KT Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Iron or aluminum block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Iron. Not a big fan of the aluminum blocks. Besides, going with a power-adder next year so iron will be better. The weight factor doesn't justify the price difference IMO. Save 70lbs and pay $2000 more. I don't think so. Proper engine placement, good suspension, and sitcky tires will easily make up for the weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Can't you find it in something else? I know your mind is made up, but I'm wondering if it is really $2000 more when there must be a lot out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinTSI Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Could you possible take some measurements of the space available for the gas tank area? A pic with dimensions from the hatch would be perfect. I'm thinking about doing the same thing since I'm also going to put a 240SX rear subframe in the Conquest and I thought why not do the gas tank too. Thankx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Not a problem. Will have to wait until Sunday though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Kinda' crude, but you get the idea. There is a ton of room with the gas tank and spare tire well removed. http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa398/dhollin73/LS%20Conquest/Conquest-153a.jpg If you, or anyone else, needs anything let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 I need to cut mine out! Thanks for the dimensions. What cell are you going with again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Be very carefull when you measure your fuel cell because depenting on the diff -i don't know if you are going to use the stock starquest one-it might not clear...better test it with the diff on the car.Too much forward and will hit the diff,too much back you will have the cell's fuel exits sticking out which might be too dangerous in case of a back bump,,,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) i saved a ton of weight though by removing the pig of an oem fuel cell but i didn't like the idea of lightning up the rear of the car....but that's all in my imagination....when i finally drive the damn thing i will let you know :D :D :D Edited March 17, 2014 by EVOMINUS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 I need to cut mine out! Thanks for the dimensions. What cell are you going with again? Been looking at this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-293215-s/overview/ Lenght = 20width = 18height = 10 It will have plenty of room to clear the differential and not be too far rearward at the same time. It will hang about 5" below the rear frame rails. We're going to fab up a metal cover that will seal from the passenger compartment. It will also be offset to the left a little (not sure how far yet) to compensate for the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 You can always place the battery between the two shock towers and fabricate a holder maybe even welded to the roll cage or the strut tower if you are going to use one-somewhere in the gallery there is a nice picture.Like that you wont need to offset the fuel cell and everything will be centered.Dont forget that from that side the exhaust exits so theres more weight in one side......small but the difference lies in the small details.I am using the same fuel cell but in plastic.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 http://www.summitrac...160ds/overview/ i think this is the one...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 http://www.summitrac...160ds/overview/ i think this is the one...... That's the same fuel cell we put in the El Camino. Although slightly lighter, they expand too much in the heat; especially direct sunlight. Works okay in the El Camino as it is in the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 You can always place the battery between the two shock towers and fabricate a holder maybe even welded to the roll cage or the strut tower if you are going to use one-somewhere in the gallery there is a nice picture.Like that you wont need to offset the fuel cell and everything will be centered.Dont forget that from that side the exhaust exits so theres more weight in one side......small but the difference lies in the small details.I am using the same fuel cell but in plastic.. I have other plans for the space between the rear strut towers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) another LM?????lol lol :D Edited March 18, 2014 by EVOMINUS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Not quite. But..... Speaking of LS's. We picked up the 5.3 LM7 yesterday. I was impressed by the external condition. Rained here all day yesterday, so we didn't pull it apart yet to see what it looks like inside. We'll start that process this weekend. When I initially contated them about the motor, they said they don't do engine harness' and that it would be cut off at every sensor, etc. which makes it easier and quicker to pull the motor. Well, they either dont' know what an engine harness is or they dont' know what a sensor is. Either way, I'm not complaining. JY pull-out with just over 100k miles and we got the entire harness too! So, engine, ECM, and harness for $420 + tax. Not a bad deal. I figure about $1.25 per hp. I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOMINUS Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Nice going...Please please please when you finally get the trans too ,try and take some photos or measurments-as you already do-as to how much interferance is with the stock trans tunnel before you start cutting.....everybody seems to cut the tunnel from the start to avoid the hard work but if everything else fails i would also like to try the t56 with bill's adaptor but i am not so keen as to cutting metal from the main structure of the body.Don't even ask for the rest of it...Keep up the great work my friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 I would look into a cell that sfi certified while your at it. Just in case you ever run anywhere that requires it. Nice grab on the engine! I need to get another one to start building! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 I would look into a cell that sfi certified while your at it. Just in case you ever run anywhere that requires it. Nice grab on the engine! I need to get another one to start building! I have no intention of making this a track car. I'm way too competative. Meaning, if I was going to build a track car, I would have taken a completely different approach. I wouldn build the car with an all-out performance, no-comprimise approach. Clay, my youngest son, and I are contemplating (read as: bench racing at this point) a true track car in the future; 3-4 years out. Haven't heard much talk about your new car plans. Did you locate a Flatty yet? Are your plans to build a track car from a flatty platform? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I see. I got one in vegas waiting to be picked up, got a lot of work to do on my 88 before I get it though. I really want to get back to SEMA this year, so my attention is on the current car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinTSI Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 I desperatly need one more measurement please! I ordered an intake today and now I realize it may be too big! The two pipes from the heater core come into the engine bay. As you are looking at them, I need the distance from where the center of the left one would be (passenger side) to the center of the hole where the brake diaphragm would be. I really appreciate this if you can get it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Should be easy enough. I'll try to get that this evening or tomorrow morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 So, if I read the request right, this is what you were looking for? http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa398/dhollin73/LS%20Conquest/Conquest-154a.jpg Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-R-Quest Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Great spring day here in Charlotte. Took the opportunity to prepare the engine we picked up on Monday. Removed all the LM7 truck stuff that we will not be using: Wiring harness, Intake, exhaust manifolds, Water pump, Oil pan. Actually, we will be using the harness after extensive modification. Then we degreased it, gave it a bath, painted the block semi-gloss black. Cleaned up the heads a little, but they still need some more. We'll be sand-blasting, and painting the valve covers semi-gloss black also. Installed the Holley LS oil pan; Mmmm that's purdee! Threw on the Speedway Motors LS engine mounts to see how they look too. http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa398/dhollin73/LS%20Conquest/Conquest-155.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KT Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Are you modifying the firewall at all, like Convette? If not, I'd be in for a set of motor mounts if you would be willing to make a second set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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