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i have had more ABS cars then not ABS and i didnt really notice much difference

from what i can rememeber. i did like the room you had without it. i will probably

delete it on this car as well and go with all SS lines front and rear.

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I HAVE HAMMERED THE BRAKES WHEN I HAD THE ABS AND ALSO SINCE I REMOVED IT AND I DID NOT NOTICE A BIG DIF.AS SCOTT MENTIONED ABOVE ITS MORE ABOUT AESTHETICS THAN ANY LOSS OR GAIN IN BRAKE PERFORMANCE.EASY TO REMOVE BUT IF THE CANISTER IN THE ENGINE BAY DOES NOT BOTHER YOU AND IT IS WORKING I WOULD LEAVE IT ALONE.

GIG OUT

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I removed mine as well. It is basicly a .5 generation system. It came out before most cars had ABS and it is very primitive. Period reviews of the Starquest question the ABS systems abilities and some review car's rear ABS systems were broken from the factory.

 

Any system of that era that doesn't actually look at the rotation of the wheels is not going to be positive. Today's tires and brake compounds have gotten much better and you can generate enough force to trigger such systems easily without being at the lockup point. To me removing it is a positive step.

 

ABS itself can be a tricky beast. The full on first gen systems on older cars effect the whole braking system and most time can be out stopped by non-ABS systems; Even more so as tire and brake compounds have evolved. Channelized ABS is amazing (watching each wheel and applying aniti-lock independently) but most cars that I have are too old for that.

 

There are also brake unloading systems that work on registered G load or body movement and change brake bias accordingly. Commonly these systems cut pressure to the rear brakes. I know the first gen Ford Focus has a system like this. I sort of view that Starquest system as one of these, even though it does a bit more than that.

 

Getting rid of it seems like a smart bet if you are wanting to improve on the braking system. If the ABS system is working sticky tires and high performance brake pads will probably just drive the system into ABS mode far before you reach maximum brake force, and muddying the experience a with no real perceivable benefit. If the system isn't working, it is just taking up space, adding weight, and giving you more braking system to bleed.

 

The only argument I can see for keeping it is if you want your car to be all original.

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It may take some searching. I bought my line of LowerShores on ebay. But he is out of that area now. I have heard of people using hardline to bypas the ABS too, but don't have any firther info on that.

 

Google search is better than the search on this forum. Most searches are limited to more than 3 charictors per word, so "ABS" is difficult to search for.

Go to google, then type "ABS Delete site:starquestclub.com"

 

I'm certain you'll find more that way.

Edited by Cloud81918
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http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=135785&do=findComment&comment=1337903 and http://koquest.homestead.com/ABSRemoval.html will help, ask if you have further questions and I recommend a line with 2 90 degree end so the line will not kink or have a large radius bend to the proportioning valve
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no adapter just a brake line about 30 inches long that fits an eclipse.

it has to have the metric type threaded fitting on each end.

the part can be from Autozone or advance auto parts or any

parts store for under 10 bucks.

im sure if you search on here, there is a ton of write ups on it.

 

http://koquest.homes...ABSRemoval.html

Edited by importwarrior
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I cut my line going to the abs and bent it to shape. Then put the fitting on and double flared it the line end. It worked great haven't leaked. And I wrapped a bolt in electrical tape and stuck it in the booster hose and clamped it down.

 

Line from booster

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/42DBF522-4E27-4A5A-BF6A-4CDE3CB6FE61-10043-00000E8EC41B507A.jpg

 

See the small line that has 2 90 degree bends that my non abs line

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/128B67DF-3A16-4380-9E93-6040C582D1AD-10043-00000E8EF3AD08BB.jpg

 

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/69216CB4-519C-4D3E-951F-A712775E7566-10043-00000E8EFABDF9B3.jpg

 

The middle line on the master cylinder goes to the abs pump then there is a line that goes to the proportioning valve from the abs pump. So you need a line that goes from the master cylind to the prop valve, non abs cars had these. I had my engine out when I did mine, so you may have trouble doing what I did... Good luck

Edited by joey_crandall
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I cut my line going to the abs and bent it to shape. Then put the fitting on and double flared it the line end. It worked great haven't leaked. And I wrapped a bolt in electrical tape and stuck it in the booster hose and clamped it down.

 

Line from booster

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/42DBF522-4E27-4A5A-BF6A-4CDE3CB6FE61-10043-00000E8EC41B507A.jpg

 

See the small line that has 2 90 degree bends that my non abs line

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/128B67DF-3A16-4380-9E93-6040C582D1AD-10043-00000E8EF3AD08BB.jpg

 

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/69216CB4-519C-4D3E-951F-A712775E7566-10043-00000E8EFABDF9B3.jpg

 

The middle line on the master cylinder goes to the abs pump then there is a line that goes to the proportioning valve from the abs pump. So you need a line that goes from the master cylind to the prop valve, non abs cars had these. I had my engine out when I did mine, so you may have trouble doing what I did... Good luck

Should this be stickied in VM or FAQ (Suspension, Steering, Brakes)?

Looks like a decent fix to me, a lot of guys may like this info, IMO.

 

-N8

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