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so confused


SnohoQuest
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Alright well.... My freshly cleaned injectors are back and the car no longer runs rich! the smell is gone!! And is idling a little more smoothly. However... the hesitation still exists. i also had my fuel pressure checked, and my vac adv was also checked. So.. now im going to try a full tune up, cap rotor wires coil oil plugs and fuel filter. just to see if the problem still arises...
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just use normal, el cheapo wires, they are fine, no need for uber expensive, bright, colorful, thick wires that do the exact same thing. Only replace the cap and rotor if they are cracked or broken. Your injectors could be cleaner, but might still be bad. Unplug the secondary and see if the problem is the same. Also, that leads me to injector clips. Often overlooked, but very important. New ones would be a good idea, and they're cheap.

 

Another idea is to check that you aren't overboosting. make sure the vacuum line is connected to the wastegate and not leaking. Then check for boost leaks in the intercooler pipes.

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just use normal, el cheapo wires, they are fine, no need for uber expensive, bright, colorful, thick wires that do the exact same thing.

 

Tech, You are kidding. I have used Mallory, Accel and Stock Spark plug Wires. Now I use Magnacor 8.5mm. There is a world of difference between them, and the other three Spark Plug wire sets. Magnacor uses Stainless Steel wire wound 200 turns per inch with a heat resistance of 1000 degrees. I have had problems with Mallory Spark Plug wires. I purchased a brand new set of 7mm Mallory Spark Plug Wires for my Starion. Three months later I had a miss in my engine. Ended up checking the entire system out, come to FINALLY find out it was a bad spark plug wire.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Hesitation can be the TPS dirty or an injector clip. Even new clips don't last unless you put dielectic grease on them.

Use your volt meter on the TPS wires and have someone very slowly push the gas pedal down and your needle on the gauge should sweep evenly, no dead spots or jerks. If the cam inside is cracked or broken off it will hesitate in a bad way. If this is under boost hesitation not idling, those plug wires can't just be laying there they put those plastic insulators on there for a reason.

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/plugwiring02.jpg

262972_1480831478942_1778479606_741568_2139358_n.jpg

 

NGK plug wires, part #ME51 are less than $20

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  • 4 weeks later...
tested my TPS reset skills again and found that no matter how much i move my TPS the voltage never changes? i would expect to see a least a little bit of change, is it supposed to be locked on at .48v and not have any movement? i know the book says that's perfect but i would've though i could at least get some differentiation..
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tested my TPS reset skills again and found that no matter how much i move my TPS the voltage never changes? i would expect to see a least a little bit of change, is it supposed to be locked on at .48v and not have any movement? i know the book says that's perfect but i would've though i could at least get some differentiation..

TPS is shot, you can imagine how I know. I bet the contacts inside are completely broke off.

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You're using the wrong wires or you are doing it backwards. I doubt its bad. Take it off, let it hand in the air and put the test leads on and move the lever with your finger. That plastic cam might be broken.
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