter hole and heavier. I haven't had a chance to tear down my '86 ESiR block to check it. It is junk like yours with a big hole through the #4 cavity that blew the starter off. I know '83 - '85 had the heavier pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Late 2.6 blocks have the necessary internal oil passages to have the oil squirters added. As Chad said though adapting a block to use the squirters is probably not something to do yourself. If you look at the outside of the block you can see a "rib" that is the oil line; that rib won't appear on blocks that can't be adapted to the squirters. As I recall there is a hex plug or some other fitting on the exhaust side of the block that doesn't exist on the earlier blocks. Take a GOOD picture of the exhaust side of your block with you when you go shopping; if all little fittings/machined spots/cast-in ribs & bumps line up on your candidate block then it probably can be adapted. From underneath the engine, with the oil pan off, you can look "up" and see round pads in blocks that have the necessary oil passage/gallery. Those pads need to be cleaned up (flattened), drilled, and tapped for the squirters. Of course all metal bits from the drilling have to be cleaned out of the oil passages. I assume/hope that, when you use a used block, you're planning on having a professional machine shop do a full job on it: * clean it * "line bore" the crankshaft journals if necessary * bore/hone the cylinder walls as necessary * check the top of the block for flatness; machine/surface it as necessary * re-do the balance shaft bearings, crank bearings, etc. Normal rebuild stuff. A shop familiar with the 2.6 will know about the oil squirters; ask them if they'd be willing to install the squirters. Save them from your old engine block; don't remove them though - let the shop do that - because there are 2 different types of squirters in the 4 cylinders... don't mix 'em up. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 This is a pic from Kevin C. from like 8 years ago! It looks like it requires a special bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulmourning Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 ty much everyone for the info!! I'll relay everything to my friend and we can go from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 That's not a "bit" its a cutter and that's likely a milling machine perhaps like the Bridgeport I bought a few weeks ago. That cutter is just making the flat spot in the area that is over the main oil galley. The oil jet you use is your choice many motors now use oil jets. Some have a bolt/banjo setup like ours do and the DSMs then there are those like are in late model turbo dodge 2.4 blocks and they just seal to the block with an o-ring and have a little tab welded to the side of that and have a bolt that fastens them down. You can buy after market oil jets that come with the cutter to install them so you could do this to any motor that has an oil galley where you can get oil from. Most are going to have this because how else do they get oil to the bearings? These generic jets you can bend the tube and aim where you like. The early blocks, 70s, those will have smaller main journals then up in the early 80s they changed the way the oil was fed to the head and how it drained so you don't want those. You need to look for a mid 80s up block and its most likely going to be found in a truck, or raider/montero up until ~1989. When they made the oil pump case thicker to use thicker gears to have more volume it was only in regards to the gears and the front case, the rest of the timing components are the same. Unless you were to go look for the Pre83 thin pump at say an parts supply for a fork lift or industrial engine you won't find this low volume pump any longer. They stopped using it in vehicles 1983. Prior to that, and this was only a year or so, they did have two pumps and one was higher volume and it was only for the turbo motor. If you see a "high volume" oil pump advertised for this motor its a scam there is no such thing and unless you went back in time you aren't going to find one. If you need a block then you will have to get it from a RWD and I'd look for a MightyMax or Ram50/D50 they are in junkyards everywhere. A crank can be hardened if you like but it doesn't have to be. If there is pump failure or chain guides wearing out in 100k miles the debris from that will eat up a non hardened crank quick but the hardened cranks it may only just score the journals and that may polish out. I'd think that if a block got a hole in it that a rod did it and that's from no oil so that motor is all trash anyway. The block may be able to be saved. If its just a hole in the side then patch it, all it does it keep the oil from coming out. It will depend on what other damage is present and where the hole is exactly. The rods are the same and you can buy aftermarket turbo pistons. You can always use the truck oil pump, its the same pump it just uses the oil pick up tube location. This pump is also less than half the price of the "turbo" pump. You will use the oil pan you have and you have to to mod the pick up tube if you want to use the truck pump but the aim for the pickup tube in the sump in a truck is very close. You may have to use the timing cover you have but you can move the oil drain for the turbo to the oil pump it doesn't have to go back into the timing cover. You can't use any FWD 2.6 parts except for the head, the rods, the crank if you want to use a non hardened one, the rear oil seal retainer and that's about it. The FWD has a completely different timing cover, water pump, alternator mounting and it has a different bellhousing and won't bolt to your tranny either. Here you can buy a set, all they do is aim at the underside of the piston. http://www.machv.com/1gdsmoilsq.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts