Krank Vent Install

[psu_Crash]

I just installed a set of Krank vents from ET performance and I am wondering what to do with the valve that connects to the port on the back of the valve cover. I currently have it just venting to atmosphere with no hose on one side of the krank vent. Should I get a small breather filter to put on this or should it be connected to the intake? Since i have the baffles in the Valve cover cut under this port for the ARP studs I don't want to blow oil into the intake.

[Caliber308]

I just installed a set of Krank vents from ET performance and I am wondering what to do with the valve that connects to the port on the back of the valve cover. I currently have it just venting to atmosphere with no hose on one side of the krank vent. Should I get a small breather filter to put on this or should it be connected to the intake? Since i have the baffles in the Valve cover cut under this port for the ARP studs I don't want to blow oil into the intake.

 

Yes, Just hook up a hose off the Large K.V. and install a Small breather off of it. www.summitracing.com has one that will work fine.

 

 

CALIBER 308

[psu_Crash]

That's what I was hoping for. Thanks

I see a bunch of them on summit's site. Which one do you use?

Edited November 26, 2008 by psu_Crash

[Caliber308]

That's what I was hoping for. Thanks

I see a bunch of them on summit's site. Which one do you use?

 

It's been awhile since I bought mine. But you want something like this: SUM-G3417 from Summit. You can check your hose O.D. and just clamp it on, or get one that fits the inside the hose. That is the basic design you want to use. A 1 1/2 in. diameter breather is fine.

 

CALIBER 308

Edited November 26, 2008 by Caliber308

[Indiana]

I hope you kept your oil separator

[slydogg]

^^ i heard that coming .

[psu_Crash]

I hope you kept your oil separator

 

Nope didn't keep the separator. I don't see how it would be possible to use that still as it would never allow a vacuum in the crankcase. Thought that was the whole point of going with a krank vent setup?

 

ET performance's site says to ditch the stock separator so that's what i did

[BIL]

I installed the krank vent alternative Kelly tested. With one installed with a breather on the rear of the valve cover it blew oil out of the lower vent hose. The heavy oil (20-50) was making the valve stick. I took it out and just ran one krank vent and it works fine.

[Caliber308]

Nope didn't keep the separator. I don't see how it would be possible to use that still as it would never allow a vacuum in the crankcase. Thought that was the whole point of going with a krank vent setup?

 

ET performance's site says to ditch the stock separator so that's what i did

 

I have been running my K.V. set up for years. Never had any trouble.

 

CALIBER 308

[Indiana]

You have a crankcase, lets call it a box. The box produces positive pressure from blowby. Blowby comes from combustion pressure that gets past the piston rings. ALL engines have blowby. Forced induction engines by the way they make power have pressurized air/fuel charge to burn and when that is introduced the compression ratio multiples. That blowby must escape. You can't have the box build up pressure. The box has two holes in it, both in the valve cover. The front hole has a check valve already in there its called a PCV valve. NON OEM pcv valves for the most part do not seal completely and I've not even seen an oem valve seal completely but it seals most and better than any other. The other hole is at the back of the valve cover and it runs through a FILTER that is inside a tin can and that is called an oil separator. The oil separator is no miracle part its just a tin can with a hose in and out of it and one in the bottom to let the captured oil go back into the oil pan. Basic pcv valve function VENTILATES your crankcase with fresh, in this motor filtered, air. Fresh air into the crankcase prolongs the life of your oil, reduces SLUDGE build up from trapped moisture and other things you can read what the purpose of a pcv valve is anywhere (like some in here don't give a crap anyway ignorant dumba**es). Your crankcase at idle has fresh filtered air, front your air filter, entering just before the turbo inlet and is drawn through the separator and into the rear of the valve cover and is sucked out along with the BLOWBY at idle and goes into the intake manifold under the throttlebody and is burned. BLOWBY has unburnt fuel in it and other exhaust gases. You get some benefits from reburning that blowby as long as it is FILTERED. The oil separator, and the pcv valve in a way, filter out the oil vapor and SAVE it to return it to the oil pan. Here's where they SUCKER THEN LIE to you. They want you to put a second one way check valve on the rear of the valve cover that prevents the fresh air from entering the crankcase and only allow POSITIVE PRESSURE to escape. If there was no POSITIVE PRESSURE to escape you'd need no valve right? They LIE to you and claim your crankcase HOLDS vacuum. LIE ONLY at idle does this happen and never without an oil separator hooked back to the turbo inlet will it happen at any other time. As soon as you touch the gas pedal and the rpms increase that vacuum is instantly gone and it turns into positive pressure NOT a vacuum. Most times the pcv valve is open allowing the intake to draw gases from the crankcase, and yes since the valve cover is a part of the crankcase since this motor is completely open in the front forget they call it a valve cover connection like you may have in say a DSM with a very much so and very differently baffled valve cover with only oil drain passages back to the crankcase but when you have boost pressure it closes the pcv valve so that boost can't enter the crankcase. What happens to the air flow through the oil separator when you are under boost? IT CHANGES DIRECTION AND NOW FLOWS OUT and is sucked in to the turbo inlet and it still burns that blowby. Is the turbo the same thing as a vacuum pump? Isn't a turbo inlet the source of low pressure? Isn't your boost pressure related to turbine shaft rpms? Isn't compression ratio from boost pressure multiplied and related to turbine shaft rpms? How much suction do you suppose is at the inlet of the turbo for that little wheel to cause 20psi of flowing air? A crap LOAD that is how much. The connection back to the turbo inlet that runs the blowby gases through a filter (called an oil separator) is REQUIRED for you to have negative pressures in your crankcase in this motor under boost. If you have no such connection back to the turbo inlet that you WILL and DO have positive pressure in your crankcase at most times NOT the vacuum LIE that ET says you do. A member MANY years ago tested these gimmic valves and he tested his crankcase pressure from a source that was wrong and can not be used to test pressures from. He tested it from the dipstick. In this motor the dipstick goes into a tube that goes down UNDER the oil level. The car was at idle, he had he rear valve on that prevented air from entering and only the valve on the pcv side is sucking at idle and he sees a vacuum condition. OMG big deal did it take any brains to figure that one out? How much vacuum is too much before the oil pump can't draw up the oil and lubricate the motor? nobody knows the answer to that but ring sealing at idle is meaningless but its not ring sealing its that the pcv valve can suck out more than the blowby that is produced so you get the negative pressure OR you'd implode the motor if it just idled all day right? Did it take some moron all day to try and figure out this BS bogus test to sucker in victims to buy check valves or did he just run with it a laugh he arse off since it was someone in here that did this? If you put a vacuum gauge on the end of your dipstick and you seal off the rear valve cover port even with a dead pcv valve or NONE at idle you WILL pull a vacuum on this crankcase or you have a crap motor with cracked rings or a hole in a piston or bent valves. BIG DEAL but it sells the damn things. Here's the part where the ones that make the test this way didn't get past the third grade. Did you ever see a coffee pot with a tube up the front that shows how much coffee is in the pot? That tube is open at the top cause if it wasn't you'd never see that you had any coffee except maybe one cup but the pot might be full. The coffee can't enter the tube unless the air pressure can escape. If you have a nozzle on the end of your garden hose and its closed and you hook the hose to your faucet and turn on the water what happens? Does the water go all the way in an fill the hose? NO, but it pressurized the air in that hose a little until it builds up to the same pressure as your water pressure is then it stops. If you had a valve on the other end of the hose and you closed it then unhooked the hose you could take that hose around all day and your gauge on the end of the hose wouldn't ever change would it? SAME thing is happening in the dipstick tube that is under the oil level. The reading for vacuum on a gauge is in inches of mercury, even just showing 5 inches negative you couldn't even be able to tell what that is it is so little of an amount. The gauge may move half inch for 10psi boost but to get the same in NEGATIVE pressure it would have to wind around the entire gauge about 4 times but when it moves about a half inch to the negative side that is about like saying you have negative .25psi or some TINY amount like that. You can convert psi to inhg if you like. You want to know how very LITTLE vacuum it takes to keep a liquid in a tube? Take a drinking straw, stick it in a glass and put your finger on the tip. Now pull that straw out of the liquid and guess what that liquid STAYS in the straw doesn't it? If you had put a vacuum gauge on there that was accurate enough to read such a tiny amount, or used a manometer, you'd see its about nothing. So if you show all this vacuum in your crankcase at IDLE and the dipstick is under the oil level guess what genious, the OIL gets SUCKED UP the dipstick tube from the vacuum held in there and is trapped by that vacuum gauge and ALL DAY you could drive that motor around and even SHUT THE DAMN MOTOR OFF and it show "vacuum" in your crankcase until the end of time. Soon as the motor revs up the vacuum is gone from all the blowby the motor produces. If you have no oil separator hooked back to the turbo inlet then under boost you have positive pressure in your crankcase. The test was flawed and wrong and showed nothing of value and you get others duplicating it. WHY? Its a meaningless test. I bought a digital manometer, I hook it up to the crankcase you know a port down IN the bottom of the block to hook the meter to. I tested stock, krankvents, with and without separator and with and without pcv valves added in and all times the only way to have vacuum under boost was WITH a connection back to the turbo inlet and that means an oil separator.

 

Go read ALL he very few posts by a screen name "motordoc" he is the one making the krankvents and he came on here and was just as, maybe purposely, confusing and he said the small one is a replacement for a pcv valve and the rear one you do not need. He couldn't say what happens and never would. He has never tested these and won't or won't tell or he'd never sell any more of the damn things.

[psu_Crash]

I understand your argument and i did think about that before i bought the krank vents. But, even with the stock separator I have no place to connect to between the filter and turbo to get the vacuum that you speak of now. Even back when I had all the stock parts and the separator connected to the intake pipe I was getting a decent amount of oil blowing into my turbo that I want to eliminate. I am going to give this system a shot for now at least and see what I think.

 

Thanks for ALL of your replies! Definitely some food for thought

[jahjah]

I understand your argument and i did think about that before i bought the krank vents. But, even with the stock separator I have no place to connect to between the filter and turbo to get the vacuum that you speak of now. Even back when I had all the stock parts and the separator connected to the intake pipe I was getting a decent amount of oil blowing into my turbo that I want to eliminate. I am going to give this system a shot for now at least and see what I think.

 

Thanks for ALL of your replies! Definitely some food for thought

 

then you had a dirty oil seperator system and cleaned it. I think basically what Indiana is saying is that if you have a properly working STOCK system, then you have no need for the Krank Vents. they are just expensive PCV valves.

[Caliber308]

They work "FOR MY SET UP"!!! And that's all the information I need. If they didn't, do you think for one minute I would be running them on a engine that has as much money in it as I have invested??? If you don't agree, or don't like the concept.....DON'T USE THEM!!! It's as simple as that. All that I have given in this post is my feedback as to how they work for me. If others don't see it the same way....DON'T USE THEM !!!!!!

 

CALIBER 308

Edited November 29, 2008 by Caliber308