polarisman14 Posted July 11, 2015 Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 (edited) This may sound like a stupid question, but I don't have my FSM in front of me (I think it has the coolant or oil flow direction in it) and I am running MPI and will be swapping from the current frankenstein coolant housing I have to an inline piece from Meziere. I just need to make sure I have the thermostat in the right direction to operate as it should. I'm going with a 195* high-flow thermostat from Gates. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the engine coolant flows from the bottom of the engine toward the top, so when it exits the intake manifold it goes into the thermostat where it is held until the temp reaches 195* or so and the thermostat opens. Then, it flows into the upper port on the radiator and gets cooled. It then exits the lower port on the radiator and re-enters the engine at the water pump where it gets pressurized and sent through the block. Is this correct? I would think it has to be as the factory thermostat would have to be on the outlet of the water pump if it were the other way. Edited July 12, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 It also comes out the head between 3 and 4 to the heater core. While the Tstat is closed it exits through the bypass "Z" hose. This allows fluid to exit the head whenever your heater is off and Tstat is closed. So yes,in from lower radiator hose to water pump.Enters water jacket of block.Travels across exhaust side up through deck portsaround 1 & 4 cylinder walls (siamese)Up through intake side deck ports.Fills headExits out both front and rear coolant portsOut front port Tstat to radiator Out rear port to heater core, Out heater core to coolant tube, back to water pump. Out bypass hose to coolant tube, back to water pump. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 How bad iis it to not run a T stat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 See my picture is first post here http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123261 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 How bad iis it to not run a T stat? On a street car? It will take longer to warm up and never achieve a very high operating temp which may or may not be too low for optimum combustion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 I've also heard that it can cause the engine to overheat as the coolant is not in the radiator long enough to cool down properly. Phil and Johnny, that's just what I was looking for. Thank you very much. I forgot about the ones exiting the back of the head but I didn't change location or routing of those. I was mostly concerned with the upper and lower radiator hose as I am trying to clean those up. There's 2-3' of excess hose that isn't needed in there right now so I am replacing that with a thermostat tee inline and a coolant temp sensor tee inline and running them direct. No biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 How exactly do you have to plumb things into the u-shaped bypass line that attaches near the head-to-block junction and wraps around the block? Trying to get everything set up correctly so it doesn't create any hot spots in the block or heat/other issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 How bad iis it to not run a T stat? your car will take 20 minutes to warm up in the winter, unless you start driving.This is the crap the older questers used to do. quite juvenile if you ask me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) Anyone? Specifically, asking about what to do in regards to the water pump outlet barb (the smaller one, for turbo coolant, was going to just block this off) and the one that normally carries coolant through the IM. My FIP has a plug between the first and second intake runner, is there a water jacket behind that that this IM hose should go to? I'll post up a page from the FSM if anyone needs help figuring out what I am talking about lol. Page 7-21 on this link: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_07_-_cooling.pdf I need to know where hose 9 needs to go. I already have 11 and 13 plumbed to the heater core as I should and line 10 still goes to the backside of the water pump. My thought is that the plug in the flange on my IM between runners 1 and 2 is for the cooling system (correct?) and that it should be replaced with a barb and ran from there to hose 9. Right now I just have a plug in the IM flange and a bolt blocking off the end of hose 9. Mine doesn't appear to have a port for hose 5 on the bypass line or it's already been plugged, and I will put a cap on the barb on the front of the water pump as my turbo isn't water cooled. Any help would be much appreciated as I am putting the engine back in the car Sunday. Thanks! Edited July 30, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 The hole between 1 and 2 is for the fuel pump on a different model car, don't plumb it to anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 So, then, am I correct in having the end of hose 9 plugged off (rather than going to the IM/TB, since there is nowhere for it to go there on the FIP manifold) and the port on the front of the water pump plugged off? I just don't want to make any hot spots in the block or head by accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 9 is a return from the TBI to the water pump that came from the front water port on the head, you still need to flow from the front port on the head to the "t" connection on the return pipe that goes around the block to the water pump, otherwise you get no coolant flow out from the front water port on the head until the thermostat opens. I'm sure guys have not done this and will claim its fine so its really up to you, I did exactly this on my Magna MPI setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Ah ok. Right now the only coolant going through the bypass hard line comes in from the port on the back of the water pump, runs alongside the block, and exits the bypass hose into the heater core. Then, the FIP IM has a coolant elbow between runners 3 and 4 (closest to the firewall) that goes into the other heater box port. I don't know which "front port on the head" that you are referencing--the one to the left of runner #1 (closest to the radiator), the upper radiator hose? If so, you're telling me I need to get a tee that fits in-line and connects hose 9 to the upper radiator hose between the IM and the thermostat, correct? Edited July 31, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 It flows the other way, the bypass hard line is on the suction side of the water pump. And yes, the front port is the one left of the #1 runner with the thermostat housing, the factory had coolant flowing from that point to the bottom of the TBI and out #9 to the bypass hard line, you need to emulate that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Gotcha. Since the coolant temp sensor has to be between port #1 and the thermostat, I will put a fitting in the coolant temp sensor housing to bypass coolant from the upper rad hose to hose #9. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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