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4g64/63 Swap


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Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen that thread. Yes Im aware of the injector issue on the evo manifold, but it's nothing some welding and grinding can't fix. I have a mig welder with a spool gun I've been itching to use. If I were to cut the flange off for a 2g flange I'd take it to a buddy to be welded.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't made too much progress lately, but I did get some parts.


-2ga head so I can use the 2ga CAS

-Expo power steering pump. I think its the same as a 2g pump, but it will allow me to run the power steering pump off the harmonic balancer.

-Jay Racing thermostat relocation tube thing

-JDM Evo intake manifold


I should have so more pictures later this week because some stuff is still in the mail. Also, I'm not going to rush things like I originally planned so I'll buy new pistons when the time comes.







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I read a post on Austarion about the differences in heads. Did you have to do anything to make a 2g head work? Is it the same port sizes such as the Evo's have?


What kind of clearance do you have running the Evo intake manifold?


Like import said this is also giving me ideas. It is awesome you are doing that swap.

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I can answer these questions.


A 2g head on a 1g block requires the head bolt holes to be enlarged by 1mm on the 2g head.

The ports are the same between evo and 2g DSM, at least the evo intake that is being used. However the egr port is on the opposite side.


As far as clearance, check the link in my last post.

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I am using the 4g64 timing belt, the 4g63 one won't fit.


Once I get a few more parts I'm going to put the motor back in and check clearances of everything and figure out what to do next. The manifold I bought is different than the evo 8 manifold,while both will work I think this one is more ideal.


I started building my shopping cart at extremepsi, and dam this is gonna be expensive lol. I'm going to buy parts as I'm ready for them. Pistons, bearings, front case, and several other expensive parts won't be needed until I've basically bolted everything to the engine, plumbed everything, and got all of the wiring completed. Saving all my stock dsm parts is coming in handy. Hopefully I'll have everything assembled and together, then pull the engine and have the machine work done, then be ready to rock and roll.

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The thermostat housing is a spare 1g unit I had. I don't like the top half of it because it doesn't point the direction I want it to, so I may be looking into other options for that.


I'll try to take some pictures of the jay racing piece. It basically presses in snug and has an o-ring to help seal it. Then you use a washer that bolts to the side of the head and the washer covers part of the flange holding it against the head so it doesn't come out. It actually doesn't line up correctly but it will work, I'll show what I'm talking about with some pictures.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wont give up, its just going to take a little longer than I hoped.


Someone had asked me about the Jay Racing piece, so here's some details on it.


Here is the piece.










You can see the little groove in the piece, that's where the thick washer is supposed to fit and keep it pressed to the cylinder head.



Looking at the head now.




The hole with the bolt in it that is at about one o'clock from the coolant passage is where the thick washer is supposed to bolt in.


Here it is pressed into the head.






The piece is rotated so the thermostat housing sits straight up and down, but the thick washer doesn't line up with the groove on the piece. If I rotated it so the washer lined up with the groove, the thermostat housing wouldn't be straight up and down. That may not be an issue depending on where the high spot is in your system and where you're filling it from. This is on a 2g head, I don't know if its any different on a 1g head, but I'll check one of my spare 1g heads and post back.

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