j5

I have a Magna multiport intake manifold with fuel rail with an SDS EM4F with ignition for sale it is not a complete kit. kit was installed in 2004 and car was running until car was stored 2 years ago and removed 2 days ago. Car was sold. missing: Sync and trigger magnets (get them from SDS) fuel injectors throttle body fuel pressure regulator. Had to get rid of the Starion because of growing family. SDS has LCD programmer and fuel dial includes 4bar sensor, water temp sensor, air temp sensor and Harness, stand alone ignition You may want to get new harness from sds if you find it too short. Asking $900 or offer. (Im in Hawaii) e-mail me j5_jeffrocks@yahoo.com

Got a co worker with his dad's R32 real nice. Said it was fast. He see's me getting into red one evening and asks how many HP doe's red have. I always reply 188hp(stock hp) though its been punched out .040 over and a couple of goddies added. I forget to tell him about. You wanna go for a run? He ask. We drove over whats left of the volcano into thirteen turns. He was in fronton the way down and couldn't shake me. Though his exit speed was a bit faster than mine but I closed the gap on the short streights when they showed up. This kid lives on this side of the island so he runs this everyday to work. Up hill I knew my advantage was on the long streights, I'll admit I am pretty crappy on mountain roads maybe I'm too careful but I floored it on the streight section going uphill hitting 120 before getting on the binders for the right hand turn. I had to do this to put as much gap as possible between him and me. The tyres were cold, and are rated at 320A dry weather. Wet mossy conditions here due to 190 inches of rain a year here on this mountain. The rear drive set up on my car is the disadvantage. But the torque I have and the larger 8 & 9 foot print I could use excellaration and decleration before the turn. His head lights were so far behind me it looked like one light. I drove as fast as could through the sections and finaly waited about 2 minutes untill he arrived on the other side. I told him the last guy I left behind here never showed up after this happen he was too disgusted by beeing beaten by a $600 car. I told him his car can beat mine if he wasn't scared of going fast as the car could go before the turn. there was no way to do that first turn above 55mph not even schumacher could do 55 on that turn. Its an off chamber turn with a steep crown. Thats why I put the gap on you knowing full well the streights and first turn is where my advantage is. I told him to take racing lessons first and lets race on open track day instead of this road. This kid is 16 years old. With his dads car.

I get that tick after a hard run, sounds like a colapsed lifter if it comes and goes.

Kinda looks like the spark was bigger due to two things, the center electrode being more exposed and the larger ground area providing a less resisstance making a bigger spark. The larger area of ground electrode may cause detonation under boost, it'll stay hotter longer. Who knows?

There was nothing wrong with the stock stuff when cleaned.

I know of one set here in Hawaii. We tried to bring it in but the whole sale cost was $1200 plus $300 to ship it to the U.S.A. and to make some profit was not feesable plus peeps on the board whining about how to bolt it on. (You chop about 6" from the bottom of the front strut drill a hole on the bottom of the spindle assembly and bolt the tube in) its still on the car today. The shock is rebuildable. Very nice unit. Try sourcing it from Canada I found a distributer there. We went through Singapor through a candy dealer. If you have to complain about the price of these parts then you shouldn't be in this sport. http://www.hotbits.ca/

It looks like a plain jane barb on both ends with a brass thing inserted in it with a very tiny hole. Vaccume hose restrictor.

Checker auto or autozone will have a 3/16th vacume barb it has a brass insert in it with a small hole.

Ok here was a presistant problem that came up soon after I rebuilt my MPI engine and now was solved after much frustration, almost lost street races and stumbling awkward moments during a run. Please forgive me for the long post I feel I should share my insight with my brothers and sisters here. I had this high rpm stumble that occurs at 5000 rpms no matter what boost I run. For a long time I blamed the stock cam for it. But recently I went back to sds's web sight on a hunch about a vaccume ristrictor for the MAP Vac/boost signal line. Now SDS said only put a ristrictor if you can not get a stable idle. I got a stable idle so I never saw a need for this ristrictor but installed it anyway. I took Red to the nearest on ramp and floored it and she revved past 6500 without a hiccup. I guess the boost signal fluctuated quite a bit to mess up the signal enough. A few days later the car stumbled on the road and started running rough, I thought it was the fuel going bad and ethenol dropping out and turning to water I added some gas treatment the problem was still there. I was wondering if it was the sds fuel programing or timing I had the car idling when I opened the glove box to reach for the base program map I had laying around and the car died. (I keep the Main computer bolted behind the Glove box) Well it was the ground wire which was a bit short on length and was not making good contact to the chassis so when I opend the glove box it broke contact shutting the car down. Easy fix. If your MPI car stumbles and falls on its face you might have compounded problems that cost near nothing to fix. Check your grounding wires. Read the trouble shooting guide you my have missed something. Here is the car set up I'm running (someone will always ask anyway) Red 88 conquest. Punched out .040 over JE pistons TEP ARP rod bolts ARP head studs Bal elim kit from Dad's Timing kit " " Astron MPI intake CHad's I think its been awhile SDS EM 4F MSD coil packs Free 18G turbo rebuilt becase of F.O.D. You know who you are monkey scrotum! Cost $125 for new repacement comppressor wheel stock cam yes they do rev past 5000rpms but make very little power above that. stock jv head with port job stock valves stock valve springs. The 88-89 valve springs do not float (at least mine does not at 6500rpms) Estimated HP on my but dyno is 260hp but my friends say its more I don't know never dynoed it.

I May move to the Bay area my car has no cats but I have access to one; How hard was it to pass smog with a MPI quest? What did you to the car? Thanks in advance for any info.

Have you inquired on how much to get it fixed? It maybe just a componant fix like what happened to my Haltech it cost $75 plus shipping and was out for only 7 days.

Has anyone replaced the crap rat belt to regular ones in their star quest?

Anybody using the top end tower strut bar with the magna intake? Or does it not clear at all? j5

For some reason the alighnment guy said the camber were out of spec. The car is not lowered maybe the struts are shot? Though they don't feel like it. I knowwhat bad shocks feel like, Â had them on my 87tsi. Maybe he doesn't know how much camber its suppose to run stock. pm me the cost of your rear camber plates plus shipping to 96707 please. Much Mahalo. j5

Anyboby got the mitsu part number for the stock rear isolators? Or any suggestions for aftermarket replacement? A thousand thank you in advance. j5

yup I'm using the stock tach with the DIS. Got the sds ecu.

Me thinks it feels like 230hp on the @ss dyno. fast enough for me. But I spanked a couple of wrxs' my @ss dyno might be wrong.

Not possible for the $1000 that is going for. What is wrong with it being bolted to the old housing? I'll inquire about it and see if it is all possible for a reasonable price if anyone is willing to pay for it. I would think it would be weaker if it was welded. You might be welding disimilar metals togeather. Don't know anything about welding. I'll keep you all posted. Thank you for your intrest. jeff

It is a steel housing you can weld it if you wish. The housing is finished in cadnium. i think aluminum would drive the price higher.

GOOD NEWS! The dude told me that the price for the struts are $1000 per set of four. Shipping not included. Shipping could cost $250 depending on your zip code. Who is in on it? Post up. j5

Adjustable hight. But if dampning you want we are not there yet. We are still trying to get an external dampning dial produced. Its gonna cost more than $2000 I can't afford that and I don't think alot of us could. People are already tripping at the price $1250 for a set. We are still trying to bring it down. Trying to get the manufacture to produce it is a pain in the a$$. We have to sell about 100 of the current set up for our cars then maybe they'll think about it. Maybe we could sell it without the springs? For now you have to send it back to the factory to add or delete the waffer valves, put in a different weight oil to adjust the dampning recharge the nitrogen gas. The shocks can be "tuned" if you want it. Rebound and compression are adjustable but you have to request it from the factory Then send it back to get them to do the tuning. Alot of trouble if you ask me. I'm still waiting for one person have it installed on his car for testing. The guy has not come back from his trip.(Our contact) He has been gone for a month now and no e-mail. As far as who makes them I was told by my contact that they are a small factory downunder building specialty parts for cars, mainly shocks and springs. Our contact didn't give me a name. All I know is the springs are made in germany. Heck they could be from germany for all I know. PM your e-mail or phone number so I can show him that a few people are interested. Maybe even disscuss and the shock design.

You are correct. The front struts were cut and the new struts slide in to the old housing and fixed with a large nylock nut and washer. Hella tight fit. Needed tools are a pipe cutter and a good drill.

They can be built to order. Custom damping. Or as is. What ever your desire is.

We do layaway ;D we realy do.

If you have to dial in your setup it would be alot easier to use Eibach ground control etc.. Something available here in the U.S. Only if you want a full race set up made. Yes you can use eibach springs. The springs used are german made. What diameter springs? 60mm dia. The ones we had tham make for us is a street/race version. 60mm dia. spring mono gas strut with a larger dia. slider. Heavy duty seals. warranty of 2 years. or 20k miles The only work you have to do is cut the tops of the old front struts off and drill the a hole on bottom bolt em in. Thats it