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New Starion Owner in the deep dirty South (sort of)


Guest singtoe
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Hey everybody. I have 1984 Starion drivetrain in a 1974 Triumph Spitfire. I got the car in trade so now I have decided to go with it.

 

The drive train consists of the motor, intercooler, 5 speed, rear diff and disk brakes.

 

It is a very fun car to drive. The Car weighs 1600 pounds and the motor puts out 150 or 200 hp. not sure,so I would like to improve the engine performance.

 

What should I do first?

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Guest singtoe
Guest singtoe

It uses the stock ECM for 1984. As far as I know, its just got an open diff but the car is so light that it doesn't take much to break the rear end loose into a power slide.

 

It has a manual boost controller, No cat , 3" downpipe and a resonator exhaust that exits in front of the rear wheel. It has methanol injection but I don't know how to use it or what juice to put in it.

 

It seams to hit 10 lbs of boost and studders sharply. cut the boost down to 9.5 lbs and it runs like a champ.

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There are two things that commonly limit boost on early cars. The MAP sensor itself can go overvoltage, there is a way to control this using a certian diode. And the second thing is that the MAS signal will start to become noisey causing the computer fits. Usually that is fixed by swapping in a 1g turbo mas or using a MAFTranslator.

 

Both of these problems are eliminated entirely by going to something like Megasquirt. I have MS2 on my 86 now (still TBI) and I'm finding it a lot easier to work with than the Gen2 Translator I had before.

 

mm

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Beautiful 1988 Starion black on black manual steering purchased from professor quest , magna intake set up with mega squirt 2 tc05 ported to 20g 3 row Camaro radiator a/c 9in rears 7in fronts gr2 struts fidanza flywheel act clutch standard Dad built my head 1mm over sizes SS valves shnider springs and 274 cam re-sleeved block to stock with wiesco stock pistons mk1 short shifter mk1 trigger wheel full 2.5 exhaust with magna flow big front mount and if I'm missing something is... Oh! Yeah I can't freaking show you because you make it so difficult to upload questporn!
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It uses the stock ECM for 1984. As far as I know, its just got an open diff but the car is so light that it doesn't take much to break the rear end loose into a power slide.

 

It has a manual boost controller, No cat , 3" downpipe and a resonator exhaust that exits in front of the rear wheel. It has methanol injection but I don't know how to use it or what juice to put in it.

 

It seams to hit 10 lbs of boost and studders sharply. cut the boost down to 9.5 lbs and it runs like a champ.

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I prefer full stand Stand alone because of how cheap mega squirt is and I'm very happy with Audie magna both work well together. Price wise the piggy back HKS is awesome and easy to use. Be careful when you purchase these products do you research it will pay off. What ever assistance I can provide or advice just ask. Apexi, Greddy and HKS are all similar but require professional installation. My neighbor is an airline electrician for AA and he helped me build my DIY mega squirt 2 I bought in pieces. I have him 250 to wire up and put it together on my car plus 350 for the mega squirt and dyno was tuned for 340$ that's 90 for shop 250 for tunner guy. I would start off with piggies and eliminating little by little you PS ABS antique is crap your MAFS eventually you want to control fuel spark and cross the mpi bridge when you got some $ to spend you can find an mpi custome fab on ebay for around 500 and that's how much I paid to get it and it had all the welds and mods done to it. Look around Luke the force is strong within your car find what it is your looking for and hope you learned a good lesson today.
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Your map temperature also plays a big part you need your car to run cooler in the engine compartment try wrapping you exhust down pipe and rear housing to manifold. Optimum temperature should be compatible with atmospheric temps ok so if it's 80 degrees out side your map temp should be around 85 90 not 100 112 to hot car runs bad. You will have to adjust the settings when temperatures outside change.
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