Paper Bag Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Hello! First time Starquest owner, recently traded my TE72 Corolla for this San Marino Yellow Conquest... I've been going through and correcting a few issues that it has and I have a few questions. The stock fans are hard wired to always be on... The temperature gauge never goes above 1/8 C - could this be because of the fans or do you think I need to replace the thermostat? I've got a new one, just haven't had time to replace wondering if I should bother. Also... How would I go about hooking the fans back up as stock? The car is running RICH - I can smell it, replaced the O2 sensor because it was actually physically missing... had to solder it in place since I wasn't able to find a stock connector... It's still running rich under boost, the car also doesn't have an air filter either - just the stock MAS and airbox. Are all of these problems probably related? I've done quite a bit of research, I'm buying a wideband this weekend... The car has around 160k miles on it, Jet valve free head, recent throttle body reseal, new injector clips, plugs, NGK wires, new coolant.. I adjusted the timing chain it doesn't make any noise. I've tracked down most of the oil leaks and fixed/replaced the seals. It's leaking quite a bit of oil from near the distributor - can I just replace that O-ring and take care of it? or do I need a new distributor? Also the turbo hard lines are not in the greatest shape... looks like the coolant line has actually been patched with a piece of rubber hose and a clamp... Are these parts thta I need to/can fabricate out of tubing or do I need to buy stock replacements? Thanks for your time folks, this place has been a godsend haha. Edited January 6, 2014 by Paper Bag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Your rich issue may just be the ecus temperature sensor.You should still put a filter on it.Your fans should be thermo switched, there is a company that has these http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2014 I believe makes some. I'm unsure of the pn off hand, but I think its 18mm thread, not 100% on that.You can simply replace the o-ring is that's where its coming through at.If you have the skills, you can just fabricate new hard lines, but there is a banjo on one end.Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I'm running the stock radiator - I went ahead and ordered new primary and secondary switches. New question - running the stock turbo, 12A.... Shaft play is minimal, but turbine looks like it's eaten something. Is there an upgraded turbine I can replace/rebuild in the stock housing? I'm not looking to spend $4-500 on a new turbo, and I know I can rebuild this one - Any upgrades with the stock compressor housing possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTQuest Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I'm sure a good part of your rich issue is also related to your two problems as you sudjusted. Considering that your temp gauge stays down at an 1/8 hot. I know it doesnt seem like the fans being on constant could keep it that cold, but they can keep it considerably down if there constantly running exspecially in the winter. Think about how often most stock fans come on and off to keep the engine at a predetermined temp +- a few degrees. Now the O2 sensor.... Make danm sure you have it sealed well. If any air was to leak past the seal, the computer would think the engine was running SUPER lean and would in turn dump fuel to try and level itself out back to Stoich. Hope some of this info helps, but understand there is about a thousand reasons as to why an old vehicle, runs rich or lean specially mitsu's monsters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTQuest Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 As far as the turbo... it seems to be a hot topic that no one wants to mess with the old out dated POS that the Starion originally came with. This info is straight from one of the most reputable dealers I know of for our cars. This is not them on a sales pitch, just the truth.www.racetep.com/starturbo.html "We do not rebuild Stock Starion Turbos. It is a waste of time and the failure rate is too high. It is a fine thing to do to sell the car or just to patch it up for a short time, but it will fail again......" "We no longer do upgrades or rebuilding to existing Mitsubishi Turbos…The cores are very rarely, good and failure rate is very high…We only supply NEW turbos…" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Gotcha. Guess I'll be on the lookout for a deal on a 14g or something similar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3UC3S Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Matt traded with me. Good dude here and glad my Banana is getting some love. Glad you signed up dude. Best place on earth to be for a quest owner. The group of people here are awesome and will def answer/help you out with anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) As far as the hard lines go on your turbo - I assume you mean the oil feed line and the coolant feed and return line - the original OEM ones are still available. Check out DAD's site (screen name on this forum). Google up Engine Machine Service and find the Starquest parts for sale section. I'm pretty sure he still has all 3 of those lines. Also, bookmark the 88 owners manual on your computer. Go here: http://www.starquestgarage.com/ You will definitely find that helpful. Welcome to the site, you've come to right place. Edited January 6, 2014 by techboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Matt traded with me. Good dude here and glad my Banana is getting some love. Glad you signed up dude. Best place on earth to be for a quest owner. The group of people here are awesome and will def answer/help you out with anything! Likewise! Glad my Corolla went somebody who appreciates her as much as I did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3UC3S Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I also gave him all of the links for the parts guide and the 88 service manual! Corolla is getting a complete overhaul and will be one of the nicest Te72s in the state! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 As far as the hard lines go on your turbo - I assume you mean the oil feed line and the coolant feed and return line - the original OEM ones are still available. Check out DAD's site (screen name on this forum). Google up Engine Machine Service and find the Starquest parts for sale section. I'm pretty sure he still has all 3 of those lines. Also, bookmark the 88 owners manual on your computer. Go here: http://www.starquestgarage.com/ You will definitely find that helpful. Welcome to the site, you've come to right place. The factory service manual is my favorite resource so far! Thanks for your time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I'm sure a good part of your rich issue is also related to your two problems as you sudjusted. Considering that your temp gauge stays down at an 1/8 hot. I know it doesnt seem like the fans being on constant could keep it that cold, but they can keep it considerably down if there constantly running exspecially in the winter. Think about how often most stock fans come on and off to keep the engine at a predetermined temp +- a few degrees. Now the O2 sensor.... Make danm sure you have it sealed well. If any air was to leak past the seal, the computer would think the engine was running SUPER lean and would in turn dump fuel to try and level itself out back to Stoich. Hope some of this info helps, but understand there is about a thousand reasons as to why an old vehicle, runs rich or lean specially mitsu's monsters HHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!! Let's see here. You have been a member of SQC since 10/13 and you have a GRAND TOTAL of 42 posts/replies. I guess in your mind that makes you somewhat of an expert on Starquests. I reviewed your profile and it does not show what year you were born in - why? Your above reply to the OP's question did not give him a road map to resolve to his Starquest's problems. It only vaguely agreed that thay are a problem. You did not refer him to some very good links which discussed his problems and gave resolutions. Such as http://starquest.i-x...3eb05d61b96df21 for the cooling system electrical hack job; and the engine running rich problems that MAY be caused by bad sensors http://starquest.i-x...3eb05d61b96df21 or problems in the fuel injection system http://starquest.i-x...topic.php?t=902 As far as the turbo... it seems to be a hot topic that no one wants to mess with the old out dated POS that the Starion originally came with.This info is straight from one of the most reputable dealers I know of for our cars. This is not them on a sales pitch, just the truth.www.racetep.com/starturbo.html "We do not rebuild Stock Starion Turbos. It is a waste of time and the failure rate is too high. It is a fine thing to do to sell the car or just to patch it up for a short time, but it will fail again......" "We no longer do upgrades or rebuilding to existing Mitsubishi Turbos…The cores are very rarely, good and failure rate is very high…We only supply NEW turbos…" Your quote from above: "As far as the turbo... it seems to be a hot topic that no one wants to mess with the old out dated POS that the Starion originally came with.This info is straight from one of the most reputable dealers I know of for our cars. This is not them on a sales pitch, just the truth.www.racetep.com/starturbo.html," WHAT? Your above statement is is absolutely ludicrious. :lol: :lol: :lol: Your statement above, TEP is "one of the most reputable dealers I know of for our cars" shows what a Starquest Newbee that you are. TEP has had a "highly suspect" reputation here on SQC for the past 10 years that I have been a member of SQC on the SQC boards. They have been directly responsible for burning up Starquester cars cuz of faulty workmanship; and for many years they have tried to sell OEM Mitsu G54 B T oil pumps, at a considerable mark up, as high volumn oil pumps when in fact they were just repackaged OEM stock G54B T oil pumps; among other things. TEP makes unsubstantiated statements which are worded to do one thing. SELL PARTS cuz thats where the profit margins are. TEP IS NOT ONE OF THE MOST REPUTABLE STARQUEST PARTS DEALERS and their parts are over priced. As for your "old out dated POS that the Starion originally came with" statement - I have gotten 120K to 180 K miles out of the three 12A turbo's that I have had on my "88 ESIR SHP Starion. I'm the original owner and that's with over 465K miles since she was brandy new rolling of of the delivery trailer at the Mitsu dealership in Jan, 1988. In my younger days, when My Old Broad was also in her infant days, late '80's to early '90's, while she was being choked with the intake and exhaust systems factory installed performance restrictors, we have been known to blow the barn doors off of '80's Toyota Supras, Mazda RX 7's, Datsun 280 & 300 ZX's, even an 89 Ford supercharged T-bird. I strongly suggest that you down load, read and understand the FSM and read the FAQ's and How To's Forum in order to understand what makes a Starquest tick before you start replying to other SQC'ers problems. The purpose of this reply is just to inform you that the Technical & Newbie SQC Forums aren't like the other internet "ricer" websites where you just post vague or unsubstantiated BS replies to problems - just to get your post count up. HOW OLD ARE YOU? Are you a ASE Certified Student or fully fledged certified in what ASE series? For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTQuest Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) Jesus Ken, Settle down. It wasn't a statement of "this is how you do this or that" I'm not that arrogant as I'm not the starquest Guru as, you apparently are. All though all vehicles with computer management systems all perform along the same guide lines, and simple thing like air getting into his soldered 02 sensor bung could, and should cause the computer to read super lean as it sees a substantial amount of 02 and not unburnt carbon being passed by. I was simply giving some tips... and did no such thing to tell him to buy a new turbo, that decision is up to him, or to ask on a different forum. As far as I can tell I with "42" posts, I have helped him more than you did by ranting and raving about my two simple posts. Enough said and lets please drop it... BTW this is in the newbies section Edited January 7, 2014 by Starfighterpilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) The o2 sensor bung is not what I soldered - it's welded in place at the top of the 3" downpipe. I soldered the wire coming from the sensor to the wire that connects to the computer, making sure to disconnect the battery first. I've been through the rest of the cooling system and replaced the thermostat with a factory replacement... Guessing it is in fact the fans. CTS tested fine. Is it worth wiring the system back up as stock or should I just go with an aftermarket probe-type fan controller? I've had good luck in the past with the flex-a-lite controllers http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/flx-31147_m.jpg on all three of my RX7's. Easy to wire, and with the probe no need to worry about sensors. I'm going to be replacing the stock MAS with a GM MAS and an MAF translator for an easier tuning experience... Hoping my wideband shows up this weekend so I can get started diagnosing my a/f mix a little bit more in depth. Edited January 7, 2014 by Paper Bag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Jesus Ken, Settle down. It wasn't a statement of "this is how you do this or that" I'm not that arrogant as I'm not the starquest Guru as, you apparently are. All though all vehicles with computer management systems all perform along the same guide lines, and simple thing like air getting into his soldered 02 sensor bung could, and should cause the computer to read super lean as it sees a substantial amount of 02 and not unburnt carbon being passed by. I was simply giving some tips... and did no such thing to tell him to buy a new turbo, that decision is up to him, or to ask on a different forum. As far as I can tell I with "42" posts, I have helped him more than you did by ranting and raving about my two simple posts. Enough said and lets please drop it... BTW this is in the newbies section I gave him three places for him to research the root cause of his problem and come up with resolutions to the root cause. Ranting and raving? Us Old Timers have experienced similiar stuff like you posted many times - which if left go, caused MAJOR problems later on in time. The purpose of my post was just to somewhat inform you, and the other Newbees, of the way we operate here on SQC. BTW _ Welcome to SQC. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paper Bag Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) I gave him three places for him to research the root cause of his problem and come up with resolutions to the root cause. Ranting and raving? Us Old Timers have experienced similiar stuff like you posted many times - which if left go, caused MAJOR problems later on in time. The purpose of my post was just to somewhat inform you, and the other Newbees, of the way we operate here on SQC. BTW _ Welcome to SQC. For What It's Worth. KEN Thanks I'm looking to learn these cars inside and out, I've had several Rotary's and know them like the back of my hand... Never messed around with a turbo 4-cylinders. Like I said, I've always wanted a Starquest and I'm planning on daily driving this one... as I like to always keep a driving project lol. Edit: Guess I'll be pulling the injectors out and cleaning/checking vacuum on them this weekend. Do I have to use OEM injectors or can I use a stock replacement with the same flow... like from fuelinjectorclinic.com? I've used them in the past for my girlfriends Jetta with no issues. Edited January 7, 2014 by Paper Bag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 As far as the turbo... it seems to be a hot topic that no one wants to mess with the old out dated POS that the Starion originally came with.This info is straight from one of the most reputable dealers I know of for our cars. This is not them on a sales pitch, just the truth.www.racetep.com/starturbo.html "We do not rebuild Stock Starion Turbos. It is a waste of time and the failure rate is too high. It is a fine thing to do to sell the car or just to patch it up for a short time, but it will fail again......" "We no longer do upgrades or rebuilding to existing Mitsubishi Turbos…The cores are very rarely, good and failure rate is very high…We only supply NEW turbos…" Really? How so? What is your basis besides hopping onto Steve's sales pitch? Been using starquests as daily drivers for over 22 years now. All of my dd's have been pretty much stock and all had OEM 12a turbos. Rebuilt many of them on my bench over the years. $90 rebuild kit and a couple hours of work with zero issues. I consider it a mandatory item to first rebuild the turbo on every conquest I buy and I try to rebuild them once every 4-5 years as part of maintanence. kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 MTQuest, I'm glad that your profile now shows the year you were born. You are a year younger than my Old Broad. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTQuest Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 MTQuest, I'm glad that your profile now shows the year you were born. You are a year younger than my Old Broad. For What It's Worth. KEN Ive still been around the block a few times... but, will keep my posts to myself from now on unless I have a link, or some substantial information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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