UK '89 falling flat on its face

[Drive-By]

Hey guys, still having woes getting my stock setup on a built motor to run right.

 

 

Starts idles fine, warms up then steady, fans all coming in OK too.

Gradually press pedal standing revs rise OK.

Try to move away, accelerate more than a snails pace or snap throttle open she just dies. Standing or moving. She'll slowly accelerate through gears to around 50mph as long as the rpms don't go much above 2500. Needle hits 0 pressure she coughs and pops.

 

 

 

Forged and balanced short motor, pauter rods, JE pistons, Fidanza, TEP head ported, large valves and cam etc.

 

Last time I asked about a couple of problems as I was trying to run the engine in on stock TBI and turbo.

 

Since then i've replaced the dizzy with a good one from my girls Starion, the knock box and the TPS too (which I checked). I found crud waste deep in the tank so that has been removed and chemically cleaned along with replacing the pump with a Walbro 255 and a new filter. Also both injector clips.

 

Tonight I tried replacing the vac line to the dizzy with a single piece and checked for other air leaks.

getting worried I'm going to pop a new engine here if I don't find it soon

 

Any ideas where to look next. Big air leak? Secondary?

[ColdScrip]

First things that come to mind are injectors clips and your secondary injector. Remember there are 3 fuel filters OEM:

1. In the tank

2. In the line before the fuel pump is a small easy to miss cone filter.

3. Filter in engine bay driverside.

 

Personally i think its your secondary injector or the wire clip going to it.

Edited September 18, 2013 by ColdScrip

[Drive-By]

Both clips replaced with brand new items, cone filter gone, tank filter clean, filter under bonnet/hood new.

 

I guess it's a TB gasket kit and a secondary on order in the morning. Absolutly crackers, every one of the parts I've replaced has been worn, blocked or faulty but still it's the same damn fault haha

 

Cheers for the input, it is appreciated

[Lunacy]

This is a g54 right?

[StarquestRescue]

The terminals on the injectors corrode and may need cleaned, A tedious job that requires removing the injectors and shining up the terminals with what ever you can get in there, A nine volt battery should make the injector click. No click it's probably stuck shut. I wrap the injectors up well with electric tape and give the terminals a quick shot in the glass bead cabinet, Than carefully blow them off as I on wrap them. It works good.

[scott87star]

My bet is on the secondary.

[Shelby]

86 right,, both injs fire alternately,,i'd guess it's a problem with the map/boost sensor , or you have a huge leak in the ic hoses or couplers , I have seen hose clamps that appear tight but under pressure slide off and fall back in place once pressure is removed , a split hose will do the same thing

[Drive-By]

Thanks for all the input guys. She is a 4g54 and a 1989 car. I 9v checked the injectors but that doesn't mean there isn't a blockage or corosion in there so I'll order a seal kit and put the injectors for a clean and check them properly off the car.

 

No one had similar problems? I know its an odd one because so many things could cause a similar fault.

[D3UC3S]

Mine does the same thing. I have a bad gas tank tho. After the new tank arrives I will update you on the cutting out issue

[Alsandr]

My old '87 had those exact same issues when the secondary injector went bad.

[Shelby]

i see the thread tittle says 89 now,, did it say that in the begining

[Drive-By]

Yeah pretty sure I did, just wanted to make it easy for others to search for in the future

[Shelby]

so have you done any thing to trouble shoot the problem ? if it's a bad inj or poor connection the

engine will die any time the rpms reach 2500 or so boosting or not , if it's a bad hose or split hose it will run as long as your not building boost , meaning if you take it easy you can drive the car 55-60 mph but once you start to build boost the air will flow out the bad connection and not into the engine so the engine will just shut down and the in dash boost gauge will go all crazy also if you listen you can hear the air leaking out of the ic hose ,,the most common place for a hose to go bad is the one on the ovc pipe to inj houseing and the one 90 degree rubber hose off the ic , looking at a hose will show or tell you nothing you have to remove and inspect or tighten the clamps if the hose is split it is almost always on the back side where you can't see

[Drive-By]

If you read further up the page I did say i've checked/replaced TPS, fuel pump, tank has been chemical cleaned, dizzy swapped for one with good vac advance, replaced knock box, eliminated EGR vac lines and replaced vac advance line with one piece hose, replaced injector clips and 9v checked injectors but as i remember only audible not checked for spray patern.

 

I started checking for air leaks and eliminating possibles but ran out of time. Hopefully get more time this week but need to get customer work out of the way first.

[ucw458]

No one had similar problems? I know its an odd one because so many things could cause a similar fault.

 

I bought a non running car that did what yours does after I got it running. It was the cone filter blocking the aftermarket fuel pump inlet. But you said yours was gone.

 

 

You said you found debris in the tank. It could have gotten into the injectors or the injector screens. In the fuel rail there are screens just before the injectors. They could be clogged. Also check for air leaks between the mass air sensor and turbo.