eeaston Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Got a price for a 304 4into1 1-3/4 16 gage slip collector? Burns stainless is $310 :shock: I've been making my own collectors, but SPD exhaust shows 1-3/4" collectors for $245 ($206 "jobber" pricing). That's a single-slip style. Their double-slip collectors are in the $300-350 range, and 321ss is only 15-20 more. http://www.spdexhaust.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNZTuning Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 since we are sharing prized vendors here, check out: http://store.racing-solutions.org/ I think I can match/beat a lot of his pricing on bends, etc. Send me a list of commonly ordered parts if you're interested and I'll hit you back with pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Alot of the pics won't work for me Chad and I'm really interested in going down this route with my Evo turbo, if there's enought length I need to bring mine a bit further forward(UK car) and have a split mounting plate for the turbo. How did you work out the length for pulse and how do you go about starting to arrange the piping? I have loads of bends and my flanges cut but just need to work out length and man up to piping it all up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmandsm Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 wow old trend back to life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted February 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 Alot of the pics won't work for me Chad and I'm really interested in going down this route with my Evo turbo, if there's enought length I need to bring mine a bit further forward(UK car) and have a split mounting plate for the turbo. How did you work out the length for pulse and how do you go about starting to arrange the piping? I have loads of bends and my flanges cut but just need to work out length and man up to piping it all up. I used 2 different and unrelated methods for pipe length, and they both came to nealry identical figures. I set a HP peak of 6500 RPM and used the cam card spec for the cam I use. the magic number is about 31" at 1-3/4" OD tubing, or about 23" on 2" OD tubing. http://webpages.charter.net/catsamuel/DCP01017.JPG I honeslty don't know if your turbo will make full use of these benifits, it may be better to use a smaller more compact headder to keep the heat in the charge. tuned lenght makes good sence and there is a reason I make them and run one myself, but if you are loosing heat in the exhaust stream, you are wasting a lot of potential energy. It would be a negitive net gain on a street-driven setup with a turbo of that size.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Do you think wrapping will make any significant difference to keeping the heat and expanding gasses at peak? I have a TD05HRA now but can get the 18g from later Evo's aswell. Both have the split hot side. Cam wise I have a TEP cam but no idea of its duration which I guess I'll have to find if I am to calculate mine correctly. Have you had many problems with cracking and have you supported the weight of the turbo anywhere to reduce this? Many thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Wrapping will help with turbo responce, it will increase the turbine temps quite a lot, probalby 300* or more on a really high pressure setup. Any turbo headder material will be "cooked" if you wrap it, Inconel is probalby the only metal that will survive that kind of heat long term. Wrapping is very common and reccomended on race cars, just understand it comes at a cost (to the longevity of the headder). Real race cars also have budgets to replace parts on a frequent basis, so obviously they will wrap their headders and accept the costs. 321 stailness is better than other grades, but it too can be damaged by excess heat over time. The headder has a support rod to the motor mount, you can't see it in the pictures. I've made 2 of that design, but neither has been driven much (drag only cars), so no word on cracks. it is belived that TEP supplies schneider cams, so if anyone has the same duration in a schneider, see if you can get info off therir cam card. I have schneider cam cards for a hydrolic 284, and a mechanical 284/292 (split duration). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted February 13, 2010 Report Share Posted February 13, 2010 Yeah I've seen how wrapping on thinner or poor quality headers just eats the metal away but had no idea how aggressive it can be even on thicker materials. have you seen a FULLRACE header up close? They're using cast bends and thick wall straights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 A word of caution about wrapped headers... if oil gets on the wrap be prepared to extinguish a fire! Thankfully I'm not speaking from experience.Innovative design Chad & keep up the great work!!Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Have you tried this out on the road or dyno yet Chad, really interested to see the results in power and how the header holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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