boostd92

Sale is pending.

See title but more specifically I'm in Lake in the Hills (60156)

The buyer I had backed out (said he lost the money at the casino right before coming to see the car... what a jerk). The car really does show well in pictures and in person but it's far from perfect. I'm trying to be upfront with it because the previous owner was not. It's got paint issues (clearcoat peeling in spots, dings, bubbling rust around rear of rear wheel wells) and in my opinion could use a cylinder head re-fresh, but it runs great (outside of WOT). The car is not rusted out underneath - it's actually in great shape as far as I can tell. Local buyers will get first looks. If it doesn't sell locally, I'll go down the list in order. I'll consider it "pending" right now as I have 2 locals interested. If it doesn't sell, I'll bump the thread again.

I'm selling my red 1987 Conquest TSi. It's been a journey but I got another great deal on a newer car and have no room on my driveway anymore (or I'd keep it). The car has ~91,000 original miles. I bought it off of a forum member here. Link to original for sale thread: http://www.starquest...howtopic=138550 Since I've bought it, this is what has been done: Drilled/Helicoiled exhuast studs in head, new manifold and turbo gaskets all around, new hardware, used non-cracked manifold. 3" Mookeeh catless downpipe O2 sensor Stainless oil and coolant lines for the turbo Thermostat PCV Valve Radiator Cap Spark Plugs Distributor cleaned/regreased Distributor cap/rotor/NGK plug wires Ignition Coil Fan temperature switch 2.5" muffler shop exhaust w/magneflow hi-flow cat Flow/leak tested/cleaned stock fuel injectors Mazda TPS upgrade Cleaned grounds, replaced neg bat cable end. The car has been the most reliable car I've owned in a long time. It doesn't get driven that often and even after sitting a month or two (even in the cold), she fires right up. The car idles rock solid at 800rpm, makes great torque, and the turbo spools nicely (makes all the right turbo noises). The car has some Nordic winter tires on it currently and is a blast in the snow with the limited slip. The clutch grabs firmly and shows no signs of slippage. That being said the car does have it's issues (that I bought it with and wasn't made aware of). - The car throws the TPS code and I can't seem to get it to adjust correctly. The car drives great at about 70% throttle or less, once you go WOT, it hesitates - I believe due to the TPS being out of adjustment because it makes great torque and boost at 50% throttle all the way to redline. - Previous owner removed the A/C compressor - After running the car hard, slight coolant smell. I've checked and nothing is leaking - the coolant level never goes down. The best that I can see, one of the "custom" hoses for the TEP radiator leaks a tiny amount that evaporates before dripping - should be a simple fix. - Some smoke on hard acceleration - this may be due to incorrect fueling because of the TPS, or possibly valve seals. - Several dings, some clear coat peeling in spots (but overall much better body condition than average) What I would do if I were going to keep it in the driveway: -Drive it and do nothing (if it's a winter car or second car and not a "pride and joy" car, it's fine as-is). What I would do if I were going to make a project out of it to get it running perfectly: -Pull the cylinder head and do all the gaskets and a head refresh -Secure or replace the radiator hoses -Run new wires from the ECU directly to the TPS to eliminate any wiring issues (as that's really the last thing I haven't done) -Replace the fuel pump (just preventative - I don't think there is anything wrong with it, just original as far as I can tell) I want to be straightforward because the previous owner wasn't with me - or he was just naive or stupid. It sucks because I end up making a really good car sound like a bad one. I would have absolutely no issue driving this car cross country (I did when I bought it, and it was in much worse running condition), or every single day in the winter - heater works great and it has snow tires. I bought the car for $3,000 if I remember correctly. I've put over $1,000 into it and only driven it about 3,000 miles. I realize I paid too much (now). I'm selling the car for $2,000 or best offer. Email me or PM me for quickest response. http://i61.tinypic.com/255rh2t.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/2exsnzb.jpg http://i62.tinypic.com/30kczgj.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/2qdc4km.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/33oi6ib.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/i6e03q.jpg

Fixed! See edit in original post.

Thanks in advance for reading! I bought my 87 Conquest knowing it was having some intermittent ETACs issues (no power windows, belts, pop-ups, dome light, etc). The previous owner changed the ETACs unit and gave me the old one. Since then I've had periods where all the symptoms of failed ETACs presented, and then starting/restarting the car, or slamming the hood or door and everything would go back to normal for a few weeks. Now I can't slam a door or hood to fix it, it just won't come back on. I followed the FSM troubleshooting and found that there was no power getting to the ETACs unit under the seat, I then checked the fusebox under the left side of the dash and found that there was no power getting to the "Room" fuse that sends power to the ETACs and other things. I then checked the fusible link by the battery. I get full power in and out of all the fusible links (which I replaced about a year ago), when measuring from the top of that fusible link box. After some searching, I found multiple threads for "WTB, fusible link housing" thinking that may be my issue but then I checked the fusebox under the dash and found that I get no power through any of the fuses on the left hand side of the box (starting with "room" at the top). Any suggestions? I've heard the under dash fusebox is basically not removable and a PITA... could the fusible link box be bad inside causing half the under dash fusebox to be out, even if the links themselves are good? -Adam [edit - FIXED] After inspecting the sub fusible link box that has the "R" link in it, the 12 gauge wire that goes from the bottom of the link to a 3-prong connector was the culprit. The terminal in side the three prong connector was melted due to high resistance in the wire (about 1" before and after the connector, the wire was rock hard and green). I couldn't save that terminal in the connector so I cut back the bad wire on both sides and ran a 12ga wire with correct weatherproof spade terminal around it so it's easily serviceable. Now all my fuses work and all the interior functions have returned - the ETACs was just fine all along.

I have one for sale that I bought off these forums almost a year ago. This is the original for sale thread (I haven't re-listed it yet): http://www.starquest...opic=138550&hl= I paid $3,000 for it. Since I've owned it, I've fixed several things to make it a 90% better car: Replace cracked exhaust manifold, helicoiled all exhaust studs in the head, all new manifold/turbo gaskets (no leaks!) Replaced Trilogy injectors with cleaned, flow tested, and leak checked stock injectors (trilogy injectors included) Completely new ignition (cleaned and re-greased distributor, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil) All fuel filters replaced (in-tank, before pump, in engine bay) Replaced MAS with known good unit Replaced TPS with known good unit Replaced ETACS with known good unit New low temperature fan sensor on radiator (wired all 3 fans to come on when low temp triggered - works great with no overheating at all) Installed Mookeh 3" catless downpipe Installed 2.5" cat back exhaust (muffler shop job - sounds great) New oxygen sensor Removed secondary air components Removed EGR components The car has a SUPER clean interior for it's age. The exterior has a few dings but no major rust.. some very few bubbles starting on the rear fenders like they all do. There are a few spots where the clear coat is starting to peel, but over all I get compliments on it everywhere. I'm asking $2200 for it and taking a big loss. PM me if you're interested.

If you're gonna do a T56 swap, why not just swap the LS1 in with it... way better than a 4G63 or G54 (and probably cheaper)

I need a working TPS for an 87. PM me shipped price to 60156. Thanks!

I used the red brake disc lube on the shaft since it's constantly spinning. I used assembly grease on the timing cams and other things that are just moving in and out. It seemed like the red grease I had was pretty thick and I didn't trust the cams to move as freely with it.

Interested - price dependent.

Looking for an 88-89 front lower air damn/spoiler. Mounting points need to be there and usable, small cracks, chips, scuffs, etc okay. I'll take pretty much anything that's not busted in half (pictures would be required, of course). Any color.

Does it have a decent front lower air dam?

I come from an MR2 background. I had nearly flush wheels on my car and the specs were 17x7.5 +35 and the rears were 18x9 +44 Knowing the factory SQ wheel widths and offsets you can see where they would set compared to mine. I maybe had 3-5mm to give in the rears, and 3mm in the front

Are all the years compatible? I PM'd you my address earlier this morning regarding the red one. I guess it doesn't matter to me what color it is as long as it's in good shape. Primer is no big deal as long as it's not primer over a mess of filler from being cracked, etc.

It look straight enough... though if I'm going to repaint it anyway, perhaps one of the other colored bumpers will do. If the gold or black ones are wave/dimple/hole free I'd be interested. If not, the red one will do, just let me know how much with shipping.

. Since nightwalker's got one, I may be interested in this one. Is it recirculated? if so, how? How is it mounted? I have a spare Audi 1.8T BOV that I was planning on just cutting in a flanged pipe to the stock rubber hose, but I haven't figured out how to recirculate it yet... I have the stock according intake/mas tube.

I'll take one of the red ones (mine's red). PM'd you.

It is pointed at 2 o'clock. The picture I posted is a mirror image so you could see how it lines up with the Mazda TPS. And regarding wires crossed, they are not. and that's not the problem. As boostin pointed out, the idle position of the factory throttle will leave the arm pointing at 2 o'clock. The Mazda TPS idle position (0.5v) is at approx 9 o'clock when installed on minis adapter. I thought maybe I put the adapter in wrong but it can only go two ways and they are mirrors of each other so it wouldn't matter which way I was put in. I'm stumped. Unless the Mazda TPS I got came off a car with a different mounting position

Anyone? I don't need the air deflector/spoiler below the bumper, just the bumper cover itself. It's not that big, a long skinny box and shipping should be cheap. help!

I figured out where the foam goes, but I'm having an issue.... Please tell me how i messed this up, but I can't get the Mazda TPS to work.... From what I can see, it looks like the screws for to mount the adapter onto the TB, and the screws to mount the TPS to the adapter are backwards... They came pre-installed and one is a counter sunk internal hex, so you CAN'T change their orientation.. However, I can't get 0.50v at idle with this the way it is. As you can see in the picture below, my SQ's throttle blade tab is almost halfway between the posts for the Mazda sensor. When installed this way, the Mazda sensor reads 3.4v at SQ idle speed (key on, engine off, ISC unplugged after returning from initial zip, and ground wire run from nose switch to body ground to simulate idle to the ECU as per the TPS reset instructions). It's physically in the wrong spot. I pulled the mazda TPS sensor and manually moved the potentiometer, and it can reach 0.50v easily, and at what looks at the right position (at the far end of the adjustment range). Either I effed up the install, or the adapter is mounting this particular Mazda sensor (supplied to me with the adapter) in the wrong spot. FWIW, the Mazda sensor boostinmini sent me is the "alternate" one with the pink/brown/oranges wire as shown in the wiring diagram FUZE posted. Anyone? http://i59.tinypic.com/2ewnrx2.jpg

I finally got mine! (took 2.5 weeks ... stupid customs)... The above part I don't get... I haven't taken it apart yet, but where does the foam go exactly? Any pics of installing/cutting the foam?

Looking for a *STRAIGHT* front bumper to fit an 87 Conquest TSi/Starion ESi Mine had the front bumper mount clamped to it and its wavy and dimpled. I don't care about the paint condition (scratches, fade okay), but no holes, dimples, waves, etc Thanks!

If you want to compare a modified car to a completely stock car, go ahead - but it seems rather pointless. Mod for mod, a 335 is going to murder an SQ in just about any category. That being said, $2k in wheels and tires eclipses the value of must starquests I'm not trying to start a war, I love my Conquest but it's annoying when people try to put r-compound coilovered "inexpensive" cars up against a bone stock premium car with all-season street tires. It's not a fair comparison. That would be like me saying my $1,500 shifter kart on slicks will take a hoottttt shittttt on an SQ around an autocross course... who cares?

As much effort I've put into getting her running right, I'm not all that concerned about handling. My daily is a 2011 335i Msport coupe and it will always be playing catch up to that car, so whats the point