Professor Quest Posted November 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 The red Xs indicate where the rear main oil seal rides. If polishing it won't cut-it, then it will need welded and reground. Note the dowel pin in the 88 crank. Unfortunately Mitsu parts CD has the wrong dowel pin number and size. It list it as an 8mm. It's 10mm. : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 Professor, I've never seen fillets like that before what do you think caused that skip in the radius ? Is that a virgin crankshaft ? ;D You know those cranks are gigantic in comparison to other Mitsu cranks... Standing a crank on end is the best way store them (if your not prone to knocking things over) Just sit them in an out of the way corner of your work area so you don't trip on them. The weight of the crank itself lying on it's side without proper support under the mains can by itself bend a crank. I agree knocking them over doesn't do them any good either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 Keep watching.........and reading and watch for modifications. You'll see the machines that do all this. Even proper storage. For now..........lay your crank down...........in your bed. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010001.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 As you take your engine apart.......wipe down the bearings  AS YOU REMOVE THEM and take a magic marker (permenant type) and note the location they came from. We'll use them again for some measuring. U=upper L=lower R=rod C=cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010002.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 Stray metal can come from the damnest places..............and it DID. Always lube the underside of the MAIN BOLT HEADS before you torque them down and a few drops of oil, NOT STP.......on the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010003.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 This MAIN BOLT started to lock up. It should screw ALL the way down until the threads recess into the block WITH YOUR FINGERS. Â And I was having such a nice day. : Hard to tell in the pic but the threads are damaged. I know that's a little out of focus.........but trust me........there is some IRON from the threads GROUND into the bolt. If I had tried to run that bolt all the way down...........I'd be HELICOILING the BLOCK. : This is at least TWICE I have encounterd this on 2.6 engines! Those of little faith about tapping the main holes when there is no reason........will see what happens when I "dial indicate" the threads in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010007.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 The threads are SO FINE on these bolts.........any contamination gets stuck in the threads and DAMAGES BOTH the BLOCK and the BOLT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P10100130.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 The ONE thread in the block was not looking the best. Time for the GOOD STUFF.......UNION BUTTERFIELD 12mm X1.25 "bottoming tap" and die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P10100080.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 Always install the bolt in a vise....................NOT THE DIE! USE A LUBE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010010.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P10100170.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 Threads are perfect now. ;D The main caps are ALIGNED by pressing into the block. Note the RED AREA. Continue reading for the RIGHT WAY to draw down the main caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P10100180.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 ALWAYS place a few DROPS of oil on the RED AREA. Do the same to the MAIN CAP where it contacts this point. You want the MAIN CAPS to seat correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/plastic%20gage%20mains%202.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 Time to get an idea of what the bearing clearance is. This is  GREEN "PLASTIGAGE". It measures bearing clearance from .001 to .003 Install the old bearings to do this. Place the PASTIGAGE on all 5 mains just like in the picture. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK. A few drops of oil on the threads and under the head. Follow the procedure for TORQUING DOWN THE CRANK on page 9-65. Draw down the caps SLOWLY........remember the caps need to ALIGN THEMSELFS IN THE BLOCK as you draw down the bolts. Alternate tightening the bolts a little at a time so the cap pulls down STRAIGHT. Then torque to 10lbs.......then 20lbs.... then 30lbs....then 40lbs and finally......55lbs. Now SLOWLY take it back apart and read the PLASTIGAGE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P1010019.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted November 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 That's about .0018 to .0019 just under .002 which is not bad with old bearings. Checking the front main is important because they tend to "HAMMER" the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 24, 2004 Report Share Posted November 24, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarPauser/P10100160.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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