derrickmd18 Posted June 19, 2005 Report Share Posted June 19, 2005 check your battery compension setting. also check your crank sensor wirespull on them a little to make sure they are in the connectors. I had this problem 2 weeks ago the ground wires to the crank sensor came outr a little and the car cut off. didn't figure out what it was until I brought a new sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted July 2, 2005 Report Share Posted July 2, 2005 something weired is going on with my setup. for the past few days, in a couple of occasions when i have turned off the car after its been at normal operating temp and tried to start it back up a few minutes later i heard the injectors ticking before i started the engine. this is when i put the switch to ON and the engine was hot enough for the fan to turn on. so i went and disconnected the fan plug while it was doing that and the injectors stopped ticking. the fans are running on a differnt circuit of the batter. i dont see how this is affacting the TEC. the engine actually fluds when i do this and its hard to start so its spraying fuel when this happens. it has happend a few times but doesn't happen every time. any ideas? Did you ever solve this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 its not fixed yet. i checked all the wirings and seem to be good. I am however thinking there is an electrical problem related to the alternator. when i start the car, the battery light stays on for about 10 seconds until i give the engine a rev. I think it might be a combination of two problems. i think the alternator is on its way out and if the battery is low and the fan draws too much power, the TEC goes crazy. the battery is a new optima so it should be ok. the alternator gauges shows normal also. but when the lights are on at night and the engine idles, the lights dim a little. I will also have to take a look at that battery compensation seeting in the program. it might be too sensative or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted July 7, 2005 Report Share Posted July 7, 2005 if you put a volt meter on the batery what do you get? You should see from 12.8 to 14.8volts or so. I was trying to tune a car the other week and it would run great and then as soon as I came to a stop it wouldn't idle for crap. I looked at the volt meter it was reading 10.2 v.With all the electrical load we have on our cars and the crappy 90 Amp alternators if the system isn't 100% it can sometimes cause hard to find problems. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mingo1 Posted July 8, 2005 Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 My tec doesn't even work if it doesn't have more than 9.6 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 4, 2005 Report Share Posted August 4, 2005 Anyone know if the Tec II is setup to read a 5 volt signal from a wideband? I know it gives a 5 volt display on the data log but I'm not sure what the input voltage can be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Bump, anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 from what i remember, it can but i would give them a call just to be sure. they are very quick in returning phone calls if they are not out to lunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 11, 2005 Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 Art you are correct. I just got an email back stating that the only way it would be possible is if the Wideband was able to convert the signal back to narrow band form before it was input into the tech. Ohwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted August 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2005 have any of you guys tried to hook up the general purpose output to a solnoid and have it be the boost controller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 17, 2005 Report Share Posted August 17, 2005 No but I have hooked up the a ground to the map sensor to use as 2 step rev limiter/anti lag. It dosen't cut the coil/fuel as quickly as I would like so I can only generate 2 to 3 psi. Its still better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 went to the track yesterday. the car has serious problems at launch. i made a bunch of passes but i couldnt get one lunch without bogging.i couldnt even spin the rear tires. i dumped the clutch at 6000 and it still bogged. i think it has to be something with the enrichment factor. what do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 How does the car react on normal accel? If you don't spin the tires at a 6k launch there is certianly something wrong. I threw my drive shaft out and bent the trans main shaft on a 5k launch with street slicks. Will it free rev? Any idea what the air fuel is ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 i guess its easy to replicate the issue off track so i can datalog it. i will spend some time on it tomorrow. regular drive hasn't changed. rolling start cars hauls its the launch that kills it. there is another tuning hicup that might be related. if its rolling say at 2000rpm and i get on the gas quick. it boggs then goes. doesn't happens as much at higher rpm. it has to be somethign with accel or decel enrichment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 what size throttle body are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted August 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 standard 60mm ford 5.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 that shouldn't be a problem. I can look and see what my enrichments are if you want to compare. I know our set up is a little different but it shouldn't be too different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted November 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 fixed the hiccup. played with the TOG and IOT a bit. now drivability is prefect. however the fuel curve went to heck. its off-scale-rich as soon as boost comes on. I just got a 3 bar map so I can better tune for higher boost. i am having another problem though. when the car is hot to the point where the fan kicks in if the ignition is set to the ON position. the injectors start to pulse and flud the engine. i though it was a low voltage issue but i turns out to be EMF from the fan captured by the crank trigger sensor. if i disconnect the sensor, it doesn't happen. I think the portion of the wire that is attached to the sensor is already a shielded type. i may have to get different wires for the rest of the length. i cant remember what I used. maybe i can wrap it in thin foil. anyone else heard of a similar problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted November 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2005 talked to electromotive. they said the problem is with aftermarket fans and their lack of EMF shielding and there isn't much that can be done about it. even the tech support guy had a similar problem. he now has his Magnetic pickup sensor mounted in the back of the motor by the flywheel. i am going to install a bypass switch for the fan so that when i put the key at the ON position and trying to upload a program the system doesn't go nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 I deal in shielding a great deal in my trade (communications electrician) so I have a lot of real world experiance here. EMI can be almost completely eliminated by using a foil jacketed wire wtih an outer braid, the key is having ONE and only ONE end grounded to the neg potential(chassis). You could use fol wrap on the existing wiring, but you will find it probably easier to replace just the segment of cable between the connector of the sensor and ECU with a better shielded cable. One way to tes the viability of the shielding without having to re-do it, is to get some metal foil take and spiral wrap the harness, wtih atleast 50% overlap,and gound it at the EUC end by soldering or suing a crim connector of some sort. Be sure to continuity test it to ground, any less than 2 ohms is OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickmd18 Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 I found out some really interesting information about TEC 2 last night. I was tuning my car and I was getting a breakup at 15+ psi. I thought it was maxing out the injectors. wel I went and got a dyno pull and guess what the TEC2 was reading 11:1 AFR on the monitoring screen when actually it was WAY richer. the wideband stopped reading after 9:5.1 AFR and it was richer then that. but here is what i found interesting the monitoring screen AFR is off. if you datalog a pull it shows 10:1 AFR and won't show lower which is what it really should read. Just posting this for the TEC 2 guys. don't truse the monitoring screen datalog and review the log for actual AFR readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 So you are saying the data log was correct but the real time monitoring screen was off. That seems odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 Anyone using a knock sesnor with the Tec II? I'm know it has an imput of one I just don't know where to get a decent sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickmd18 Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 I'm runnig a knock sensor in my car. it works fine. just a signal and ground wire to hook up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 I'm runnig a knock sensor in my car. it works fine. just a signal and ground wire to hook up. Derrick, do you have a part number or any info on it? I'm thinking it may not be a bad idea when I start to turn up the boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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