Wally Walt Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Ok so I built my engine and everything I made sure all the grounds were good when the engine was out then once I got everything back out it all together. Finally got everything hooked up and tried to start it the other night. The very first time it started for maybe 3 seconds then shut off. So I was like well that's weird but kept trying all night and it never kicked over again except one other time but it just shut right off again. So I'm sure you all can guess I'm rather upset just wondering if anyone knows what's going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) A couple things you want to check,battery voltage at least 12.5vtry heating up the CTS or at least test it to see if it is in range because the ECU has been reset and it needs to see the coolant temp to know how much fuel to let the injectors push.once started check curb idle speed and reset the ISC/TPSDouble check the MAS square connector on the air canister that it is not lose.You're not trying to break in a new camshaft are you?? Edited October 22, 2011 by Metric-man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierquest Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 So is it cranking over fine buy will not fire? Or it will not even turn over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Ok the cam has about a 1000 miles on it I was told so how true that is idk. The MAS is on tight and what do yoy want me to heat up? And yes the engine cranks just won't start again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Ok the cam has about a 1000 miles on it I was told so how true that is idk. The MAS is on tight and what do yoy want me to heat up? And yes the engine cranks just won't start again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) Ok the cam has about a 1000 miles on it I was told so how true that is idk. The MAS is on tight and what do yoy want me to heat up? And yes the engine cranks just won't start againYeah the camshaft is already broken in,did you install new rocker arms on the cylinder head ? The coolant temp sensor is what you want to check,(It sits in a coolant passage so you might want to lower the coolant level a little before removing it)You could remove it and heat it up in a cup of water and test the resistance with an OHM meterhttp://partimages.genpt.com/partimages//496170.jpgIndiana wrote the (2) quoted posts below describing the difference in the sensors on the intake manifold and their relationship to fuel distribution.. an detail descriptions.You have the stock TBI throttlebody manifold right?not the MPI multi-port...? this link shows the part numbers http://www.starquest...showtopic=11310 The small sensor in the upper thermostat housing is a shut down switch for your A/C compressor. The Coolant Temp. Sensor is in the intake manifold just to the rear of where you see the thermostat. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/ECICTS.jpg As is other fuel injected engines when they are cold they get some extra fuel until they warm up, its like a choke on a carburetor. The coolant temp. sensor will tell the ECU this and if its not connected it won't do anything different than a warm motor when its started and its not connected. The CTS is not a necessary sensor to drive this car its more of a cold weather convenience. It has no effect on ignition timing or boost. Its gives more driveability to the car. It could also be plugged in wrong since two sensors have the same plug. Even if the sensor is good, and they are tested WRONG when using an ohm meter all the time since the resistance of the lead wires on the meters are usually ignored since most do not know how to use an ohm meter and throw out perfectly good sensors that has nothing to do with a dirty primary injector or in your case what a dying ignitor can do. You can check the CTS as suggested and that's not a bad idea and you can have your injectors cleaned, you said "rebuilt" but these can't be "rebuilt" only cleaned and you can't do that at home and there isn't really a test for a bad ignitor. When the plastic ignitors you have go bad they do strange things. Ignitors control timing to an extent that's great enough to make the car undriveable and it will barely run or won't run at all. Since you said it seems to clear up when you are DRIVING it that tells me you are getting too much fuel and you need the rpms, heat and boost to clear that up. I'd suggest you have your injectors professionally cleaned if you haven't and that' doesn't mean a gas station with a sign that says they clean injectors it means a shop that specializes in that service. The end of the CTS is molded into an oval shape with a lip on it, it was for a boot that used to be or still is if you're lucky molded over the plug in the harness so this connection didn't get wet or dirty. Most got hard, cracked and fell off ten years ago.http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/ECICTS.jpgLike I mentioned before the ECU needs to see a reference to the coolant temp voltage resistance especially once it's memory has been cleared by having battery voltage removed (disconnected) Edited October 22, 2011 by Metric-man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ok I changed the yep plugs that are the same and the car still didn't fire. And what is the OHM meter. Suppose to read? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KT Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Your timing is 180 degrees out. Restab the dist and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ok ill try that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ok so checked that and it wasn't it but none of the plugs are wet at all so I'm getting no gas but the fuel pump is running Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Have you checked compression before you tried to start it? That's the first thing you should have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 You can disconnect the TB air intake hose and squirt a small amount of fuel in there to see if it runs for a few seconds each time. Then you know for sure it is fuel related and go from there. Chances are the injectors are varnished closed and need freed up / cleaned to get it to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Walt Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Ok so it was fuel releated but now it will run longer but still not stay running i think its my timing because it pops here and there when i keep trying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Is the mas air sensor connected? If you are sure the cam is in correctly, it is most likely a problem with fuel delivery. If the car sat, then the injectors could be plugged up / varnished closed. The fuel pump could be seizing but unlikely. The injector clips could be corroded from sitting too. Take a close visual inspection of the intake manifold ground wire. Where it connects to the harness. You can even run a separate wire from intake to battery ground to see if that is the problem. Are the spark plug wires on the cap in the correct order? You can put the distributor either directly in the middle of the adjustment, or a little toward the top of the slot (more slot to bottom, less slot up top by turning it counterclockwise). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 stop guessing and pick up an inj led tester,, see if the injs are being pulse'd if not the ecu is not seeing an ign spark signaltest for coil fire,,eetc and stop guessing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Unplug the secondary injector to make sure you have the primary injector plugged to the right clip.Were the injectors good and not leaking before?Injector clips might be loose or dirty.Timing must be set again using a timing light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 you guys get this all back wards,,you beleave you can rebuild an engine but can't diagnoise a simple no start problem and wonder why your engines blow up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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