BORICUAQUEST87TSI Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 ??? HY! THIS ONE IS FOR MAGNA INTAKE STRAQUESTS OWNERS! HOW DO I RELOCATE THE OIL DEEPSTCK WITH THE MPI SET UP? ANY PICS SUGGESTIONS? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 We made a small bracket for the dip stick, and connected it too the intake bolt. http://66.110.213.200/Image%20file/FV03/DSC03469.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitestarion Posted July 30, 2003 Report Share Posted July 30, 2003 I did mine very similar to Lizzord's. I ground the stock bracket off the dipstick tube and re-brazed it in a position so it would bolt up to the plenum/runner bolt of the Magna. It took all of ten minutes. Luke's looks very good though, so what ever you feel comfortable doing. Dave C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 Dave who are you buddy? I for one had no idea you were in the middle of a MPI swap let alone complete with it. did I miss the post with all the details or are you not sharing yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitestarion Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 Seven month complete project from paint to interior to redoing entire drivetrain and suspension. I now have a 88 Starion that is nearly flawless inside and out. I haven't posted much on the boards, but have appreciated the site and the members who make this an excellent resource. I had the car for six years(completely stock) and just had to make a decision to get rid of it or see what I could turn it into. Ultimately, I am very pleased with my decision to rebuild it. If anyone cares, I have done the following: Completely stripped the trim and professionally painted factory white TEP engine: JE ceramic coated forged, balance shaft eliminator kit, ARP bolts and studs, peened and polished rods, hardened crank, balanced, non jet valve head, SS valves, port/polish, heavy duty valve springs, TEP cam Ceramic ball bearing T3/T4 South Florida Performance Header 3" Exhaust Magna Intake with 72lb injectors Haltech engine management MSD 6A ignition Bosch red coil Spearco Intercooler 3 row radiator Bosch 550hp fuel pump Braided SS fuel line from tank to fuel rail TEP lowering springs Tokico shocks all the way around gas slotted rotors with SS braided brake lines Front and rear strut tower supports with battery in rear Polished 8's and 9's (Thanks Mark) All new tie rod ends, drag link, etc. Rebuilt 89 5 speed transmission (still temperamental shifting) Flawless black leather interior (tan originally) 6 disc CD changer in trunk Rockford Fosgate speakers front and back I have about 2500 miles on it and it is down for a few days to port the internal wastegate. I had it on the dyno and pulled 372 ft lbs at the wheels at 20 psi but it wouldn't hold the 20psi and it would want to steady state at 15psi Consequently my horsepower wouldn't increase with rpm as the torque naturally drops off. Horsepower was 270 at the wheel at 15 psi. I think I can achieve 330 to 340 hp if I can get it to hold 20psi. I should know if porting the wastegate will help the boost differential, soon. I plan on throwing it back on the dyno when I am finished and will post the results here on the boards. Thanks for asking, Dave C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 Sweet you have a well built car their, What kind of RPMS does it pull too, what are your cam specs, What size are your pipes? I would HIGHLY recomend a Tital External waste gate, and also think Dumping it is the best way. What kind of intake and exhaust wheels and AR's you have on your t3/t4? I have a 60-1 HIFI, with stage 3 exhaust wheel. Do you have any Dyno sheets we can look at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 very nice, time to quit being so stingy with the details now ;D we want to know all about it. is your cam degreed, a dyno sheet to study your torque curve would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 Turn the dipstick like the first post picture. Next, see the bend where the dipstick bends on the bottom, put that in a vice and carfully streighten it out. Last, tweak the bracket so it folds around to reach the first bolt on the magna. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 The problem dosen't seem to be your wastegate, it sounds more like your exhaust or boost controler. Usually if the wastegate is too small you will experience boost creep. Ie. you're boost will continue to rise at high rpm's regardless of what its set to. What size exhaust are you running and are you running a cat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 very nice, time to quit being so stingy with the details now  ;D we want to know all about it.  is your cam degreed, a dyno sheet to study your torque curve would be nice. No doubt man! Where did this guy come from? He's been hiding thinking "you just wait , I'll show ya!!" ;D ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 In theory if he has a weak spring on his waste gate the exhaust back pressure would force the valve too open before full boost has been reached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted August 1, 2003 Report Share Posted August 1, 2003 He's not having trouble building boost he's having trouble holding it. Â Which really makes no sense. Â My bet is the boost controller, if electronic, isn't hooked up right or tuned properly, and if it's a manual, well, if it's a manual get an electronic. edit: I should say it makes no sense from the sound of your setup. Could be timing or anything up high making it slow down. how confident are you that the Haltech is set up really well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted August 2, 2003 Report Share Posted August 2, 2003 A crappy tune would usually build boost until the wastegate swings open no matter what. I can do 18psi at 15deg timing, or 28deg. One takes longer than the other, but peak boost is hit. The wastegate shouldn't be a problem. If it won't hold boost past a certain level I would look at things that could leak boost when alot of force is behind it. BOV's, Bypass valves, Couplers, hoses, pipes and gaskets. Porting the wastegate will not solve your problem. If it does, its because you found the leak and inadvertantly fixed it. If its a 1G bypass your using, throw it out or crush it so it doesn't pop off at 15+. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitestarion Posted August 2, 2003 Report Share Posted August 2, 2003 Thanks for the input guys, I do apprecate it. As we speak I just finished building my 3" downpipe last night. I had a 3" exhaust from the main cat back and I will have it 3" all the way after this weekend. As far as porting the wastegate. I have had mixed opinions about whether that would help my problem. I called turbonetics and one tech guy said port the wastegate and the other said it would not help. Steve Nelson at TEP also suggested porting the wastegate. Who knows. I will have it back together this week and I guess I'll find out if it helped. I could definetly see how it could help boost creep. However, if the hole is too small and the initial burst of air before the controller can get control is causing the problem, maybe it will help. As far as the boost controller, I am running an HKS EZ. I also tried a manual boost controller and no change. I am running an HKS racing bypass valve. I would think it would take an awful large leak in the system to have a 5 to 6psi drop considering your pushing about 650 cfm through the system at full throttle and 20psi. When I did my overhaul, I put all new vaccuum lines on and I double checked the setup of the electronic controller. Pretty straightforward with just three hoses to hook up. As far as tuning the Haltech, when I had it on the dyno I was running about 12.5 to 12.9 AFR throughout the run at WOT. The only thing that bothers me about my setup is the SS braided flex section I have in my downpipe. I don't like the way the inside of it is very corrogated and I could see how I could get a significant amount of turbulence in that section. The problem is with the SFP header I really need to run the flex section to take the load off the header welds when the engine is shifting around. The downpipe I built this week has a 3" SS braided flex section compared to my previous 2 1/2" section. Maybe the larger diameter will help. Thanks for your suggestions and if anyone has had any experience with a boost drop and a remedy I would like to hear it. Thanks, Dave C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted August 2, 2003 Report Share Posted August 2, 2003 It may be a blown diaphragm in the actuator. It'll intialy hold boost or might not, then boost creep at upper RPMs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted August 4, 2003 Report Share Posted August 4, 2003 sounds like the cam could be out of synch or your wastegate is pulsing boost out. An exhaust leak will decrease your boost likewise. I've had WG pulse open from not enough preload. Would hit 10psi and work down to 6 psi. A faulty diaphram as mentioned could do it too. Have you ran it without the boost controller on the WG baseline? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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