Mrounds

Hurry and sell it lol

Here is a honda swap that would work.

Bump. Its back for sale updated listing. Thanks for looking.

If you want the answer fast contact my buddy Jack at jackstransmissions.com, he is the man when it comes to the 4g63/64 motors. Send him and email and he should reply just tell him MLR sent you to him. Mike

Did you tub the back to get 335's on it? I want to turbo my LT1 but afraid that there will be no trashon with out fat boys in the back plus I love that look. Do you have any pics of yours from the back?

Yeah I can take the monitors out of the housing and fit 2 side by side in the opening. Looks good.

What size screen is that? Mike

That's pretty cool. I have 2 7" wide/touch screen displays I'm going to install in mine along with an in car computer to interface with the stock LT1 ECU.

Looking good. Your wood piece needs to be larger on that end where they connect so that the travel of the rack arm and the lower control arm are the same. I do not know if I said that right but as long as the sweep of both are the same you will not have bump steer. I have to change my tranny mount a little. I designed it the hard way and found a easier and cleaner way so I;m going to change it but just the ends. It should make the mounting location look nice with out all that welding. Just one of those things that you do before you think. I think I will do more work on it this week if the wife doesn't change my plains.

I add all the pic's to my hotmail photo area. The link is http://cid-b7fdcd65c...spx/Car?lc=1033 Thanks for looking.

Not really, I'm just doing all the mock up now, I still have to fully disassemble it all for final welding and painting. You know all the small things take the most time. But your doing all those things as you go. lol

Well another progress report on the swap. I finished the headers up and the exhaust to the muffler is tacked in to posistion. I am doing duel side pipes just need to decide if I will cut in to the body and mount them high or just come straight out the side. Headers still need weilds cleaned up and painted/rapped but that will come when everything is completed and I pull it apart for full clean up before final reassembly. Its been slow have only had time to work on it here and there. The header on the drivers side was fun to make due to the steering rod for the rack and pinion. I still need to do a little metal massage so it does not hit the frame rail if the motor rocks side to side ( dont think it will since the motor mounts are pretty solid with just a little urathane bushing for vibration). http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Car?lc=1033

I bought some cheep pacesetters from summit that would have worked with the stock steering but not with the rack and pinion I installed. I have sense bought a set of used headers from a local guy and cut up both sets to make 1 set that would work. But thats how these things go.

I would love to make it down there but have to work that night. When you guys meeting in Bastrop next month? I will not have the swap done in mine but always willing to check out others cars and meet new people. Mike

Yeah, I think I will finish it. The CTS-V will still be there when I am done.

Well I guess its to much or no ones interested in such a big project. Guess I will continue working on it.

Could do that if you want to buy it.

Austin Tx. But I might be willing to put it on a trailer and haul it for a small fee.

I am selling the project because I got a G8 Gt and want to put a set of turbos on it. The car is a 1987 conquest TSI white with red interior. The LT1 and transmission have already been set in the car I have installed a rack and pinion from a 90 mustang. I want to get 2500.00 for everything I got but I do not know if this is too high of a price. The body is straight. I am willing to part out the car if I can't sell it as a complete project. I have a lot of money and time put in to the project but the G8 needs twins bad. Some pic at http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Car?ct=photos&sa=489792439 .Parts I have. 2- LT1 motors (1 95 aluminum headed and 1 94 Iron headed) the 94 needs rebuilt. 2- Complete computer and wiring harness (1 manual and 1 automatic) 1- T56 transmission (from the 95 camaro) 1- Shortened drive shaft. 1- Aluminum radiator 1- Custom set of headers made 1- 2 in 2 out 2 1/2in flowmaster 40 series muffler Several J/U bends of 2 1/2 tubes for exhaust( exhaust finished to the rear subframe.) 1- Brand new l piece airdam and I am sure there are more parts I am missing.

Don't want to sound mean but this is a complete waste of time as the 4G63 motor is cheaper to build and plenty of swaps have been done also I have a buddy who owns a DSM shop in Colorado that can get you a lightened crankshaft that is insane. Here is a pic comparing stock to lightened. Go to jackstransmissions.com. Mike

That sounds good can't wait to see the pictures. Between several of us we will make this work! When you talk about the endlink is that the caster adjustment rod? I was going to make a spacer for that so it was a bit higher. Mine scraps at lock so it needs to be raise just a little or with you idea under the LCA that would also work. I will measure the diffrent steering angles later this week. Mike

QUOTE (S.M.B @ Aug 23 2009, 03:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>wasnt talking about ur ackerman, i know all about steering geometry, and even the slightest negative ackerman will drasticly effect the cornering of a car. been there done that... i was just suggesting the placement of ur outer heim joint for bump steer. also the heims ur using are the low budget cheap heims, i would suggest the precision heims from speedwaymotors.com, there only $10 each, stronger and more accurate, the cheap heims develope play to fast. SMB, this is my setup and as far as the bump steer goes, I have installed spacers that eliminate as much of the bump steer as I could in the full range of the suspension. As far as the heim joints go, I just picked up a cheap set to verify the steering was going to work. My buddy who has been designing race cars for the last 30 years told me which heim joints to use and I will buy them as soon as this setup is verified to work. Anyway sounds like this might only be on the car for a short period of time if you get that setup you are designing done. Thanks for the suggestions. Mike

I installed the rack just because I like the feel of it better. I could have used the original setup as that was the original plan so the motor is set far enough back to use it. I have a 91 SHO with the rack mounted behind the crossmember, tomorrow I will look at it and see if it will work in our cars as a rear mount rack setup. Mike

I finally got a steering setup that will work. Had to convert over to heim joints and spacers. I have a friend that owns a machine shop in Colorado who also built a SCCA race car. He told me how to take care of bump steer and showed me the setup on his race car. The goal is to get the length on the rod on the rack to match the lower control arm. By adjusting the spacer you can take bump steer out. I had a machine shop make me couplers that thread on to the rack rod and then left hand threads for the heim joint. Now I can spin the coupler and it adjusts the tow in and out. It should work until something better comes along. Here is a link to some photos. http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live....browse.aspx/Car

I finally got a steering setup that will work. Had to convert over to heim joints and spacers. I have a friend that owns a machine shop in Colorado who also built a SCCA race car. He told me how to take care of bump steer and showed me the setup on his race car. The goal is to get the length on the rod on the rack to match the lower control arm. By adjusting the spacer you can take bump steer out. I had a machine shop make me couplers that thread on to the rack rod and then left hand threads for the heim joint. Now I can spin the coupler and it adjusts the tow in and out. Time for the exhaust! http://cid-b7fdcd65c51462bf.skydrive.live....browse.aspx/Car