shogunb Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I'm going to get shot for asking this question?Should I replace the Bosch 044 pump (ebay brought, failed after 3 hours of running, over 3 months,) (There's along story to this) should i replace with the 044 Bosch pump from summitracing?Can the 044 be install where the OEM pump use to be? or Bosch pump from top Performance for up to 350-380hp or there other pump for everything else and up in HP Replaced Cylinder Head gasket and installed new bolts (the yield type) and fixed broken studs on exhaust flange (losing exhaust through the gasket) 3 weeks ago.2 weeks ago replaced the transmission and clutch. Used some expensive Royal Purple 75w-90 which is fine for the synros. Brakes Fully rebuilt and or replaced.Derusted the fuel tank, pain in the tail. Going to weld up a new fuel tank in the new year.Next i'm pulling out the dash to fix the heater valve. O Joy Cheers Shogun Currently have 1987 Chy Conquest TSI.Have complete spare engine in pieces and t3/t4 and manifold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 (edited) u need to clean all of the fuel systems...u need to put clear plastic filter before pump to catch all the dirt and rust or pump will fail again..rust will destroy pump and injectors.............why did pump only last 3 hours??? Edited December 6, 2014 by markhansenconquest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 u need to clean all of the fuel systems...u need to put clear plastic filter before pump to catch all the dirt and rust or pump will fail again..rust will destroy pump and injectors.............why did pump only last 3 hours??? Did that, it has 10 micron 3/8 clear plastic filter before the pump, So that protected the pump. I read most of the posts on starquest and other site. The Tank had new fuel prestainer on fuel Pickup into the Sqaure Bowl in the tank.I was going to using the fuel tank liner from POR-15. I used most of the stuff bar the liner and then derusted the tank further with Battery charger and electrodes. It has AN6 or was AN8 fittings going from the outlet of the pump to the steel fuel line. It Phoenix Fittings from the Pump to the steel line. Installed New High Pressure Fuel Filter, after I did the pump. I used the instructions from here for derusting the tank. http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ I think the pump was a cheap clone of a bosch 044. It cost $119 USD from ebay. Just because it looks the part, doesn't mean it is. I haven't pulled the tank out yet. For all I know the a electrical connection could be loose on the thread terminals of the pump.There is no resistance on the pump and also connected 12V directly and no one is home. The main question I have is, is the 044 Bosch OK to install where the OEM pump was installed? Is there a suction issue with the pump? Thanks for your Help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 You don't need a filter before the pump. Just a strainer like the in tank one. You only need to keep large debris out of the pump because that stiff will jam it. The fine particles pass right through the pump without issues. Infact if your filter before the pump is restrictive or partially clogged it will cause cavitation in the pump and kill it. I have an 044 in the stock location. It draws alot of amps so you shouldn't run it on the stock wiring. Run a 10 ga from the battery to a relay and then to the pump. Use the stock wiring to turn on the relay. On the stock inlet hose you may have a slight suction issue. But that's only because the stock hose clamp wont hold it tight enough. Mine sucked a little air until I put a better clamp on the inlet hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I Put the heavy gauge wire from the pump back to the old plug, I had plans to throw the relay in, as draws some juice when running.I will install the relay when I redo the pump. I used a in/out 3/8 filter, so i should bin the filter? How nosily is the pump when it is cavitating? Did you have the rust problem with your fuel tank? I have new hose clamps, new rubber hoses everywhere on the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcristquester Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I'm sure you got a knock off at that price. Should be closer to $250 for a legit 044 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I bought a legit 044 for $100 on ebay new. You just have to know how to spot the fakes. 3/8 in is small for an 044. 1/2" minimum. Remember an 044 flows 300 liters per hour. The stock hose is 1/2" I don't run a filter before any of my pumps only a strainer. Never have and I don't have issues. Cavitating pumps make more noise than usual and normally make a surging noise. Fuel cools the pump. Cavitation is air pockets forming from turbulence or too small a pump inlet. Those air pockets cause pumps to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I will pull the tank tomorrow and check the resistance at the terminals, I will add the relay in tomorrow for the pump and remove the pre fuel filter (its was 3/8). Do you think I should replace the fuel line from the outlet of the pump the whole way to the high pressure fuel filter with 3/8" or bigger? I also have the full workshop manuals. Useful sometimes.Adventures tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 The lines from the pump to engine should be fine. I didn't change them on my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMracespeed Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 if the pickup tube is rusted,you should keep the filter before the pump. Jerry L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Did anyone use the black rectangle choke/capacitor whatever that item was which was connected to the + and ground in parallel? You know what is really funny, is that the pump started working again. I pulled the fuel tank and checked the resistance pump and got something. I decided to power it up and it decided to start working again.Any ideas on what should do?I'm half temped to order a new pump from summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 if the pickup tube is rusted,you should keep the filter before the pump. Jerry L. If the tube is rusted you should clean or replace both the tube and the tank. The parts should also be coated to prevent future rust. Just putting a filter on it is sure to leave you stranded someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I have brought por tank liner for it, but how do you can get every spot including the baffles coated. You could pour a gallon of tank liner and probably get every square inch. I already spent 40 hours getting the rust out of the tank. It was very bad. I'm going back to New Zealand for 3 weeks ( 1 week in Sydney)I will get the tank fully resealed by performance radiators while 'm out of the country.Then I don't have to worry about the filter issue. The strainer on the fuel pickup line should be enough protection for the pump or should get XRP -8 to m18x1.5 120 micron filter for connecting direct to the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 The in tank strainer is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogunb Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Thanks for your help ucw458. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bls77red Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 sorry to jump on this thread with a question. but I am new to the quest and my fuel pump is stock. when does the fuel pump kick on and off? like key on, or cranking? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 pump is on only if cranking or car is running....^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bls77red Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Gotcha.I am doing a motor swap and curious what sends signal back when cars running?not going to use fi.but a.regulater and carburetor motor.thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Fuel pump is only on when the ECU sees a RPM signal from the ignition. Ignition, ECU and fuel pump are controlled through the ECI relay located above the ECU. The stock pump may not work for a carb. Too much pressure. Carbs need 5-10 psi. FI needs 40+ psi. Not sure if just adding a carb bypass regulator is enough. You should consider running FI. More efficient and more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bls77red Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 yes I already am have a pressure regulator with a return port. any suggestions on powering the stock pump then? can I hook up my stock coil wire leads to my new coil? just trying to figure this out before my new motor goes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Ignition coil is powered by the ignition switch. The stock ignition amplifier is powered by the ECI relay. So the existing coil is good for your new motor. You just need to tap into the ECI relay pump on wire and find a key on source to connect it to. Or if you want simple,.... Use the ignition coil + to activate a universal relay in the engine compartment. Then use that relay to send battery + to the single wire next to the stock air filter location. That wire is the fuel pump test wire and goes all the way back to the fuel pump. It's a black with white stripe not connected to anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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