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Tekker

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  1. Tekker
    o ok, great point.
  2. Tekker
    Greetings, I've checked through this post (great post BTW) and it made me wonder how rare my '85 really is I picked up like on a average sunday morning lol, without knowing all of this. Went out to get my papers and indeed he is build at 07/05/1985, on my papers though it state, he is a 1983, but build date 07/05/1985 VIN number: JMBA183AMFZ****** As I understand this model of Intercooled flatty was only build for 1 month and no one knows how many there are in the world ? Or even how many there are still in driving condition ?
  3. Tekker
    You can check your year like this on this post: http://www.starquest...howtopic=124428 MODEL YEAR D = 1983 J = 1988 E = 1984 K = 1989 F = 1985 L = 1990 G = 1986 M = 1991 H = 1987 CHECK DIGIT If you jack your rear end up, and spin 1 wheel and the other spins same direction you have LSD, if it spins opposite direction you have normal. Also something with an orange sticker in your driver door panel ... http://www.starquest...1 http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr71/dmyers151/VIN_Decode.jpg
  4. Tekker
    A flatty jeej What year ? I guess it's a 2.6 ? And you have some nice hot-rods standing there in back view ...
  5. Tekker
    Have lately destroyed so much, wanted to have some nice stuff now Started cleaning at work and painting a couple of stuff, dunno if it's final color though, will see ... Turbo and the lines in the middle could be done in white, to stand out Used paint stripper, spray'd it on and it was already kinda nice, as it was nice shiny metal, but hey better have some color on it, right ... ? http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000817.jpg Inside started cleaning, it was kinda rusty and stuff, it still needs work ! http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000820.jpg Came out nice, compare how it looked, nice black plastic paint. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000821.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000824.jpg This was a whole other story, it was bumped like told. Pressed it out with pressure pump as best I could. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000828.jpg Still have a little dent in it near the overflow bolt. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000830.jpg All the goo is out and rust is almost all out ... http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000831.jpg All rust gone and nicely cleaned up. Most important all the little pieces of metal are out, used high pressure for a long long time, small iron particles kept on coming out. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000832.jpg
  6. Tekker
    Yup I had separated first, to clean thoroughly, was moss building on places where you couldn't get without disassemble the whole thing first. But the good thing is now I can respray the mirror so it's like a new light. It is/was hell though to get the old factory seal out of the seat, to reseal it good and clean. Need to say, that the little reflectors in the tails still have some dirt in between and now a small bit of water came through, and can't seem to open them up without breaking or scratching, so that's gonna have to do for now.
  7. Tekker
    Am serious thinking of testing with this D2 setup, as they are kinda cheap and I guess I can adjust them to maximum stiffness and highest setting, maybe need another spring but that's after testing with them. Have read bad stuff about these D2's but also good stuff. I'm not sure yet though about how we gonna attach the front set to the axle .... Need to figure it out still. And while I'm testing these D2's am gonna gonna make some Koni inserts of my original set, to test with. So we can compare. http://www.ebay.com/itm/D2-RACING-RS-COILOVER-82-90-STARION-CONQUEST-SUSPENSION-/190467094772?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AStarion&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c58b938f4#ht_5898wt_1396 http://cross.wrw.be/private/D21.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/D22.jpg
  8. Tekker
    Guess those spoilers are standard over here as they are on all 3 of my starions, exactly the same. All 3 also have the light washers Am gonna look with care after them from now on as didn't know that was exclusively for European cars. We tested with 3 different ignitors, all the same. + he heated up when under power and gave the correct readings when measured him ... So I don't know, also tested both ECU and different distributors, the only thing we didn't really changed was that knockbox thing as we didn't know a whole lot about it, for what is used for exactly ....
  9. Tekker
    Have been started to look for DOGC 16v or SOHC 8v heads already, but or they are in expensive cars still or people just ask arms and legs for'm. I think I gonna go for the fully aftermarket Emerald ECU and cabling, as we can look and search for all kind of problems in wires, ECU, boxes, plugs, connectors, fuses and all sort of stuff for hours and hours and hours even months to find why we can't get ignition or fuel. With the emerald + cabling, we know that it will work. I kept the mounts for sure ! We kept nearly everything from the donor! Those things are ruined in racing allot, we now gonna remake them tho, so they last a bit longer.
  10. Tekker
    Think this is the European version as I got 3 and most except some nuances is the same. got luck though, got 2 '83 hoods, and the lights as I do like those lights more then the black striped ones, but that's taste I guess.
  11. Tekker
    Hellow
  12. Tekker
    Thinking, thinking, thinking, thinking ^^
  13. Tekker
    Opening up the block. First things first ... oil pan, was bumped, BADLY. So we came up with the reason why this car is set aside for nearly 18 years. Oil pan was dented up and blocked the oil pickup tube. So no oil for the bearings, car we guess was overheated and the bearing of the balance shaft gave way. It was forced out and got inside the engine, the guy prolly heard a rattling noise and pulled over 18 years ago and never looked back. The bearing looked nothing like a round shape no more it was just twisted metal and was giving out louds of small pieces of the material, the engine was filled with it all over the place. I'm glad we found the reason why it was set aside, now we can start to fix it. You can see on top of the pic left, bearing of the balance shaft and the discolorisation, like blue-ish of the overheating. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000772.jpg Does anyone know what these markings mean ? Is it a 8 or a B or is it even 13 C 13 13 ... ? It's like right where the oil cover was mounted. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000783.jpg Engine is very clean, all the bearings 'could' be reused even, but I won't, gonna place in new ones ! Idea's over good ones would be nice, should I get different ones then OEM or should I get forged or something ? Maybe I need oversized cause gonna let the crank measured and if needed reworked. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000785.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000787.jpg Some pics of the hole where the balance bearing needed to be and rubbed balance shaft itself. Was planning on eliminating it anyway so the scratches won't really matter. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000791.jpghttp://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000792.jpghttp://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000794.jpg
  14. Tekker
    Hey hey! Yeah those are EU spec 2.0l Turbo's. I don't want 2.6l as there are little less sharp in the low RPM. And yea there is loads of useful info on this board indeed, we look like a rookie compared to many people here, and w'r wrenching for years on cars for autocross, but never with Turbo and or with 200+ HP cars tho. About the 16valve head, I can if I'm not mistaken can use a couple of heads. Like out of the Lancer VR4 SOHC But there are options I can use DOHC heads aswell, like ... out of an Mitsu Eclipse 2.0 Turbo and some other options, dunno out of my head. So searching for crashed cars and or on scrapheap to find a good head, prefer DOHC 16v.
  15. Tekker
    Follow up: engine taken apart. Engine with drivetrain. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000661.jpg New toy's for looking like a pro http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000704.jpg Starion in a box http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000729.jpg Start of the build off, ready to go ! -10°C out side, but we put through ! http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000746.jpg
  16. Tekker
    A little bit of update of latest progress of the cross flatty's Got some good news but mostly it's bad news and even worse news. Remember how the engine out of the white looked ... well he's still like that, it's a project for later. The red one wasn't all much better, oil pan was filled with iron, later we found out it was a bearing of the balance shaft that gave up. I pulled the red engine out and, was trying to save the red car, but it's completely gone He's completely stripped and taken care of, it's like putting a bullet in a brain. Was hoping to save him to race with but he flatlined sadly. Front while engine is out ... http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000638.jpg Rust all over, main beam couldn't hold nothing, if you pushed it down with very light force, it would bend. http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000688.jpg Completly stripped of just everyhing, and no the door was rusted from the inside out And the parts are from other cars, like worthless Renaults and Ford's. http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0002.jpg Underside of the body was running away from the car, from front to back ... Threw on the floor a fire extinguisher and it fell right through lol. http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0011.jpg Final minutes of a legend on the scrapheap. Sadly I couldn't get my hands on it, a couple years sooner, I'm falling in love with this type of car so it hurts like hell! Luckily I have 2 others to take car of, 1 for the road and one other for racing. All the parts are out ... The seats you say ? Well those are completely ****ted left right and center with rat poo and eaten by rats from the inside out. Rats nested in them, lol rats with taste tho ^^ http://cross.wrw.be/private/IMAG0012.jpg
  17. Tekker
    That's one sweet intake, but I do lack the welding experience to make my own for now, maybe I'll throw in a try, when the engine is running with his stock '83 ECI and stock head. I'll be using forged pistons and forged rods that's for sure already. For the head I'm thinking or better yet, I'm searching for a 16v head, I think in reality it will have more low RPM power ...
  18. Tekker
    I for sure gonna contact that company King Springs for an solution... thanks for the name But do you have any partnumber of those universal Koni's ? Checking the Tein springs route out aswell, mailing with'm as we speak. Am following your thread very closely on your flatty (nice work BTW) and offcourse your sleeveover setup. But I guess that Cosmo's kit, wouldn't it be to short for what I'm intended ? I want to get my car as high as I can ... Or am I looking at it the wrong way, should I just buy myself bigger springs to get what I need? I'm dying to know, if you turn your sleeves completely out (as high as possible, with bigger springs), how much will the car raise above original height ...? Would the rear driveshafts be at an angle, dangerous of breaking while pulling full power ? Such things I would rather know before, instead of finding out in real life, as spare parts aren't very common for quests here. I will have loads of preload on them springs, that's gonna be my biggest problem to find the balance between stiffness and compression to get most grip through bumps and keep my car high enough to cross bumps without diving my nose first in the dirt... and so loosing speed every bump.
  19. Tekker
    Hey, and thanks for reply ! So you basically say, that I need to get a sleeve over, tighten the springs and that my ride is higher ... Or get myself longer and tighter springs ... Or get myself the d2's ... I get that, but won't that be like hell for the coils when we take jumps and go airborn, the tightened springs will try to pop the coils. Already was thinking for solutions for that, like having leather straps to keep the strut together, for when we leave the ground, with tightened springs. I'm still intrigued though, by getting myself Koni Sport inserts as they are very good for the application I need it for (for what I read that is...), the only thing is, it would be nice I have like 5cm upto 10cm bigger struts, to get better ground clearance, without stretching the struts all the way every time we take a big jump. Maybe it's an idea, to have inserts and drop a few washers before dropping in the insert, to have a bigger strut, but then I'm in trouble for the nut on top ... This in combination of the sleeve/coil over.
  20. Tekker
    Greetings, I've read a whole (and I mean a freaking whole lot) lot about the insert struts conversion for starions ... The thing is for me, I don't want to lower the car, I want to raise him ! Any idea for what inserts I can go for ? I prefer Koni Sports. But if Tokico is the only way to go, I could adjust my preference. Aswell, I could have a brainfart on wich springs I could use, for the purpose of building a set for sand/rally cross? Thanks in advance !
  21. Tekker
    Yeah it looks very nasty ! To overhaul the engine and be used in racing I wish I could get a list of stuff I need to do, I have an idea but it would be very helpful to have other opinions ... It needs to give full throttle for about 10-12 minutes. 3 times a day, with 2-3 hours in between, so cooling down is no problem imo Mostly it's just in a ellipse form of sand circuits. So it needs "Full power - Brake hard, Full power - Brake", and so on, like 10 laps, mostly it's only like first gear and second gear, once in a while on a bigger circuit it's third gear for a split second. The most important is: as CHEAP AS POSSIBLE !, It's a hobby and just for fun, nothing to earn high price money. The cost I'm willing or have to make for sure, overboring, oversized race pistons and a race clutch and a lighter flywheel. I consider a T3-T4 hybrid turbo and a Emerald K6 Engine Management, that's as far as I go with high costs, this after the engine is running very good. And if I can find a 16V head and a better inlet manifold cheaply that can be done aswell later on, prolly next race season. All help appreciated !
  22. Tekker
    Heya'z Anybody has any idea of what this dirt could be... (it locks up the engine completly !) This we found when we opened it up lol My description of it, it's like crystallized stuff, when you touch it with a screwdriver or whatever, it cracks like thin ice. The brown looks like rust but it isn't, just has the color of it. The yellow-ish is as-well soft and my brother say's it smalls like oranges lol. Maybe once it was honey and a hive nested in the cylinders but it was still all closed up for many years ... I can't believe it, as the exhaust holes aswell are filled with this stuff, so bee's can't pass there ... (Second piston is just drained cool water) http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000553.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000551.jpg http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000549.jpg
  23. Tekker
  24. Tekker
    Yeah same here, kinda annoying. You need 50 posts before climbing up to start new topics on other then newbie section. I guess it's to keep spammers out, that's good, but 50 posts is allot imo Allthough it encourage to spam yourself (as none spammer) to get there.
  25. Tekker
    Latest Starion pics 2.0l EX intercooler, '85 now. Full option, air conditioning and semi ABS on the back wheels. Seller didn't know for sure but thought diff lock oem on the rears ... Broken engine And no, this cars won't be cut up to go dirt racing, it's still in to good of a condition, prolly engine rebuild and put in the road till it's gone ... Front: http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000442.jpg Back: http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000447.jpg Clean interior, all locks and slots are working: http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000461.jpg Complete original stereo: http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000465.jpg Engine, third cylinder broken http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000466.jpg Can't see the scratch very well, but it's on the right side just above the piston, I think deeper by feeling then oversize boring http://cross.wrw.be/private/WP_000435.jpg
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