leesfer Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) What is it? http://i.imgur.com/3Alc4.jpg</div><div> </div><div>http://i.imgur.com/fRVHZ.jpg</div> Edited February 19, 2012 by leesfer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 it doesnt look like any stock cam i've ever seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) After doing a little searching I am thinking this is TEP cam, though I'm not sure which one I'm guessing TEP because of the purple paint Edit: Maybe not since there are no markings on the end of it Edited February 19, 2012 by leesfer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holeysocks Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) I found this.. CWC makes camshaft BLANKS, someone else ground it and marketed it for you. They are the leading manufacturer of blanks for aftermarket grinders. I think they supply OEMS' as well. Like the moderator at Chevelles said, you will have to find someone that uses BR as a prefix on their cam grinds. You might try looking up manufacturer's part numbers at Summit or Jegs (or search the individual cam manufacturer's sites, Crane, Isky, Crow, Cam Dynamics, etc... ) to see. I agree that likely it's a 270 grind, but other than that it's a crapshoot. I'm betting the difference between the 270 and 290 is the difference between advertised duration, and duration at 0.050" lift. Chances are it's a symetrical cam profile. The only other thing I can be failry certian of guessing like this is the production date November 16, 2001! (11.16.01) You could degree it with a wheel and indicator and determine the specs for yourself, including lobe center. That would give you strong indications on what performance it would give, compared to similarly designed bumpsticks by other manufacturers. If you want hot out of the hole and not concerned about top end, stick with a relatively stock camshaft and play with advancing and retarding the timing. The difference between a Ford CJ "Purple Stripe" hot top end camshaft and one for a big block stump puller Truck is the offset dowel pin in the drive gear! Camshaft degreeing can RADICALLY affect how the car performs out of the hole. Even with a stock camshaft, down low performance will really be helped by a tweaked camshaft adjustment. If you want down low performance, go with the 400, and skip the 2.02's they are for breathing up top. The reason the 400's were such nice torquey motors was the earlier small port heads didn't flow up top, and so they had great prot velocity at the lower RPM ranges making for killer torque. Also, for the 'sound' aspect of it, again camshaft advance / retard. Our Bonneville engine sounded like a NHRA Top-Fueler when we first started tuning. Our exhaust valves were opening a little too early, and there was still residual cylinder pressure in there, making for a very harsh "Cackle". Some people actually commented our engine sound frightened them it sounded so mean! On the dyno we dialed in the cam, and the engine quieted down quite a bit, and we made a LOT more power, but it never sounded as nasty as it did originally. The sedate sounds of the car can be heard on You Tube --- Search on "9300 RPM Shiftpoints" or go to demonidcfh site and view his Bonneville/El Mirage runs. Edited February 19, 2012 by holeysocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Good info there! I just found out that Schneider is literally 5 minutes from my house so if no one can guess what this is then I will take it to them and have them check it out with a cam doctor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 After looking at your pictures some more I figured it was a cast camshaft,and thought may be it was a TEP because it looked familiar.I thought some one might have one pictured on site so here you go.. http://www.starquest...2A&fromsearch=1 http://jeepquest.net/gallery2/d/2319-2/P1010286.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 The CWC casts are known to be weak. FYI. I've personally seen dozens of them turned in as cores (even after I tell people I don't accept them) that are wearing down a lobe. Usually the last lobe.Most likely is a TEP cam.The purple paint is something TEP does to their cams, and they don't mark the end like Schneider does. The mystery cam is usually a TEP. You can measure the lift and pretty much know which TEP it is from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 What other type of cast cam was used besides CWC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Would it be a better idea to find a stock cam for sale that isn't a CWC cast cam and then have it reground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 My cam grinder laughs at the metallurgy of all of our particular aftermarket cores. I always send one to him as I get them, so he can check to see if the cast is any better than previous ones, but we haven't found one good one yet. He makes the same on whatever core he grinds, so it doesn't make him any more cash to tell me that. Like I said, many times the CWC and other afterarket cores will have worn lobe on them. That alone can't be blamed on the cam, but when none of the OEM cams have it, it does add validity. Yes, the OEM cores are much better. They are the same metal as the newer (current 2012) OEM roller cams too. Japanese metal as a standard is always higher quality than the standard US. This includes the block, crank, and cam. Although their cranks are all forged including the non-nitride hardened ones. That's why I would have no problem with finding a non-hardened crank and using it in our engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks for the info, although it's a little unfortunate My head has hydraulic lifters, so if I were to change the came, would it be worth while to go mechanical instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 There are the advantages I mentioned with the mechanical cams, plus the ability to tighten up the lash tighter than stock to get a noticeable gain just from that. So, it matters how much of a problem it will be for you to adjust the rockers every 15,000 miles or so. Maybe more depending on the grind. More aggressive requires more frequent adjustments as a rule with some exceptions. So your answer is really in the eye of the beholder. I like hydraulic roller cams myself. But I don't advise mixing hyd roller rockers with a non-roller cam. A true roller cam is one that only a roller can navigate around the lobe. I recently bought a brand new head with stainless oversized valves. The person who set it up used a basic Schneider 274H (hyd) slip rocker cam with 1.6 ratio roller rockers. I replaced the roller rockers with hyd slippers because rollers delay the power if mated to a non-roller cam. Even with the stock hyd slippers I put on it, the 274 cam has less low end response than a stock cam. My previous 7:1 compression engine and stock cam and head had more low end torque than the new engine with 8:1, a new head and 274 cam. I'd hate to see what roller rockers would have done to it. The rollers delay the power band even more because it takes longer for them to open the valve, albeit they open it more with the 1.6 ratio. They also close the valve faster for considerable less time at full open position. So I would need to wind the new engine tighter to make up for the low end loss when this new engine only has forged pistons for an RPM advantage. I prefer to have shaved rods, light piston pins and crank mods too before I wind it much tighter than the stock red line. So the combination isn't what I prefer but liveable since it is in a light '83. My point is that the heavier wide bodies need all of the low end they can get unless they do have the high rpm mods. The added weight makes it harder to make up for the low end loss. You have to raise boost and max out the drivetrain to get it to wake up.A good mechanical performance cam will not have near the low end loss as a hydraulic. The best way to go hydraulic with less low end loss is to go roller cam. Then there is also considerable more mid-range to top end gain than a comparable slipper cam can give. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Great info! Where do those who are using rollers get the rockers from? And do they need any modifying or will they just replace the stock rockers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 The rollers come off of the SOHC 3.0L V6 Caravans, 3000GT's, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 A camshaft with rust on it. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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