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UltimateLurker
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I'll be updating this thread as the repaint evolves....

 

Start:

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97347/

 

I know, I know, your question is "why?".  Well, the car looks good in pix, but not so good upclose, at last count I had 117 dings in it (hail damage).  Secondly, the car is about 25 different shades of red/pink because of various idiotic previous owner moves, chief among these would be the guy that spray-painted the mirrors, rear bumper, front airdam and spoiler.  The original owner had the drivers fender, passenger quarter, and roof fixed at some point and had them CLEAR COAT only those panels, which was beyond stupid because the rest of the car had no clearcoat (R04 didn't come with clear coat from the factory), so the clearcoated panels didn't fade much at all but the rest of the car was shades of pink >:(.

 

Here is a rundown of what will be done...

 

1. Wash

2. Degrease (using PPG 330 Enamel Reducer)

3. Remove stickers and rock guards

4. Mark all dings with an "X"

5. Take 400 grit sandpaper and a big block to the ding area revealing the high/low spot

6. Apply 80 grit scratches to ding, blow clean and Fill with filler

7. Spray Guide Coat and Block spots to make sure no additional filler is needed

8. DA 180 the edges, and apply finess filler, sand to desired level

9. Sand entire car and apply sealer & let set (suck in)

10. Block every panel down with 600 and fix any more spots

11. Primer (2 coats)

12. Paint (2 coats)

13. Clear (3 coats)

14. Sand the clear to the desired "orange peel"

15. Buff

 

Along the way, I'll also be installing a pristine '83 hood that I recently aquired, and a new front airdam.  I'll also be removing the third wiper/washer and antenna because they're never used.

 

1-6 is done at this point, and I'll be updating the thread as the rest are done, enjoy the pix...

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97349/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97350/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97351/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97352/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/97747/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/99363/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/99364/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/100597/

 

http://gallery.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/imageview/103984/

 

 

What you're trying to do is first; locate the ding, second; reveal it, third; fill it, and fourth; bring it (sand it) back down to the same height as the surrounding area so when it's painted it'll appear smooth.  

 

The 2 problems you'll have fixing dings is 1.) Sanding the surrounding area too much and therefore "lowering" it, and 2.) Having the filler "suck in" or "lower" once its dried.  

 

To keep #1 from happening you need to sand in several directions and use a block as much of the time as possible.  Treat an area that's 4 or 5 inches around the ding, not just where the ding is.

 

For #2, you just have to let it set for a while in some heat, leave the lights on and make sure it's pretty warm in the stall.  Let is set for a few days like that and the filler will set up well, then apply your Guide Coat and sand the filler to the height of the surrounding area.

 

More updates to come...

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I certainly hope you and others will benefit from it, after I'm done with it I'll detail every step.

 

The way I figure it, bodywork isn't really that hard...but it costs a LOT, so Starquesters can do most of the work themselves, then take it to a bodyshop for the spray and it'll cost a LOT LESS and they'll feel better about the finished product.

 

My final analysis/explanation will be VERY indepth.

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 I assume you are keeping it red, right? You might want to consider doing some form of pearlcoat on top of it to make it uniqe (unless you are addamant about keeping it stock). You could do a copper or red pearl. I painted my 16V VW Scirrocco guards red (porsche color) with a red pearl. It stood out well, but was subtle enough to not be too flasshy. Copper would be a little flashier.  

  When do you plan to have it done? I will be repainting mine in the spring. Black with House of Kolors cobalt blue pearl.

 I will definately be watching this thread.

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Yes, factory R04 Mexican Red.  I considered doing something special to it, but my goal is to make the car appear as stock as possible until the hood is opened.  I've gone out of my way to keep the interior bone stock as well, 'cept for the in-dash mounted boost guage which I saw as a necessity.  I should be done in a month or so, I only get to work on it on the weekends, and I'm in NO hurry...it'll be as perfect in real-life as it looks in all my pictures and also finally be worthy of its mileage.
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Which explains why most of my engineering friends at Thomson, Cummins, and Motorola are more anxious about losing their jobs than a long-tailed cat in a room filled with rocking chairs.

 

One of the last great moments of American Engineering occured on July 20th, 1969.

 

 

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It's a double edged sword tho.  W/out the funding of the US companies (using the example of the conquest) mitsu would not have sold as many cars.  Mitsu did make money off the cars sold by Chrysler, directly and indirectly.

 

However, I agree wholeheartidly that it is sad to see our companies selling out for an easy buck, eliminating jobs and only benefiting the stockholders (which is a minor benefit finacially) and the higher-ups in the corporation.  

 

Good example, the new Pontiac GTO.  It's made in AUSTRALIA!!!!  Nothing against Aussies, but why couldn't that have been made here in the 48?????  While it may be a an unsuccessful attempt anymore, I do buy american if it supports american workers.  But what does anymore?  For example, I bought a Kyocera cell phone (in part) because it was made in US.  However the components were built overseas.  

 

Very sad to see corporate america sell out american workers.  I still believe in what Henry Ford said (rough quote here, not exact) "I cannot afford to build a car that my employees cannot buy."

 

pen

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I hate Chrysler and I won't have their name on my car.  As a matter of fact, I hate all rich thieves that buy technology instead of making it themselves, which would be ALL of the Domestic auto manufacturers.  Badge engineering is for C**K S****RS.

 

:).

 

Damn right. Funk Chryslers  made later than 1975.  Mitsubishi dammit.

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Good to see the progress , youve already came along futher than I expected. Its kind of ashame that youll have it done in Jan. but wont be driving it till around march.  :P

 

Corey told me this morning about the hood score... Your a Punk..

 

 

Steven

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Yeah, I just got my hood last night, and man is she a BEAUTY!!  I mean, this hood has like 2 little dings in it that can be fixed in like 1 minute...lol.  I was also surprised to find ZERO rust, and that is still has the heat shield.

 

For those of you that don't know, I just scored a perfect '83 hood, unfortunately I had to pay $475 for it, but to me, it was worth it.

 

UPDATE:  After sanding the hood for 3 hours I've found that it has been repainted twice and worked for dings at least once, but it still has ZERO rust, which was the big thing for me 'cause I hate rust.  The picture with the numbers on it is of one of the high spots in the hood.  9 layers of paint, wow.

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Can't wait to see your car. I know it will be perfect.  Yea! your right, it takes a lot of time and money to do it right.  Let me know when you want to do the clutch.  You'll be very proud to drive that ride.  TMeitz
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
UPDATE:  After sanding the hood for 3 hours I've found that it has been repainted twice and worked for dings at least once, but it still has ZERO rust, which was the big thing for me 'cause I hate rust.  The picture with the numbers on it is of one of the high spots in the hood.  9 layers of paint, wow.

 

Haha..  9 layers of paint..  I know the feeling.  I stripped a hood on my 78' 280z with about the same.  Talk about time consuming, tedious work stripping and prepping that hood.

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  • 3 months later...

I was gonna say, this thread started awhile ago....

 

For real, hurry up wit da paint homie... I wanna see some timeslips of that big 16Gizzie 8) ;) ;D

 

edit: Another thing... I can't find a imported for chrysler sticker on my 88 ???... I also noticed that my sunroof isn't tinted, but there's a red(i'm R04 too) layer on the underside, with little holes in it...

 

I want some tint >:(.. Can this crap be taken off? :P

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UL,

 

I've got a tip for you on your rock strike areas.

 

When we repainted by '87 Starion (black), we did not order the strike strips. They're overpriced and are prone to spiderweb. They also don't cover the impact area below the fender angle behind the rear wheels.

 

Instead, my restorer sprayed the areas with a substance he called Rock Guard, but after talking with other older vehicle owners, "Rock Guard" is apparently a trademark that goes with a product that has a less-than-stellar reputation for longevity and resistance to pitting. I don't know exactly what product we used; if it was Rock Guard, I would recommend it highly.

 

The advantage is that you can put it wherever you want in whatever shape you like, because it is sprayed on. We first spayed a few coats of black paint. Then, we used it aft of the rear wheels, and sprayed under the fender angle, so that the undercarriage part of the rear fenders was protected. We then painted over it.

 

The result was that I have protected areas on my car that you don't really notice; they don't stand out like those old stick-on strike guards do. It also doesn't pit or chip, and it was cheaper than buying the guards again.

 

Jess

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  • 3 weeks later...
Great point Jess.   Yes that RockGuard stuff is tough!   I was thinking about using it on my full undercarraige.   THe stuff acts like a powdercoat.

 

kev

 

Is it heat resistant?  I plan on stickin' a 3" exhaust under there and the longer it lasts the better.  I'd like to protect it with something, and I'm not one for polish over performance so it doesn't matter to me.  I had thought about some RhinoLiner for the undercarriage but the weight would be too much.

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