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Electromotive TEC tips and tricks


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  • 4 months later...
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Negative Dave,

I went through the same crap. The only thing you get from Win tec is a "windows" based program rather than DOS and a few tune on the fly parameters. It has a nice graphical display for the advance and VE tables also. The only way you will be able t get it to work is with a windows 98 or earlier notebook and ture 9 or 25 pin serial port. Last spring I had to buy a used laptop off of ebay just to use for the Tec.

 

Kris, I had totally forgot that I may encouter problems with this but everything seems to be working ok. occasionally after downloading software to the TEC, the software stop communicating but all I have to do is quit and restart the wintec software.

 

I am using a dell C600 with a 9pin serial connector. its running XP SP2 and wintec 2.1.2

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Kris, I had totally forgot that I may encouter problems with this but everything seems to be working ok. occasionally after downloading software to the TEC, the software stop communicating but all I have to do is quit and restart the wintec software.

 

I am using a dell C600 with a 9pin serial connector. its running XP SP2 and wintec 2.1.2

So you are running WinTec on windows XP ?

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electromotive parts:

 

this guy on ebay sells good stuff.

 

upgraded end connectors (orange):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...mMakeTrack=true

 

standard end connectors (green)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...;category=33553

 

NEW fuel trim knob module.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...;category=33553

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have a tec 3 that is being installed in my 87 quest along with a custom intake.  My buddy Ric at RacingMazda.com is doing the install if yall have any q's I am sure he will be glad to answer.  His Miata is sponsored by electromotive.
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If it's the wasted spark that that's confusing the dyno then you should be able to tell the dyno it's a 2-stroke.  I was having the darndest time setting my timing with an advance timing light until I figured out that it was getting double the ign pulses.  Flip the switch over to 2-stroke and everything was fine.
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My stock tach would work until 5200 then it mysteriously droped out.  I'm now using an Autometer. I was affraid too hook up both at the same time.  I asked Electromotive and they gave me a PN for a tach adaptor but I wanted a shift light anyway.
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my latest program files are here in case someone needs them.

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/imag...CII/tecIIfiles/

 

in the injector parameter screen i had it set to fire every 2nd crank rotation and the fuel mixture was great on the wideband but the car seemed lazy at the low end.

 

changed it to "every" crank rotation and reduce the TOG to half and the car is much quicker now off boost and the fuel mixture doesn't seem any different. its weired.

its like the turbo shrunk.

 

i have made a lot of drivability changes in the programing since last weeks dyno session. i turned the boost down back to 9psi so i dont blow things up but everything seems good and the car is pretty quick even with little boost.

 

taking the car back to the dyno in a few days to get power tuning done.

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I have found a couple of document on the net that are worth reading if you have a TEC. they are subaru specific but there is some good non-car specific  tuning info there

 

http://www.vishnutuning.com/files/tecfaq.pdf

 

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/projectc...scc_projsubaru/

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I haven't had a chance to go down to the shop to check up on my car.  Hopefully I will get a chance this Thursday if I don't have to work.  The only thing is since someone else is installing and tuning my tec 3 I won't be much help.  
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heefner, i noticed that your fuel/timing graphs only go up to 6500 and your rev limiter is set to 6300.

 

I just went through my program and raised the maps to 7000.

i had the maps at 6000 and it was starting to act strange after that.

 

this graph has a lot of lag becuase of the injecotor firing order was set to every 2nd. but it still shouldn't have done that weired loop at the end after 6000rpm.

these are my preliminary three runs: around 9psi, 15 and 19psi.

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/1stdyno.jpg

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wont the tec propagate above and bellow the highest and lowest rpm value?  We came up with those numbers on the fly.  I think I will put a little more time into it when I retune it for the bigger turbo.

 

I'm assuming those pulls were done on 91 pump gas.  It looks like your right on track.  A little lean donw low but not bad.

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well, i think on the lower end, it figures the numbers between 0 and whatever the box is, say 1000. on the high end. there is nothing after the last box for it to take into accout and create the numbers in between.

 

yea its 91 octane. next tuning session should result in much better numbers.

i had serious lag that day due to the misconfiguration. it would barely reach 19 psi by 6000rpm.

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the car freaking got stuck. friday as i was going to get an oil change, i was making a left turn and took off real hard to avoid traffic. 2 seconds later the car started to work like crap and i barely made it to the shop. i pulled over and looked under the hood but everything was in order. i though the crank pickup had moved from the hard takeoff but it was fine. a few minues later i started it again and it was fine.

 

later i drove the car to a families house and worked on it a bit and then it started having the same issue. engine barely ran and wouldn't rev. so i had my tools and checked things. no spark on two cylinders. i though i had a bad coil. i switched the coils. same problem. check for power to the coil. DAMN. one of the power leads going into the coil from the TEC is not working. everything else is in place. took it appart and noticed the brain is in the lower half and the upper half contains the coil driver. I have to call them first thing in the morning and see and see what they suggest. I will probably have to send it in for repair. hopefully it wont cost and arm.

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That sucks!  :(  I was just looking through your A/F tables and noticed that you have them all set to 14.6.

I was told you should only mess with your VE table once to get it dialed in and then leave it alone unless you change injector size.  It takes a little extra time to set up your VE table to get them dead on but once you have that if you want to fatten it up or lean it out all you do is change the a/f value and its done. If you set them to the actual value you want.. say 12.3 at 2500 rpm and 100kpa map it makes it easier to change when tuning.    I've found its simpler and quicker that way.

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called electromotive. accoding to them one of the coil drivers is out. its basically a relay and they are visible from the bottom if you open the unit. the part is cheap but the labor isn't. a portion of the plastic seal has to be carved out. i asked them to change both while they are at it since this thing is over 12 years old and the other one might go out soon.

said it will be around $150. could have been worse i guess.

 

as for the tuning, i have given the o2 very little authority. That a/f mixture graph is more for drivability since all it uses is the o2 sensor reading. we have had very good results tuning with the VE table alone. actually if you change injectors, all you really have to readjust will be the injector offset and TOG.

 

hey, have you upgraded to the new crank wheel by any chance? i have one of the older ones.

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For $150 you could buy a megaquirt :D

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.  Seriously sorry about the crappy luck.  I hate when stuff doesn't work!  The coil drivers are probably FETs or a similar electronic "relay"  Do you think it may have been partly responsible for the werdness in your dyno chart?

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  • 4 weeks later...

supposedly after further diagnosis. it did turn out to be an intermitent problem with the coil(s). one was almost dead, one was on its last leg. they gave the ECU a clean bill of health.

 

I just got the unit back. the new coils they put on are larger than the previous ones and seem a lot heavier ;). my TEC II was 12-13 years old so i guess they upgraded them lately.

 

charged me $70 for two coils and $70 for labor.

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