lester Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hi there. I have a water channel question for all. Please see the pictures below. The 2 water ports running through the intake manifold, are they connected correctly to the rear metal T piping? I am experiencing a coolant boiling issue whenever I drive the vehicle. The temperature sensor is from the original one on the thermostat housing from the Starion and I am reading it off the F Con Navigator Pro at a temp range of 185 Deg F without the aircon and 212 deg F with the aircon. I can't read the actual reading off the stock cluster gauge of the Pajero as the signal for the thermostat sensor is required by the F Con. When I switch off the vehicle after driving it, the upper radiator hose has coolant boiling going on in it when I feel it by hand. Is this normal? Thanks,http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/20102011650.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/20102011649.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/20102011648.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/21102011652.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/21102011653.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/21102011654.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/lesteryeong/21102011655.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 That will work but it doesn't make provisions for a heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 The rear water port on the intake goes to the steel pipe nipple that points up, and the nipple that points forward is capped off. the front port on the intake is for an aftermarket water temp gauge, or stock replacement. If you run a heater core, you run the rear port to the heater core inlet, and the heater core outlet runs to the steel nipple that points up [and the one that points forward still gets capped]. By hooking up that front port to the steel nipple, you are bypassing a great deal of coolant though the front of the head, starving the rear of the head for adequate coolant flow, blown head gaskets are in your future. There is a stock arrangement where water flows that way in the stock intake, but it has a very small restrictor port inside the intake [where you can't see it] to prevent this bypass scenerio from occuring. It's only there to warm the TBI manifold to prevent icing and speed up warmup, since we don't have that problem [or option] with the magna, it's totaly pointless to recreate that water path, and it is bad for coolant flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 The rear port goes to the heater core and if the valve is shut off then nothing flows out the back of the head. The heater core does remove heat from the coolant if the heater valve is open but do you have that bypassed? That will let too much coolant when combined with coolant from the front not get to the radiator so it depends on how the rest of the system is working. The hose you have from the front dumps into the bypass tube but the original barb was about 1/4" opening. Your radiator cap might not be holding enough pressure or your coolant mix could be off. You can check that with a hydrometer. If its mixed wrong you can overheat too. The pressure from the cap is what raises the boiling point but the coolant mixed in the correct percentage is what protects against freezing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lester Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 The rear water port on the intake goes to the steel pipe nipple that points up, and the nipple that points forward is capped off. the front port on the intake is for an aftermarket water temp gauge, or stock replacement. If you run a heater core, you run the rear port to the heater core inlet, and the heater core outlet runs to the steel nipple that points up [and the one that points forward still gets capped]. By hooking up that front port to the steel nipple, you are bypassing a great deal of coolant though the front of the head, starving the rear of the head for adequate coolant flow, blown head gaskets are in your future. There is a stock arrangement where water flows that way in the stock intake, but it has a very small restrictor port inside the intake [where you can't see it] to prevent this bypass scenerio from occuring. It's only there to warm the TBI manifold to prevent icing and speed up warmup, since we don't have that problem [or option] with the magna, it's totaly pointless to recreate that water path, and it is bad for coolant flow. The heater core for the aircon has been bypassed. In Singapore, it is hot and wet or hotter and wetter. There is another opening on the underside of the front hose where a two wire water temp sensor is installed but not used. Right now I should isolate the front hose to the rear nipple and that should solve my problems right? The rest of the system is as stock. The only modification done and posed a consistent heating issue was when I changed from TBI to MPI. Radiator cap is new and rated at 1.3kg and coolant is 30% ethylene glycol. What do you guys do to block off the rear nipple? It is very difficult to access the rear nipple now, I might just block it off from the rubber hose from the front. This should work right? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I used a hose with a big bolt in it, then clamped. It didn't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lester Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hi all. I have isolated the front pipe and blocked it with a temp sensor from my TBi manifold. On the pipe side, I used a similar sized bolt with a upper section without thread and blocked it. Seems like my overheating woe has gone away. I am reading 187 deg F to 202 deg F max under a hot day of 95 deg F. Will monitor some more. Thank you to those who have made this possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hi all. I have isolated the front pipe and blocked it with a temp sensor from my TBi manifold. On the pipe side, I used a similar sized bolt with a upper section without thread and blocked it. Seems like my overheating woe has gone away. I am reading 187 deg F to 202 deg F max under a hot day of 95 deg F. Will monitor some more. Thank you to those who have made this possible. ^ awesome !! Thanks for sharing back, others have routed their water pipes the same way as you had, so this is very good info to share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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