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Forget Cuting the air box!


88questPROJ
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;D REMOVE the damn thang. All you do is remove the air box , then remove the gold piece out of it and install it to the bottom of the air filter. Then you zip tie from the clips to the arms on the bottom of the gold piece for all three clips. Then BOOM you have a nice intake!   ;D  8)
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;D REMOVE the damn thang. All you do is remove the air box , then remove the gold piece out of it and install it to the bottom of the air filter. Then you zip tie from the clips to the arms on the bottom of the gold piece for all three clips. Then BOOM you have a nice intake!   ;D  8)

 

thats really old school. the air still has to pass the filter and make a very sharp uturn in a tight spot right in front of the gold piece then go up the sensor. very restrictive.

 

the best design is to remove the gold plate and the filter, cut a 3 inch hold at the buttm of the air canister and welt a lip so you can connect a hose over it and then run that into a cone filter which is outside the airbox.

 

someone else who achived the same result used a 3inch muffler, cut it in half and pulled it over the sensor and eliminated the stock airbox. .

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has any of these tricks been proven to increase hp? The stock srt4s have a airbox similar to ours with air coming in from the fenderwell

 

Mopar found that opening up the box allows for hot engine air to get to the filter first. of course  Then aem brings out their short ram intake and owners start dynoing the cars and find that they've lost whp and trq so is cutting the thing a good idea really? Or is it a waste of time? I'd think connecting a hose to the bottom of the can is awesome as long as the box stays put and as long as it doesn't suck up rainwater.

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I donno man. I think i gained some power. The turbo spools up quicker and it seems to have more punch. I doubt you would loose power. The airbox is VERY restrictive.

I seems far enough away from everythang to get ok temp air. Plus I don't have enough money for anythang pricey right now. Like getting some one to weld my air box.

Shawn

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don't forget about the now "old school" hks intake which utilized a foam type filter which was still high enough to keep water out of the equation yet low enough to such fresh air.  Check it out, starquestrims has one, and i'm sure there are a few others still floating around.  While i don't think an oiled sponge is the best filtration devise,  i would take that over some of the cold air attempts i've seen.  You more spirited guys might have new ideas based on it, look at the last attempts and improve.

 

pen

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getting rid of the airbox doesn't really give you that much more power. it simply gives you the ability to suck more air at one time allowing the turbo to spool up quicker. and it'll be a little noisier. also to help if you have the MAS of a 1st gen eclipse, is to remove the lower honeycombs(i'm sure yall already knew that but just saying to be said) which will also allow quicker spool but power gains is at a mininum.
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If it is spooling up quicker then it is getting quite a bit more air.  There is no way to say that removin the air box doesn't give you much power.  I KNOW it did because I can feel the diff in the power. It pulls alot harder and it seems to have more power from 5000 - 6000rpm. The car never even wanted to go past 5k with that air box. Plus the blow off is super loud now. That sounds cool.

Shawn

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i garuntee you probably didn't gain more than 5 hp by removing the box, but you are freeing up the air flow which makes it get more punch. dyno your car and you'll see, but its still something everyone should do, atleast hack the box up, cause the spool gets a little quicker and you should be able to turn the bost up another psi. which yes will give you more power. so i guess you could say it does give more power in the sense that you will be able to turn the boost up
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Dont get stuck on the totaly peak HP, its all about the power band. You want it too come is as soon as posibly and drop off as late as posible. So if it spools faster and dont drop off as fast, then that is a good gain.

Peak hp #'s are not very usefull, a 300 peek hp car that only has it for 10rpms then drops too 100hp is going too be alot slower then the car with 200hp that has a wide long power band.

Also too make this mod even better, remove the charcoal canister (leave one way valve on it and put the tube so it goes out from the engine bay) and get a new intake pipe from turbo too air box and move it down to where the charcoal can was should get some nice cold air plus the larger turbo boot will help also.

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  • 4 weeks later...

LOL he said cheap on the Conquest forum...

;D ;D ;D

 

no actually check with *DM he makes a nice AHP (accordian Hard Pipe) replacement for just a bit over 100.  Oh btw get it with the silicone connecters .  Looks nice painted clear (LOL)

 

Take it ez

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I was at the junkyard walking around and noticed that the airbox from a hyunday sonata will fit the starion nicely. its very similar but the pickup for the intake, instead of going to the fender it picks up down by the charcoal canister, for much cooler air.

 

but the better option is the Jaguar airbox. the old XJ6s with the straight 6 engine.

their airbox is kinda similar to my 1st gen DSM HKS airbox. its an inline design rather than the side filteration of the mitsubishi system. it will need slight modification but what you do is put the sensor in the airbox and then run an hose to a cone filter outside the box someplace in front of the car.

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I did the "remove the whole damn airbox" mod a year ago, but I also got some sheetmetal and made a box for it, so I don't get the hot engine air. I used two layers, with header wrap inbetween, and then I painted the whole "box" black with dupli-color high heat engine paint(1200degrees+).

 

I still have the charcoal canister though, maybe i'll get around to yanking that out too.

 

 

John

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hi,

 

yes i went with the HKS SMF sponge air filter and at first I thought it was great. But after a while the fiter seemed to let in to much dirty air. My OVC pipe had dust in it were as before it was very clean. For now I did another mod. I took the can away totally and just have the air filter screwed onto the air can lid. This was a very inexpensive mod, two screw rods, a thick piece of plexy glass (you can use anything for the base DO NOT USE PLEXY GLASS!! to much stress! use the brass base found at the bottom of the air can!), two wing nuts, two screw caps and  4 washers. I used the stock filter at first but am going to a K&N next. simply measure the outline of the filter when on the can lid. drill two holes in the lid to allow for the screw rods to pass through. put the screw rods through the lid and through the air filter. put the screw rods down the inside wall of the filter, between the filter and filter cage. be careful not to poke a hole in the filter. put the base, my plexy glass, on the bottom of the filter and draw the outline. drill two holes in the proper place to let the screw rods down through. put the lock washers on the top and bottom and put the screw caps on the top of the lid screw rods and wing nuts on the bottom and tighten. cut the base to the outline of the filter.

 

it lets more air in but i do question the heat factor. but one thing is for sure with the can off there is allot more room and it only takes a second to get it in and out.

 

pics - http://www.ieasysite.com/starquestrims/starquestrims_022.htm

 

mark v

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