Coke Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 I've talked about this in the Off-Topic thread, in the first time in a police car thread but I think I need to put a dedicated troubleshooting thread in here for help.. Since Last Friday, my engine has consumed 3 quarts of oil. One quart between Friday night and Sunday afternoon, which is about 250 miles. The other 2 quarts were from Sunday afternoon til this past Friday night. I was driving along and noticed my lifters ticking (hydraulic, ut oh) and my oil psi was down to 1/3 while driving. I pulled over and the dipstick was dry. After adding 2 quarts of oil, it brought it up to full. Yesterday I drained out the 5w-30 I had been running (I went with 5w-30 as it was 'start up oil' since the car was sitting for 6-7 years untouched) and I replaced it with 10w-40. Today I pulled the plugs and did a compression test. The results were a very consistent 125psi across the board. However, the plugs looked like crap when I took them out, after being in there for roughly 700 miles. Looking at the picture, you'll see it as Cyl 4-3-2-1. Clearly, 3 and 4 were black as night, while 1 and 2 maintained somewhat a regular coloring. Cyl 4 and 3 up close I pulled off the turbo charge-piping, everything is pretty dry. No filmy residue or anything. I also pulled the accordion boot off, and it's dry on the suck side also. The back of the valve cover over the bellhousing is clean as whistle, and I put the car on the lift to check everything else out. It's all dry and clean. The plugs symbolize a problem, but where? The compression numbers signify the rings are seated good, and the valve seats are sealing nicely. Could it be a valve stem seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Did the hose on the bottom of the oil seperator come off?The one that goes to the oil pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 I think someone already mentioned in the police thread, but check intercooler for oil too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr-starion Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 ya last time i had this issue it was the oil seperator line from the pan that i accidently conected to the intake somehow and caused a very large oil loss with no signs of burning it other than adding a quart a day :s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) I'll check the hose....but this car is a virgin car. Completely unmodified, and maintained meticulously by the previous owner. I'm trying to do the same by keeping the car bone stock (they seem to run best this way lol). Everything aught to be where it's supposed to be. I'll go look now. Johnny, I checked the turbo outlet and soft hose. It's oil and residue free. Edited June 18, 2012 by Coke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 The plugs are telling you where you have the problem. Like you suggested yourself check the valve stem seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Just checked the seperater hose. It's connected on both ends. The head was supposed to have been a good reconditioned head from Fuel Injection Specialties. I'll be pissed if I have to replace the valve seals. I don't have the cylinder pressurizing tool to hold the valve shut during the swap so I'll have to find one or pull the head. Ugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Take some small rope and put it in at BDC. Rotate the engine around until its tight and put it in gear. Should be enough to hold the valves up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well that's creative....but sounds dangerous. What if one of the strands of rope get caught between the valve and it's seat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apate Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Just checked the seperater hose. It's connected on both ends. The head was supposed to have been a good reconditioned head from Fuel Injection Specialties. I'll be pissed if I have to replace the valve seals. I don't have the cylinder pressurizing tool to hold the valve shut during the swap so I'll have to find one or pull the head. UghYou do not need the cylinder pressurizing tool All you need is some rope small enough to fit the spark plug hole step 1 hand rotate the motor so the piston is at the bottom of the stroke step 2 feed some rope in the cylinder (Tie a knot in the other end of the rope so you do not lose it)step 3 hand rotate the motor until the rope is pressing firmly against the valvestep 4 read the post from creakjoint above me because I type to slow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apate Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well that's creative....but sounds dangerous. What if one of the strands of rope get caught between the valve and it's seat? Take off the rocker assembly first 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Oh. Well that makes sense lol. I can try this....it's a redneck way of doing it, but I like it. I suppose a lot of vacuum hose could work just the same....right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Does it smoke on start up? there was a time that the exhaust guides would get loose and drop further down towards the cylinder. watch for that. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) zero smoke on start up, i monitored that today when i started it. It had been sitting all night, and all afternoon. Fired it up, and ran around behind the car to see, and not even a slightest haze. If it means anything, I am still running both pre-cat and under-cat so perhaps they are catching all of the burnt oil vapors? Edited June 18, 2012 by Coke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 just rotate the engine to TDC on the cylinder you are working on (take the rocker assembly off and use a couple spare cam caps on to keep the cam in the head and the timing right) the valves won't fall through the head. I did my valve seals this way on my 84. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 but did you have trouble compressing the springs enough to install the locks, with the valve down a lil bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 the new seals held the valves up well enough to install the springs and retainers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) After seeing your plugs, I don't think it's the turbo. btw, I just measured to see, and the stock IC holds just shy of a gallon.I used water for my test... Edited June 18, 2012 by button Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 If it means anything, I am still running both pre-cat and under-cat so perhaps they are catching all of the burnt oil vapors?Yes, they are probably masking some of the oil smoke. Did you have any one follow you to what for the smoke? Most two piece compression gauges can be hooked to a air compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Oh. Well that makes sense lol. I can try this....it's a redneck way of doing it, but I like it. I suppose a lot of vacuum hose could work just the same....right? if i were you id only use cotton rope, that way if by chance something did happen and you couldnt get it out you could try to burn it out.. you wouldnt want to use nylon or rubber.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 I'll be doing this when I get home this afternoon, if I can find my new valve seals anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 valve seals!!!!!!!!!!!!there 25 years old...rope trick easy way to do it...auto zone lone a tool ...i did mine like that last year and no more sudden puffs of smoke...do the jet valves to or jev/elim . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadrab Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) If the valve stem seals are leaking, there's going to be smoke at start-up. Seen it too many times... But, if you're losing three quarts a week, I'm surprised the car will even run. Edited June 18, 2012 by dadrab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Since I am running both cats, I have a feeling they are masking the oil smell, and smoke. I've let the car sit for 24 hours then start it, and there's not the slightest puff. I even bent down and sniffed the tail pipe. Smells like burning gas to me....not oil. I've got valve seals replaced on Cylinder 1 and 4 tonight. I'll do 2 and 3 tomorrow. I will also replace the jet-valve o-rings and valve seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 Okay last night I finished replacing the valve seals in cylinders 2 and 3, and then I rebuilt the jet valves. Man....I opened up a can of worms, but I think it was a good thing I found what I found. Jet valve #2 valve seat had a nasty mar in it, so I swapped assemblies with another one from the old head. When I went to re-torque them back into the head, I discovered that Cyl #3 jet valve is stripped. Beautiful!! So, I tried some red locktite on the threads and torqued it in the best I could (10ft lbs...13-16 is spec) but that didn't work. It's missing more now that I've got the car back together, AND I can actually hear I guess what you'd call an 'exhaust' leak from under the valve cover. It's not sealing......... I don't really have the time/interest in REPLACING the head right now, do you think JB Weld would work? My plan is to JB Weld the threads where it screws into the head, and then put JB Weld around where it snugs down next to the camshaft, so no more oil/compression can possibly leak through. I'll be disposing of this head in Fall, when the car comes off the road. It's a crappy mold to begin with....I just don't want to endure another head swap on this engine. It's already seen two different heads since I've owned it. The original had serious valve seat issues and lack of compression. Now this one is a thirsty red light woman of the night and I'm not paying her a dime! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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