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Let's build a MOTOR.....Pics.


Professor Quest
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I'm using a "TEST ROD" here. What's a test rod? It's a spare or NA 2.6 rod that you can pick up from the machine shop. Have them hone the wrist pin hole for a "SLIP-FIT" wrist pin. A red magic marker can show you your handy work. Take your MILL FILE and GENTLY radius the corner. After that, massage it with some 600-1000 grit sand paper. This will make this corner VERY SMOOTH and eliminate any burrs. Do the samething to the rod cap. When reassembled, you have a very tiny groove here. When you assemble WITH bearings........this will relieve any pressure caused by the two bearing halfs as they draw together. If you ever taken apart a motor and seen a shiny spot on the bearings at the parting line.........this is the reason. ;) It just LOOKS WIDE because of the RED.
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Note there is a .040 oil squirter in the side of the rod. (this engine is like a sprinkler-head. No surprise it has low oil pressure.) This hole lubes the cylinder way. With OIL SQUIRTERS..........you gotta ask yourself.......is this OVER-KILL? Make sure you blow air threw it or a paper clip just before assembly.
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That's my "TEST ROD". That took about 2 minutes to do. You can support the rod in a vice........or support the SANDER in the vise and move the rod. How far and slick should you go? Remove enough material until it's flat. How shiney? That's up to you. With finer paper you could make it look like CHROME. You can also do the lower area as well. JUST BE CONSISTANT. Pick up some junk rods at the machine shop and experiment till you think you have a SYSTEM. Ford, Chevy, whatever. The rods WILL NEED BALANCED to make them all weigh the same again and the crank as well.
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86-87-88- rods. The center piston is a new "Top Line" cast, .020 over. Note the wrist pin.    PA  C-23T.  Turbo designated pistons. Stock CR. Will stand shoulder to shoulder with Mitsu's. About $150 a set w/rings. Compaired to $400 for forged. Can you tell the 86 had an injector problem? :o NOTE that the center rod has GREY nuts. These are NEW, installed by MOST machine shops during the rod recon process. The rod nuts FATIGUE. They are USUALLY marked on ONE SIDE.
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Nice pics so far.

 

A little trick to getting the head dowels out is to cut a few threads with a sparkplug tap.  I have an old sparkplug with a bolt and washer threaded into that.  I screw the plug/bolt assembly in the dowel and pry it out.

 

I will probably have to make another one though because it seems it has disappeared into a black hole in my toolbox along with a few other small tools.

 

I like your idea of the freeze plug removal.  I always punch in and pull them out with vise grips, but it's a real pain on the small plugs.

Those brass freeze plugs look great.  I'll be using those next time.

Where do you get them?

 

Rich

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Alot of machine shops carry ROCK. They are "LOW BUDGET" parts, as far as I can tell. You gotta watch their gaskets. You know those little SKINNY DRAWERS at the top of you tool box?  Try this..........Take a few empty oil quarts and cut them done so the just clear the opening of the box. I filled two complete drawers with them. I refuse to look for tools. The clock is always running. ;) I like your BUSHING removal. I'll give that a shot. ;D
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 Meanwhile..........back on the rods.........If you POLISH.....mark the rod on the sides (see pic) you don't want to sand off the MARKS. ;) REINSTALLING the bolts: Gently tap the RIGHT bolts down a little, install the CAPS and the NUTS and DRAW the bolts the rest of the way in and TORQUE THEM to 40 lbs. This SHOULD (if you installed the bolt right) SEAT the BOLT. Many rod nuts bear some kind of marking on ONE SIDE. Usually.....the mark is installed on the bolt so that you can SEE the mark. DO NOT INVERT THE NUTS!!!
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Completed rod chamfer. If this motor was turning 8,000 rpm.........that chamfer would be 3 times as wide and deep. This area, under EXTREEME rpm PINCHES the rod bearings................because the cap wants to go SOUTH while the rod is moving NORTH.........there-by creating a PINCH where the bearings join. ;)
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