Mike_StarionTSI Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a93/tonito1961/Snapbucket/FEF5271B.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_StarionTSI Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Whoops, double posted. Lol Edited December 26, 2011 by Mike_StarionTSI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 I have an emerald k6 now lol. Very good so far. I just need a proper tune at the Dyno. But for you, since it's full throttle, you just need to do a few quick runs and set it up to what feels most effective. Also, I recommend forged pistons so you can boost higher. Don't go for hyper pistons. Aside that, If you have welding experience, I would fabricate my own intake. I'll post a pic of mine in a bit. Oh and try to get your hands on a non jet valve head. They're tougher and you can get a port and polish kit on jegs. Port out those suckers. Or you can spend $1500 and buy that fully worked head on the parts for sale section. It's worth it, but hey, it's your call. That's one sweet intake, but I do lack the welding experience to make my own for now, maybe I'll throw in a try, when the engine is running with his stock '83 ECI and stock head.I'll be using forged pistons and forged rods that's for sure already. For the head I'm thinking or better yet, I'm searching for a 16v head, I think in reality it will have more low RPM power ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 (edited) A little bit of update of latest progress of the cross flatty's Got some good news but mostly it's bad news and even worse news. Remember how the engine out of the white looked ... well he's still like that, it's a project for later.The red one wasn't all much better, oil pan was filled with iron, later we found out it was a bearing of the balance shaft that gave up. I pulled the red engine out and, was trying to save the red car, but it's completely gone He's completely stripped and taken care of, it's like putting a bullet in a brain.Was hoping to save him to race with but he flatlined sadly. Front while engine is out ... http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000638.jpg Rust all over, main beam couldn't hold nothing, if you pushed it down with very light force, it would bend.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000688.jpg Completly stripped of just everyhing, and no the door was rusted from the inside out And the parts are from other cars, like worthless Renaults and Ford's. http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0002.jpg Underside of the body was running away from the car, from front to back ...Threw on the floor a fire extinguisher and it fell right through lol. http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0011.jpg Final minutes of a legend on the scrapheap.Sadly I couldn't get my hands on it, a couple years sooner, I'm falling in love with this type of car so it hurts like hell!Luckily I have 2 others to take car of, 1 for the road and one other for racing.All the parts are out ...The seats you say ?Well those are completely ****ted left right and center with rat poo and eaten by rats from the inside out. Rats nested in them, lol rats with taste tho ^^ http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0012.jpg Edited February 5, 2012 by Tekker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Are both of the race cars 2.6 liter or 2.0 liter? I know you said the road car is 2.0 liter. There is a lot of 2.6 liter experience here, but I think if I am not mistaken you were talking about putting a 16 valve head onto a euro spec 2.0 liter starion? Clarify this a bit and you will get some good responses Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Follow up: engine taken apart. Engine with drivetrain.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000661.jpg New toy's for looking like a pro http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000704.jpg Starion in a box http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000729.jpg Start of the build off, ready to go !-10°C out side, but we put through !http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000746.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Are both of the race cars 2.6 liter or 2.0 liter? I know you said the road car is 2.0 liter. There is a lot of 2.6 liter experience here, but I think if I am not mistaken you were talking about putting a 16 valve head onto a euro spec 2.0 liter starion? Clarify this a bit and you will get some good responses Keith Hey hey! Yeah those are EU spec 2.0l Turbo's. I don't want 2.6l as there are little less sharp in the low RPM.And yea there is loads of useful info on this board indeed, we look like a rookie compared to many people here, and w'r wrenching for years on cars for autocross, but never with Turbo and or with 200+ HP cars tho.About the 16valve head, I can if I'm not mistaken can use a couple of heads.Like out of the Lancer VR4 SOHCBut there are options I can use DOHC heads aswell, like ... out of an Mitsu Eclipse 2.0 Turbo and some other options, dunno out of my head.So searching for crashed cars and or on scrapheap to find a good head, prefer DOHC 16v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Opening up the block.First things first ... oil pan, was bumped, BADLY.So we came up with the reason why this car is set aside for nearly 18 years.Oil pan was dented up and blocked the oil pickup tube.So no oil for the bearings, car we guess was overheated and the bearing of the balance shaft gave way.It was forced out and got inside the engine, the guy prolly heard a rattling noise and pulled over 18 years ago and never looked back.The bearing looked nothing like a round shape no more it was just twisted metal and was giving out louds of small pieces of the material, the engine was filled with it all over the place. I'm glad we found the reason why it was set aside, now we can start to fix it. You can see on top of the pic left, bearing of the balance shaft and the discolorisation, like blue-ish of the overheating.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000772.jpg Does anyone know what these markings mean ?Is it a 8 or a B or is it even 13 C 13 13 ... ?It's like right where the oil cover was mounted.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000783.jpg Engine is very clean, all the bearings 'could' be reused even, but I won't, gonna place in new ones !Idea's over good ones would be nice, should I get different ones then OEM or should I get forged or something ?Maybe I need oversized cause gonna let the crank measured and if needed reworked.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000785.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000787.jpg Some pics of the hole where the balance bearing needed to be and rubbed balance shaft itself.Was planning on eliminating it anyway so the scratches won't really matter.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000791.jpghttp://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000792.jpghttp://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000794.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Wow man you have some REALLY rare (to us here) starions there. I didn't even know some came with roll up windows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 You should be able to source most everything you need for a DOHC head swap from an early generation eclipse in a salvage yard. All the guys here running 2.0, and 2.4 liter modern mitsubishi setups are doing it as a full engine swap, so are either running eclipse ECU and harness or full stand alone aftermarket ECU. Did you happen to pull the motor mounts from the car you sent back to the salvage yard? Those are a sellable item to people here wanting to do a 2.0 or 2.4 engine swap. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Those small rear hatch spoilers were optional over here and dealer installed. There's also the head light washers that mount to the grill and the pump/tank and switch inside. We have those washers on the Montero but not the Starion and the grill is slightly different to allow for them. You can ship those things in a plastic pipe for safety. Did you have the ECI harness and ECU from on of those that was good? That car might not have ran from its ignitor being dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Wow man you have some REALLY rare (to us here) starions there. I didn't even know some came with roll up windows! Think this is the European version as I got 3 and most except some nuances is the same.got luck though, got 2 '83 hoods, and the lights as I do like those lights more then the black striped ones, but that's taste I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 You should be able to source most everything you need for a DOHC head swap from an early generation eclipse in a salvage yard. All the guys here running 2.0, and 2.4 liter modern mitsubishi setups are doing it as a full engine swap, so are either running eclipse ECU and harness or full stand alone aftermarket ECU. Did you happen to pull the motor mounts from the car you sent back to the salvage yard? Those are a sellable item to people here wanting to do a 2.0 or 2.4 engine swap. KeithHave been started to look for DOGC 16v or SOHC 8v heads already, but or they are in expensive cars still or people just ask arms and legs for'm. I think I gonna go for the fully aftermarket Emerald ECU and cabling, as we can look and search for all kind of problems in wires, ECU, boxes, plugs, connectors, fuses and all sort of stuff for hours and hours and hours even months to find why we can't get ignition or fuel.With the emerald + cabling, we know that it will work. I kept the mounts for sure ! We kept nearly everything from the donor!Those things are ruined in racing allot, we now gonna remake them tho, so they last a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Those small rear hatch spoilers were optional over here and dealer installed. There's also the head light washers that mount to the grill and the pump/tank and switch inside. We have those washers on the Montero but not the Starion and the grill is slightly different to allow for them. You can ship those things in a plastic pipe for safety. Did you have the ECI harness and ECU from on of those that was good? That car might not have ran from its ignitor being dead. Guess those spoilers are standard over here as they are on all 3 of my starions, exactly the same. All 3 also have the light washers Am gonna look with care after them from now on as didn't know that was exclusively for European cars. We tested with 3 different ignitors, all the same.+ he heated up when under power and gave the correct readings when measured him ... So I don't know, also tested both ECU and different distributors, the only thing we didn't really changed was that knockbox thing as we didn't know a whole lot about it, for what is used for exactly .... Edited February 7, 2012 by Tekker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Am serious thinking of testing with this D2 setup, as they are kinda cheap and I guess I can adjust them to maximum stiffness and highest setting, maybe need another spring but that's after testing with them.Have read bad stuff about these D2's but also good stuff.I'm not sure yet though about how we gonna attach the front set to the axle .... Need to figure it out still. And while I'm testing these D2's am gonna gonna make some Koni inserts of my original set, to test with. So we can compare. http://www.ebay.com/itm/D2-RACING-RS-COILOVER-82-90-STARION-CONQUEST-SUSPENSION-/190467094772?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AStarion&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c58b938f4#ht_5898wt_1396 http://cross.wrw.be/private/D21.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/D22.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Welcome! Glad to see someone saving what they can! Be carefull washing SQ taillights in the dishwasher. I wouldn't be suprised if that got them hot enough to loosen and separate the factory sealer that holds the lenses into the light housings. If that seal gets degraded, then there will be problems with getting moisture inside the lights. At that point you'll want to heat them up again, separate the lens from the housing, then reseal with a quality silicone sealant or something similar. Edited February 8, 2012 by Burton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Welcome! Glad to see someone saving what they can! Be carefull washing SQ taillights in the dishwasher. I wouldn't be suprised if that got them hot enough to loosen and separate the factory sealer that holds the lenses into the light housings. If that seal gets degraded, then there will be problems with getting moisture inside the lights. At that point you'll want to heat them up again, separate the lens from the housing, then reseal with a quality silicone sealant or something similar. Pretty sure he separated the lenses from the housings before he even put them into the dishwasher, and will re-seal them now that they are cleaned Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) Yup I had separated first, to clean thoroughly, was moss building on places where you couldn't get without disassemble the whole thing first.But the good thing is now I can respray the mirror so it's like a new light.It is/was hell though to get the old factory seal out of the seat, to reseal it good and clean. Need to say, that the little reflectors in the tails still have some dirt in between and now a small bit of water came through, and can't seem to open them up without breaking or scratching, so that's gonna have to do for now. Edited February 11, 2012 by Tekker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Need to say, that the little reflectors in the tails still have some dirt in between and now a small bit of water came through, and can't seem to open them up without breaking or scratching, so that's gonna have to do for now. Not sure how to get any dirt out, but keeping the tails hot (not too hot, don't want them to warp or melt) for an extended period of time will evaporate all the water. If it is an almost sealed off area with no airflow it will take a long time to get ride of all the moisture. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekker Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) Have lately destroyed so much, wanted to have some nice stuff now Started cleaning at work and painting a couple of stuff, dunno if it's final color though, will see ... Turbo and the lines in the middle could be done in white, to stand out Used paint stripper, spray'd it on and it was already kinda nice, as it was nice shiny metal, but hey better have some color on it, right ... ?http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000817.jpg Inside started cleaning, it was kinda rusty and stuff, it still needs work !http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000820.jpg Came out nice, compare how it looked, nice black plastic paint.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000821.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000824.jpg This was a whole other story, it was bumped like told.Pressed it out with pressure pump as best I could.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000828.jpgStill have a little dent in it near the overflow bolt.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000830.jpg All the goo is out and rust is almost all out ...http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000831.jpg All rust gone and nicely cleaned up.Most important all the little pieces of metal are out, used high pressure for a long long time, small iron particles kept on coming out.http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000832.jpg Edited February 12, 2012 by Tekker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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