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LT1 and 6 Speed swap


Mrounds
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Hey guys new to the board. I bought a 87 for 250 and have a 94 Chevy caprice with a 6 speed that I will be gutting. I just have a few questions for those who have done this where do you get a front sump oil pan and well I guess that's all my worries. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...
You can get a front sump pan,pump & pickup tube for the newer one piece rear mains from Chevy II only. It,s a company that specializes in replacement parts for the Chevy II. You may be able to use the oil pan made for 4x4 S10 swaps as it has a narrower sump to accomodate the front axle on those trucks which may clear the steering linkange on the Quest.
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  • 1 month later...

I have gotten a little bit of the swap complete. I have the motor sitting in the car after modifing the crossmember and making motor mounts. Still working on getting the steering to work with the rear sump oil pan. Here is a link to the first test fit with the spare motor. I have done a lot since this picture but need to take a few more pics to post.

 

http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live....spx/Car/016.JPG

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Did you start with a 94 caprice that had already been swapped to manual? If so, waht are your plans with the shell?

 

I installed the 6 speed in the caprice. I have not decided I was thinking about selling it or installing the original motor and a tranny in it and selling it, either way it will be sold.

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  • 3 months later...

So its been a while, but finally got the caprice stripped and started the conversion. Left the motor alone and just modified the car to work with the engine. Also started a rack and pinion conversion out of a mustang. Here are some pics. It will all get pulled out and cleaned as well as engine bay getting a fresh coat of paint. So far only tacked everything together so I can still make tweaks as needed. I bought center dump headers which now are going to be modified to work with the new rack. Its is always change as most projects do. More to come.

 

 

Mike

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Looks good man. I'm swapping an LS1 in mine right now going through the same mess. I also rebult my k member to use a mustang (style rack) in front of the k member. My question is, which a little junk yard diving should solve, is what to do with the spindles? I'm going to start a thread tonight on my build.
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Looks good man. I'm swapping an LS1 in mine right now going through the same mess. I also rebult my k member to use a mustang (style rack) in front of the k member. My question is, which a little junk yard diving should solve, is what to do with the spindles? I'm going to start a thread tonight on my build.

 

 

 

Adam told me you can just reverse the attachment points for the tie rods, going to try this week will let you know how it goes. After a quick look today, it looks to me that all I would have to do is hone or get the attachment points honed out by a shop to fit the mustang tie rods. I will find out more this week. I also ordered up the 2 u-joints and the shafts for the steering will see how they workout.

 

 

 

Mike

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I thought the same way and did that on monday. It kinda works. As in, they bolt up but end up off center from the strut. I don't feel that its unsafe, they are just a little off. The problem we face now is the steering rod hitting the the caster rods. it looks like it will clear when turned in, but when turned out the rotational angle of the spindle makes it go upwards. give it a shot, you'll see what I mean. Its not a huge deal, and theirs got to be away around it.
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  • 2 months later...

I finally got a steering setup that will work. Had to convert over to heim joints and spacers. I have a friend that owns a machine shop in Colorado who also built a SCCA race car. He told me how to take care of bump steer and showed me the setup on his race car. The goal is to get the length on the rod on the rack to match the lower control arm. By adjusting the spacer you can take bump steer out. I had a machine shop make me couplers that thread on to the rack rod and then left hand threads for the heim joint. Now I can spin the coupler and it adjusts the tow in and out. Time for the exhaust!

 

 

 

 

http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live....browse.aspx/Car

Edited by Mrounds
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  • 3 months later...

Well another progress report on the swap. I finished the headers up and the exhaust to the muffler is tacked in to posistion. I am doing duel side pipes just need to decide if I will cut in to the body and mount them high or just come straight out the side. Headers still need weilds cleaned up and painted/rapped but that will come when everything is completed and I pull it apart for full clean up before final reassembly. Its been slow have only had time to work on it here and there. The header on the drivers side was fun to make due to the steering rod for the rack and pinion. I still need to do a little metal massage so it does not hit the frame rail if the motor rocks side to side ( dont think it will since the motor mounts are pretty solid with just a little urathane bushing for vibration).

 

http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Car?lc=1033

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yeah thats why I haven't painted my engine bay yet... I got these for my steering, still haven't had the pieces made yet, still not 100% on the design. Steeda bump steer kit. Also did both control arms, still need to box them in with heims... lots to do..

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0225.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0228.jpg

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yeah thats why I haven't painted my engine bay yet... I got these for my steering, still haven't had the pieces made yet, still not 100% on the design. Steeda bump steer kit. Also did both control arms, still need to box them in with heims... lots to do..

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0225.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0228.jpg

 

Looking good. Your wood piece needs to be larger on that end where they connect so that the travel of the rack arm and the lower control arm are the same. I do not know if I said that right but as long as the sweep of both are the same you will not have bump steer.

 

I have to change my tranny mount a little. I designed it the hard way and found a easier and cleaner way so I;m going to change it but just the ends. It should make the mounting location look nice with out all that welding. Just one of those things that you do before you think. I think I will do more work on it this week if the wife doesn't change my plains.

Edited by Mrounds
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I know what your saying. But when the wheels are straight, the steering rack and control arms are perfectly parallel. its only when the steering is at full lock that they become unparallel. I'll get another pic tonight to show you what I mean. I really only plan on having about 1" of suspension travel so I really don't think its going to be an issue. Be sure to post some pics of the new mount, very interested.
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  • 4 months later...
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