chiplee Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 Well it's amazing what a little clogged filter will do. I think I was one of the guys bashing the walbros when we had that rash of them failing a while back. Just wanted to set the record straight that mine is still going strong. I just happened to get a clogged filter around the same time and once again jumped to the wrong conclusion. I had cleaned my post pump filter but ignored both pre-filters because they were new. I replaced one of them today and my pump instantly went from howling to silent and my cutting out on boost problem is completely solved. Nice to have my car back, and for about $10 instead of the $300 I was going to dump on a new pump/filter/tank combo. Looks like those 3.90s and new drive train will be going in a little sooner than expected. I wasn't going to mess with that or the big brakes until I got this fixed. http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/chipleeiii/DSC01751-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 Which filter (s) do you still have before the pump? Did you retain the cone shaped one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Which filter (s) do you still have before the pump? Did you retain the cone shaped one? no, I was afraid it would break up and clog the actual pump. I replaced it with a cheap inline plastic one from autozone. Similar to a wix. The pump got SO quiet when I replaced the old one that was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/chipleeiii/DSC01751-1.jpg I really have to see/ ride in this car! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 I really have to see/ ride in this car! Dad indeed. And "your" engine shows no signs of weakening yet so I'll try to keep it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxzillian Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 (edited) Where did you source up the CV shafts? Edited December 1, 2008 by Maxzillian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Where did you source up the CV shafts? Constant Velocity of Ocala. CVO http://www.cvaxles.com/about_cvo.htm About $140 each with your core. They'll do performance builds if needed but when I told the guy I'd be hovering around 400ft/lbs to the road he swore his stock rebuild would hold that with no trouble at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxzillian Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Cool, thanks! I need to replace the CV shafts on my car, but the only remanned shafts left are for non-intercooled cars. This at least gives me a lead on a place that can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 howling pump eh? Glad ya fixed it Mine does the same thing.... but get this.... I drive it home and with the lights on and no interior in the car its pretty loud. i pull it into the garage and when i turn off the lights.... the pump goes quiet! Turn the headlights back on... and the bump whines... *shrug* guess i need to look at my wiring job again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 no, I was afraid it would break up and clog the actual pump. I replaced it with a cheap inline plastic one from autozone. Similar to a wix. The pump got SO quiet when I replaced the old one that was there. Cool just checking cause that thing obviously doesn't fit correctly with the walbro. What's that pretty looking driveshaft? Cool, thanks! I need to replace the CV shafts on my car, but the only remanned shafts left are for non-intercooled cars. This at least gives me a lead on a place that can do it. Did anyone ever figure out what the difference is between 4 bolt shafts? In case you want another resource I got some done by these guys. Basic work but no troubles and it's been several years on the road. http://a1driveshaft.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 What's that pretty looking driveshaft? I had an aluminum shaft made with 1310 joints. At this point they just need a yoke to cut the splined portion off of. They kept my "donor" shaft for future measuring purposes. Unless you happen to need an automatic driveshaft obviously. Precision shaft technologies, PST is the builder and aluminum was about $450 if I recall correctly, which included zero balancing and installed u-joints. Shipping is even free for military. They can actually make mild steel shafts even cheaper, or carbon shafts much more expensive. But with the torque tube parts, rear end, brake kit and half shafts, there's about $2300 laying on the floor in that pic. The person I got the reference from seems to want to remain nameless so I'll let them post if they care to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Only $2300? Looks like $2500! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 (edited) Money better spent on a tranny swap. Dont get me wrong, looks good! Edited December 1, 2008 by phinko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Money better spent on a tranny swap. but a tranny swap would still have required all of these parts, custom drive shaft, rebuilt half shafts and rear end, or even custom rear end and half shafts. I was about to do the tranny swap thing and my "budget" didn't allow it because it was adding up to 2 to 3k more than I spent. I think the stock tranny will do fine once the 3.90s are in there. Should give it enough mechanical advantage to signficantly reduce wear forward of the rear gears. Hope so anyway. If not I'll sell my aluminum shaft, get a custom length one made and swap another tranny in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Chip how did you come info for that Ocala drive shaft shop , i don't recall mentioning them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Chip how did you come info for that Ocala drive shaft shop , i don't recall mentioning them I actually don't remember. I might have just found them online by searching. Pretty good experience all around with them though. You familiar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GCNTSi Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well maybe we were to quick to cut in the pumps, I hope I can be so lucky with the Walboro still being good, mine was making noise off and on so maybe it's just the filter is clogged. But what did you do to clean up the tank so it doesn't clog up another filter, or kill the pump? And did you coat the inside of the tank? I dropped my tank and there is a lot of rust particles in there. I'm trying to figure out how to clean the tank up good, I was thinking muratic acid, or the electrolysis method. Or take it to the radiator shop, but I don't think they can coat the inside so I'd be afraid the rust would come right back.? Any ideas? -GCNTSi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well maybe we were to quick to cut in the pumps, I hope I can be so lucky with the Walboro still being good, mine was making noise off and on so maybe it's just the filter is clogged. But what did you do to clean up the tank so it doesn't clog up another filter, or kill the pump? And did you coat the inside of the tank? I dropped my tank and there is a lot of rust particles in there. I'm trying to figure out how to clean the tank up good, I was thinking muratic acid, or the electrolysis method. Or take it to the radiator shop, but I don't think they can coat the inside so I'd be afraid the rust would come right back.? Any ideas? -GCNTSi. yeah good point. nothing yet. Right now the plan is to just listen for the pump to hint at starting to whine again and change the filter. It's super easy to get to for me since I cut the metal away above the pump and made a bigger block off plate. But you're obviously right, it needs to get fixed. it's also a clear plastic filter so I can just look in there and see if it's getting dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I actually don't remember. I might have just found them online by searching. Pretty good experience all around with them though. You familiar? yep sure am have use'd them many a time as for trash in the tank i'd do as i did on my caravan , light rust and sand i took out the intank filter and install'd the inline filter you use'd , it took maybe 5 or 6 filters befor the tank was clear , but with the intank sock in place you will never get any of the trash out of the tank you can also speed this up a bit by draining the gas and pouring it thru paint filters to remove a lot of the trash ,go slow with the pouring so you do not over run the paint filter,, then you can pour it back into the gas tank , you will never get it all out because of the tank design , but once the inline filter starts to stay clear, you reinstall the intank sock filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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