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i/c and intake plumbing


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well it seems i may have found a solution for myself to bypass my issue of intercooler and intake plumbing  maybe someone else might find this handy (i'm trying to get mpi done as fast and cheap as possible)

 

i got some ridiculous quotes on hard pipes for my car.

 

and it appears this will be just as good if not better

 

many scca cars use these silicone pipes (samco sells similiar products for wrx   :'( and lancer)

 

pegasusauto.com i believe is the site and look at pdf page 64

 

anyways

 

for now i need a car so i'm going to just do turbo to i/c and get extra later for when my mpi is completely finished (i need a car now since wrx is wrecked and i'm fighting to get 6-8k for repairs from the        's insurance)

 

but ya it appears i can get 2.25"x1 meter of silicone hose for 79.99$

 

and 45 and 90 degree silicone elbows for 44.99 and 39.99$ respectively (elbows are approx 4" long)

 

they also have spicing       s for 18.99 a piece (to have a hard section in splices) and lines clamps for 1.99$ from them

 

but i had issues w/ the stock lines blowing off so these connectors are probably what i'll end up getting when i finish the car - www.py-thon.com

 

i believe they run somewhere from 30-40$ a connector but they look sick!

 

also this pegasus place sells parts to make ss braided lines... not sure if their prices are cheaper than the hydraulic supply store around here... but in one of the pdf pages they show you how to connect the lines to the couplers and how to cut them properly and such.

 

 

i have a question since i won't see my car til later today but i forgot my keys so i prolly won't see if for a week or 2 (no car to get to it anymore)

 

but does anyone know approx length needed to do turbo to i/c?

 

and also i/c to magna intake

 

thanks

andy

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If you want actual "hard" pipes, go to http://www.burnsstainless.com and buy an aluminum mandrel bend or two, cut and weld(or have welded) your pipes.  It should be cheaper than gettin it in Silicone...Stainless is also available.

AL is alot of $$$ would be a good 400+ for the parts i bet any how I would use steel if on a buget and paint them or polish them and clear coat them or something.

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why dont you buy aluminized exhaust piping from summit racing. its like 12bucks for 4 feet of it. or go to an exhaust shop.  have them bend it how you want it. no welding just use silicone couplers at the joints like they sell with hard pipe kits.  so say 20 bucks in supplies then another 20 or so to get the exhaust shop to bend them like you want and with the couplers(you can get on ebay) your out for less then 100 bucks.
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AL is alot of $$$ would be a good 400+ for the parts

 

If you check the link, you'll see that a 180 degree(2x90) U-bend is about $40, about the cost of a 90 degree silicone elbow.  You could do the turbo to IC with no more than two u-bends and a few feet of straight

 

Steel would definately be lots cheaper(I think I've seen them for as low as $8-$10) , but I'd still make it from mandrel bends welded together.  Most exhaust shops do press bends instead of mandrel bends, which reduce the area of the pipe pretty badly.  Check out lloydxmas' gallery on http://www.26liter.us/dugallery/default.asp He's got some nice pipes... Don't forget to share with the group what you come up with!

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why dont you use PCV piping? i have seen it used to it doesnt melt or anything.

 

there are also more silicon and nitrile connectors here:

www.turbonetics.com

click on catalog on the left, then scroll down and click on accessories.

 

there is also more pipes and connectors here:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/hackertweekerparts.htm

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ya only reason i am thinking about the silicone is coz the ONE shop around here that does mandrel bending wants in excess of 400$ to do it all, and they are around 40 miles away.

 

so silicone will be the way to go for me... i figure i can get it done easier that way (silicone will bend where as still will not.  so i don't have to be as precise w/ all the bends anyways)

 

 

that and i need it done very NOW'ish....

 

i figure on doing turbo to i/c in silicone first since my mpi isn't near finished yet and my rex is wrecked.  

 

 

then later do i/c to mpi

 

i'd kinda rather do steel but at this point for myself silicone looks like the way to go for me.  just offering the link for others to check out

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actually the funny part about what you just said is that NO exhaust shop around here had any clue of what a mandrel bend was... would you want to take your vehicle to a place that you had to describe what a mandrel bend was and then being told that it's impossible to bend a pipe in such a way that it doesn't crush?
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its ridiculous

 

i have a pipe bender, but only crush bends so actually i could do that myself, but i'd prefer a smooth walled solution, and actually that silicone will make little tight bends w/o a problem.  Only thing i'd see that i may have to do is put a sleeve on it where it's gonna run next to the radiator

 

still haven't gotten to taking my grill off yet to see what i'll need :/

 

actually i haven't gotten near the car for longer than it took to remove the alternator and sway bar

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  • 2 weeks later...

wow that's a pretty good idea.

 

 

i decided actually that i'm gonna buy some pipes from shelby (he's a nice guy and everyone should give him money).  But for i/c to mpi manifold i'm going the silicone route (no doubt)... it'll be a lot easier to snake that around a battery than trying to bend steel

 

 

peace

 

tux

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  • 1 month later...
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