boostd92 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I'm trying to figure out a direction to go if I invest some cash into a starquest (87 quest to be exact). I've had an LS1 swapped FD RX7: http://oi44.tinypic.com/2f07m8j.jpg That car was a blast and I miss the V8 torque, but I think it's too much of an investment to swap an LS1 into the quest - for a 26 year old car. I'd never get my money back out of it. That being said, I don't mind sinking a couple grand into getting the car super clean and making more of fun daily out of it. I plan to do a repaint (have a hookup at a body shop that will keep it less than $1,500), some nice period-correct wheels and tires, and a good stance. I've got a set of Miro STP3 wheels on my BMW that would be PERFECT for the quest as they are that kind of late 80's/early 90's ferrari style/look wheel, but they are the wrong PCD ... still looking for a wheel like this: http://oi42.tinypic.com/v46wds.jpg Even if I get the quest pretty, I still need it to be reasonably fun. Fun for me that's 13's or better in the q/m. What would it take to get there keeping the stock engine, and TBI? I mean the quickest route... I'm guessing 20G, dual secondaries and MAFT? Help! Also unrelated, but does anyone know where I can get some ST drop springs? Pics of cars with them? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Was browsing ebay... if I wanted to turn the stock 12a into a TD06SL2-20G, am I correct in thinking I need the following: TD06 Rebuild kit: http://www.ebay.com/...=item58a58bf4ce $115 TD06SL2 turbine/shaft: http://www.ebay.com/...9a9104c&vxp=mtr $115 20G Compressor wheel: http://www.ebay.com/...187e67b&vxp=mtr $60 And then I'd have to have my comp and turbine housing machined? Seems like a good deal for $290 + machining costs. Have I got that right? Edited October 9, 2013 by boostd92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 If everything is running good and you know how to drive, Upgraded ClutchSuper 16G @ 18psiBosch 044 pumpDescent tires Then let it eat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 ^^ Stock TBI injectors? No A/F control? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 ^^ Stock TBI injectors? No A/F control? Yep. Nope. You can get a wideband for monitoring and upsize injectors. Dont run 2 matched injectors unless your changing eng management. Stock ECU runs them staged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidjc Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Nice look'n RX! As for the investment of the LS1 swap, not sure if you're familar w/ "ConVette" here on the forum, check him out. As for Phil's response, he's the G54b Man, he can take you straight to where you want to go. GL, Have a ball! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Yep. Nope. You can get a wideband for monitoring and upsize injectors. Dont run 2 matched injectors unless your changing eng management. Stock ECU runs them staged. How do I upsize injectors without some type of A/F control? Does the stock ECU have that much closed loop control? I have a million questions.. Sorry if I'm a bother. Have you ever run E85? Is there an upscale injector that could handle E85's fuel requirements and still make enough power to get deep in the 13's and still be stock-ecu controlled (I don't mind running a MAFT or something on top)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OPTIMUSPRIME Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) 2 secondary injectors or 2 1000cc delphi injectors with a stand alone computer like a Microtech (my favorite) or mega squirt or others.TD06-20G20-25 psi (tuned OBVIOUSLY)and a good exhaust systemand you should be high 12'sThen tires, clutch or other things to help with traction.Balance shaft elimitor kit..Ported heads, etc,etc,etc....helps even more My friend is running mid 12.4-12.6 with street tires on a set up similar like i mention above. Edited October 9, 2013 by OPTIMUSPRIME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) just a clean good running quest with the proper maintenance and what Funky Phil posted. might want to try a MAF-T with 3 or 3.5 GM maf for tuning. ok at best or tuning.better yet megasquirt it. seen Greenstar run 13.07 stock turbo and a modified2nd GEN MAF sensor on an 86 Edited October 9, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) I've been scouring this site all week and everywhere I read talks about head gaskets blowing out over 15psi, and all the advice in this thread says to crank the boost... I understand that it's tune related, but what kind of boost levels are safe on a 90,000 mile unopened stock engine? Any insight on my second post up top? Can one turn a 12A into something better (and still be bolt-on) with rebuild parts and a machinist? Edited October 9, 2013 by boostd92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Was browsing ebay... if I wanted to turn the stock 12a into a TD06SL2-20G, am I correct in thinking I need the following: TD06 Rebuild kit: http://www.ebay.com/...=item58a58bf4ce $115 TD06SL2 turbine/shaft: http://www.ebay.com/...9a9104c&vxp=mtr $115 20G Compressor wheel: http://www.ebay.com/...187e67b&vxp=mtr $60 And then I'd have to have my comp and turbine housing machined? Seems like a good deal for $290 + machining costs. Have I got that right?18g is the biggest you can go in the stock compressor cover by just machining. The waste gate needs ported out as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Stock injectors will get you to low 13's before they start to max out. I never said NOT to use a MAFT, I just put the bare minimum. A stock 12a@20psi and 100hp wet shot will go deep 12's. Just have a line of 12a's ready to go. Edited October 9, 2013 by Funky Phil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 If I were doing it though, Id purchase some sort of ignition control or mess around with the ignition curve cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 If everything is running good and you know how to drive, Upgraded ClutchSuper 16G @ 18psiBosch 044 pumpDescent tires Then let it eat.A wallbro 255 will do the job fineHow do I upsize injectors without some type of A/F control? Does the stock ECU have that much closed loop control? I have a million questions.. Sorry if I'm a bother. Have you ever run E85? Is there an upscale injector that could handle E85's fuel requirements and still make enough power to get deep in the 13's and still be stock-ecu controlled (I don't mind running a MAFT or something on top)?A 16g with just a maft and of course a wide band usually works good. After that it gets tough. Your budget does not fit your goals. That 90k mile motor will need a fresh head and good gasket. E85 is the way to go, but really needs a stand alone ecu and some serious ignition fire power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I initial wrote Walbro, but there are too many fakes floating about. E85 is weak sauce!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 I initial wrote Walbro, but there are too many fakes floating about. E85 is weak sauce!!Good point on the fakes, a in car fuel pressure gauge or fuel pressure logging should be manitory and will tell the tail if a pump is not keeping up. The stock fuel pump wiring needs to be upgraded to fully support either pump. E85 is where it is at, meth injection is so 90's. We did have a guy running a sl2 18g with a maft gen 2, sec gen dsm mas and 850/1400 or maybe it was a 1600 secondary injectors. Guy could not keep it under 25 psi when he got on it. A hypertect piston motor on pump gas and it was taking it. Sadly the car got wreaked, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marker1989 Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) My old car went 13.9 on street tires, a slipping clutch, and a cracked turbo manifold that caused the boost to drop at higher rpms. It had a 16G compressor wheel in a rebuilt 12A, an OVCP with a BOV, and a straight through 2.5 inch exhaust, and a MBC at about 15psi. That was a crappy 2+ second 60 foot time so with better tires, a good clutch, and if it held boost all the way through the powerband then I'd venture to say it would have easily gone mid 13's or better! I'd recommend a wideband and MAF-T if you want to make sure it's running right. Edited October 10, 2013 by Marker1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) Here ya goVVV CLICK VVVhttp://www.sqperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/blacksqlogo1.png Edited October 10, 2013 by Funky Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 but really needs a stand alone ecu and some serious ignition fire power. Sounds like you are finally seeing the light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hrm.. ya I was trying to keep it under $1,500 but that might not happen. The car has a fresh clutch. Perhaps a 16G rebuild to my 12A (or pick up the DSM compatible downpipe for a DSM 16G that MR-STarion is selling, and a DSM 16G), a fuel pump, mbc, MAFT and wideband can be done for less than $1,500. Any more than that and I'll be thinking about doing a motor swap. I originally wanted to do an LS1 (like my RX7), but I've been thinking a lot about doing an Evo 8. Back in my DSM days, you could find complete front clips in japanese junkyards for $2,500-$3,500 or less. If a 4G63 from a 90-99 DSM fits (and I understand the tranny woes, etc), is there any reason an EVO 8 4G63 wouldn't? Those guys are making north of 300whp with just an E85 tune and bigger injectors (all else stock). Anyone do one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 After doing a little research, I see that the EVO 4G63 has the intake/exhaust sides switch on the head.... I'm guessing the turbo on the driver's side would make for steering column headaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostd92 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 I don't know if I just like to type to work my thoughts out, but any experienced 'gents opinions are gladly welcomed. If I wanted to do a 4G63T swap, the transmission seems to be the real hurdle. I know there are adapters/ways to get a D50 trans, T56, R154, W55, etc trans onto the back of a narrowblock 4G63 (USDM eclipse/talon/laser 90-99). My question is, which of these transmissions does not require the trans tunnel/firewall to be cut/torn apart? I saw some of the carnage needed to fit the T56, I really don't have the skill to fab a new trans tunnel. I'm really hoping an R154 would fit as I know those can take 400-500whp, and that would be all I'm trying to get out of this car. Maybe a W55 would work... any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Would probably cost twice what he want's for it to build one like it. I have seen it, it is nice. ---------------------------- http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136661&hl=4g63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skrilla Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 If it wasnt for all the frame and body rot I would of bought that car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 It sounds like you have been around the block a number of times and know what your doing. However, I'd like to point out that the OEM stock '88 &'89 Starquest's are capable of doing what your OP asked. It's been done many, many times. But it's a matter of getting the rest of the 20 something year old drive train to support what you want to accomplish. I'd suggest that you look at the below post so get an idea of what is INITIALLY required. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=66449 For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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