FieroGTFan Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Hey guys,I have been doing a lot of reading on the timing of these cars as I need to complete this job. I was simply curious all of the posts about the timing chains being replaced, the engine is always out of the car. Is it possible to replace the timing components while the engine is still in the car? I know is sounds like a dumb question and I am feel sort of stupid asking it but I was simply curious. It appears to me that I would have the room but I am not quite sure. Finally going to revitalize the old lady after having to sit the winter in the garage. New injectors, injector clips, timing components, and turbo rebuild. Excited to get her back on the road! Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuGG Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Yes. Pull the radiator for more room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 It's easier to pull the engine, seriously. Borrow a hoist and engine stand from someone. If you have all the parts you need, it could be done in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 It's really easy if the radiator is pulled, no need to remove the entire engine. This would be a good time to replace your crank seal too. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGTFan Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I was planning on pulling the rad to give myself some room, I understand pulling the engine would be easier I just don't know if I feel like going through the hassle with all the vacuum lines and other electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGTFan Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 How hard is the crank seal to replace? Any other recommendations? I would like to do this once and only once... Haha thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 If you haven't already, download the factory service manual and start studying it, getting yourself familiar with the car and engine:http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124229 The crank seal is in the timing cover, and you need to pull the timing cover off to change the timing components. It's a simple rubber seal that pops in, but needs to be done carefully so it doesn't bend. Autozone or similar rents the tool that you need, for free. Or it can be done with a block of wood to evenly press it in... just depends on your skill level. I wouldn't pull the engine, that's a lot more work than is needed. Plenty of access with the radiator removed. As far as other stuff to pile on and buy (lol), water pump, radiator hoses, oil pick up tube o-ring, balance shaft elimination... but these really depend on the condition of the engine. Why are you needing to redo the timing anyway?? P.S. It's not a dumb question, don't be afraid to ask... plenty of long time members who don't know how to wrench on here lol. Remember to be less afraid of using the search function before asking though. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seans87Quest Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Now you really do not have to pull the engine i did this job in my drive way i have done my timing 4 times over the last couple of years when doing the head and s*** with my engine still in the car the way this go's you need to pull the radiator out take off the intercooler piping if it is any way or form in front of the engine blocking the timing cover now you are going to have to replace the oil pan gasket and head gasket if you try to just take the timing cover off with out pulling the head you will scratch the bottom of the HEAD. (not good) so un-do exhaust from compressor housing remove turbo piping and filter box disconnect all components from intake manifold pull head bolts pull the intake manny,head,exhaust manny all together at once will be a lot easier after that loosen all the oil pan bolts take the front ones out all the way out. then pull the a/c mounting brace out and un-bolt power steering from timing cover then you are ready to pull the crank pulley ( now i do this job by MYSELF in my driveway--WITH NO POWER TOOLS--Put the car in 5TH gear and lock the E-brake the crank bolt will pop right off) (Now do not forget to take it out of gear when putting it back together other wise you will find yourself fighting with it trying to get it TDC ) after you get the crank pulley off pull all the timing cover bolts out and you are good to go to replace you timing when i did my timing last it took 1 full day but it is faster then pulling the engine I think personally. Don't hold me to that it might be faster with a hoist don't know i have never owned one to use i just did every thing by hand the old fashion way SORRY I DONT HAVE A GARAGE,AIR TOOLS,POWER TOOLS,LIFTS,NOTHING-just hand tools I do every thing buy hand so if you want to do the basic's while in the process of R&R (remove&replace) I'm that person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGTFan Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I had read in another post about the timing that the head did not have to be removed, so you are saying this isn't true? Pulling the head isn't a huge deal, but I had read that I didn't have to pull it and I would like to leave it that way if possible... I need to redo the timing because I have a tensioner problem of some sort, I can the hear the slack of the chain making an odd noise behind the cover. Also, oil pressure is very low, so I need to drop the pan and make sure there are no serious problems with the motor as well as check my oil pump to make sure it is within tolerance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 No you do not have to remove the head either, unbolt the front of the oil pan a little bit to get the clearance you need to put the timing cover back on. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seans87Quest Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 well you can leave the head in i have never tried it my first time was not successful i ripped the head gasket thats why i suggested pulling the head but you DO NOT HAVE TO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Do not base oil pressure solely on the stock gauge, it could be clogged up, plus its not accurate anyway. Its function is to show oil pressure rising and falling, it does that just fine. Hook up a mechanical guage to test it. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGTFan Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Okay good to know. I was planning on dropping the pan anyway, should I just leave it off to take the timing cover off? Would that always help with clearance? Also, would you suggest replacing the stock oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge to get a more accurate reading? I am in no way planning on making a racecar, just a simple car to drive on the weekends. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Stock gauge is fine to let you know there is oil pressure and it's rising accordingly. Remove the stock sender and inspect it for clogging, carefully use a small drill bit to clean it up. If someone "rebuilt" the engine before they may not have replaced the pick up tube o-ring, or they misaligned it when reinstalling... either would cause low oil pressure. Removing the pan requires some finesse when in the car but it is doable, do a search to find out the tips and tricks. If it's not leaking then I wouldn't mess with it. All you need is a little bit of clearance to help ensure the head gasket doesn't get crunched like the other poster was referring to. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seans87Quest Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 i would hook up a mechanical oil pres. gauge i'm not sure if dropping the oil pan will give you more clearance but i'm sure it would you would think so any ways . i hear what you are saying about a weekend driver mine is also bone stock daily driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seans87Quest Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 but you do not have to hook up a mechanical oil gauge it is optional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 And once you have the chain back on, don't get nervous when you spin the motor over and the shiny link doesn't re-line up w/ the dimple on the cam. I thought it was supppsed to and mine didn't .... I was freaking out until I read that it won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGTFan Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks a lot guys feeling much better about this now. I was told the engine was "rebuilt" less than 10k miles ago. Whatever that "rebuild" consisted of I don't know for sure, I tried to get the information out of the previous owner but he didn't seem to know either and there I was thinking I was getting a deal with a "rebuilt" motor. I was planning on dropping the pan to make sure there was no serious amount of metal shavings in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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