ESTurbo4 Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 Is anyone here running a cam sensor? I need help setting mine up... I cut a stock distributor down and made a Ford cam sensor fit on it. I welded a piece of 1/4" square stock to the shaft to get my single pulse. I have a 36-1 Mookeeh (Motronic) crank wheel and the car is currently running & driving. Here's the tricky part, for me anyway. In the Trigger settings you have "Tooth Offset" & "Trigger Angle", for the crank sensor alone I set, Offset at 2 and Angle at 50 degrees. So to add a cam sensor the manual says add the angle and offset together to get your "Home" or cam pulse angle. I install the cam sensor while the crank was at 7 teeth BTDC (each crank tooth is 10 deg, so 50 deg plus the 2 teeth offset equals 70 deg or 7 teeth). Then it says to check your work look at "triggers since last home" that number display switches between 70 & 34 when the engine is running. If I switch the injectors to sequential it stalls so I know something isn't right. Does anyone know how to set one of these up? The System is Haltech Platinum Sport 1000. The software though, looks a lot like Tuner Studio for MS. Thanks in advance for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 I don't know jack about the Haltech units. With MS you set the trigger angle by first unhooking the injectors to avoid flooding and unknown timing. Then using a timing light you adjust the trigger angle until the light matches what your tuning software says.Probably not a lot of help but it sounds like you are getting the cam input it just isn't when the haltech wants to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 have pics?you could have used a mighty max dizzy with a spacer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESTurbo4 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 http://imageshack.com/a/img855/5924/cuzy.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img843/8154/87phf.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img819/1589/wvfp.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img850/5927/g5j3.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img855/248/mzuq.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img823/1135/7mp3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The triggers key off of a rising or falling edge, I'm not sure the Haltech systems can switch between the two so you should look into that. It can make a huge difference in where the cam pulse falls in terms of the actual tooth offset and trigger angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) when using the mookeeh trigger wheel, I set mine to the 9th tooth not the 5th tooth. also a good read on trigger wheels.http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/trigger_wheels_installation.htm http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/kosovo37/Edis_wheel_zps3da4985c.gif http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/kosovo37/Edis_wheel_zps3da4985c.gif Edited June 23, 2014 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESTurbo4 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The Megasquirt manuals are so helpful, I used to run MS1 V3.0 Extra before switching to Haltech. I often go back and look at the information in those manuals. PSU - The method you mentioned for the MS is the same as Haltech describes to set up a crank trigger. If I set the ignition to "lock" @ 10° start it up and shine a timing light on the crank it does say 10°. However if I move the cam sensor around there is no change in the ignition timing. Scott - I see what you mean by the rising and falling edge, I've run into that before with the MS. The Haltech however, tells you to start with falling until you get close or if you already know better. I am unsure either way. Although, I will try and switch it to rising and see if I get a better result. Import - Thanks for the links I appreciate it. The trigger wheel is currently working and if I stay semi-sequential (basically batch injection divided by 2) I can drive the car normally. The cam sensor is only single pulse, I don't think this affects the crank trigger any way and if I try to run full sequential it dies. I guess what I mean is; how do I tell if my cam sensor is in the correct position? I don't see a way to calibrate it in the software. If anyone's ever installed that cam sensor in my pic on a Ford (the whole unit not just the sensor) you know you need the tool to align the sensor correctly. But when retrofitting any sensor how do you know if you have the sensor in the right position without a calibration button or method? The triggers since last home switches between two numbers, like I said. The manual says that it may do that when using a VR type sensor. I justify the numbers by: 70 triggers since last home sounds right 36-1 is 35 teeth 2 crank revolutions for 1 cam is 70 teeth. The 34 I relate to once in the Haltech forum, Matt (mod) told me that 34 is correct number of teeth because the Haltech doesn't count the tooth chosen to be trigger tooth, so 36 teeth, one missing and one more ignored is now 34. But how does that tell you if your sensor is in the right position? Sorry if this is confusing and choppy, its confusing just trying to explain my problem... ahh my head hurts. In some way I feel Haltech has dropped the ball on this one. They should have added a "Calibrate Cam Sensor" Button. Then life would be a little easier for me lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Look for some kind of diagnostics in the software, they should have something for you to review what pattern the controller is seeing. It certainly sounds like your crank trigger part is correct and moving the cam sensor around should not affect ignition timing. The only purpose of the cam signal is to tell the controller the next cylinder to fire is #1, all of the actual ignition timing calculations are based on the crank trigger. Lacking a pattern diagnostic you'd need a scope to read the signals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESTurbo4 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Ok so you're saying look at the pattern of the crank sensor vs the cam sensor. Basically, I'd be looking for a wave/pulse from the cam sensor seven pulses before every other missing pulse. Makes sense, there are some trace/graph data bits in the software I'll look for something in there. If not I'll see if someone has a O-scope I can borrow. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 have pics?you could have used a mighty max dizzy with a spacer. Yep, and much easier in every way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESTurbo4 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Wanted to update this in case someone in the future searches this topic it will have a conclusion. First off thank you all for the help I appreciate it every time. To anyone trying to set up a single pulse cam sensor with a 36-1 crank wheel on a Haltech, you need to know; the ecu has to see the home signal (Cam Pulse) from 0-180° before the missing tooth passes the crank sensor for cylinder 1's compression stroke. The ecu doesn't look at the cam sensors angle just that it pulses before the missing tooth on the compression stroke. All the angle information the computer needs is provided via the crank wheel. So phasing it is simple and that is why there is no calibration settings in the software aside from sensor type & trigger edge (rising or falling). Got mine running and idling good on full sequential injection! I am happy with the smoother engine performance, not that you can't achieve a smooth and powerful engine with batch or semi sequential. For me and my intake though, it seems so much better on full. Thanks again and good luck to anyone trying to run this setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 thanks for updating with what you found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 87redstar Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Mod a galant dist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 87redstar Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 It has cam and crank pick ups in the same sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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