The Rabbit1 Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 trying to use this 16g cartridge that I got for a good price on the car, but don't want to go through the whole hassle of new manifold, wastegate, downpipe, etc.. anybody have pics of their 16g installs to get some ideas? if anyone used a 14g housing and had it machined to look/function like factory that would work as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 If you see a picture of a 16g on a starion, it's gonna look stock as most of them are modded stock 12a's. Just have your parts machined out for the compressor wheel, and the exhaust wheel if you're going td05h... which you should. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 I was in the process of doing that, but the stock 12a compressor housing after boring would leave me with around 0.092 of metal sidewall to attach the air inlet tube, would that hold up against heat soak and vibration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 From all the converted 16g's here, I've never heard of any problems. Forced Performance themselves were offering a 12a to 16g upgrade for a long long while, and there are many of them out there. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StallionProject86 Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 ...this is my evo3 16g...during the installation,http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/IMG_20101018_154625.jpgIt's a process yes but it works..at this stage I just needed to fit the ic pipe..that "j" pipe flange made it into a little project as I have to outsource everything when it comes to welding. Like that other thread you posted in my brother and I pretty much covered the steps you need to take if you want to follow through..also there was no need for a different manifold or anything basically just needed to tweak the dp and get the ic pipe connected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 ...this is my evo3 16g...during the installation,http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/IMG_20101018_154625.jpgIt's a process yes but it works..at this stage I just needed to fit the ic pipe..that "j" pipe flange made it into a little project as I have to outsource everything when it comes to welding. Like that other thread you posted in my brother and I pretty much covered the steps you need to take if you want to follow through..also there was no need for a different manifold or anything basically just needed to tweak the dp and get the ic pipe connectedbut 1: that's a different wastegate actuator than stock, 2: that's not the stock 12a compressor cover, 3: I don't have any of the turbine housing or wategate actuator from the 16g, only the cartridge and the compressor cover for it, which will not hookup to the stock wastegate actuator. trying to figure out exactly what I have to have to make the 16g cover work or to make the 12a cover work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 (edited) A turbo shop should be able to machine the 12a housings to fit for about $75 each. Edited March 3, 2012 by StarquestRescue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StallionProject86 Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 but 1: that's a different wastegate actuator than stock, 2: that's not the stock 12a compressor cover, 3: I don't have any of the turbine housing or wategate actuator from the 16g, only the cartridge and the compressor cover for it, which will not hookup to the stock wastegate actuator. trying to figure out exactly what I have to have to make the 16g cover work or to make the 12a cover work. Oh okay got it man. I was thinking about the turbo itself obviously. Sorry about the misunderstanding.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Oh okay got it man. I was thinking about the turbo itself obviously. Sorry about the misunderstanding..no prob, if all i need is the actuator then I'll just get one, is that the 16g cover? A turbo shop should be able to machine the 12a housings to fit for about $75 each.I asked one and they said it would leave almost no metal on the cover, under 0.100" that's one hundred thousandths of an inch.. is this right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I had a 16g in a stock compressor housing andf it was fine. Been done time and again. Maybe the turbo shop needs new batteries in there micrometer, or perhaps your wheel is larger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StallionProject86 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 no prob, if all i need is the actuator then I'll just get one, is that the 16g cover? I'm not sure what you mean by cover but it's a complete 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I'm not sure what you mean by cover but it's a complete 16as in cover, the aluminum compressor cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 now that i'm thinking about it, is it that i'm wanting the whole cover bored out and they usually only bore out enough to let the wheel spin? would that be the ticket? But I would think that would create a straw effect on the turbo trying to get air in. the compressor cover that came with the turbo measures at 1.865 with my analog browne and sharpe verniers, the recess on the outside of the 12a cover measures 2.048, this leaves me with a total wall thickness of.. 2.048 - 1.865 = 0.183 / 2 = 0.0915 the recess being this:http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/the_rabbit1/T04E.jpg so are we talking about the same thing here? or am I supposed to only bore the first part (the thicker part)..? or can I just use this wastegate actuator on my stock hotside?http://www.mjmturbos.com/images/16gBIG7CM.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Any good shop should offer to weld a new inlet on.it's not rocket science. if the material is to thin, do away with it and weld on what is needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Any good shop should offer to weld a new inlet on.it's not rocket science. if the material is to thin, do away with it and weld on what is needed.cool, will have to find a shop that can do this without charging me an arm and a leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Some people just don't want to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
movin on Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) Alright, you want the easiest fitment and good performance. Here is what to do:1. Have the 12a exhaust housing bored for the tdo5h wheel.2. Use the DSM center cartridge and compressor housing (better than stock 12a because of internal air radius) and point the outlet of the compressor housing towards the passenger fender, so it will line up just about the same as stock.3. Weld two tabs on the DSM housing to mount the 12a wastegate.The turbo on the left is my 18g that is built like that. http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i368/movinon35/18gvs16g2.jpg Edited March 5, 2012 by movin on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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