Komeuppance Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Ha, I see... good to use as an excuse to put in upgrade parts haha. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Clutch didn't fix the issue. To test the exhaust should I pull all of it or leave the downpipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Well, it looked like your downpipe was too close, pull all of it. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 ah be careful runing with no down pipe,,the exh is like a flame thrower , one or two guys set the bottom of their car on fire doing that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Those two reasons were exactly what I was debating lol. I will leave the downpipe and secure it away. If it still does it then at the very least with just the downpipe on it should change the effect so I would have some idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Quick question..this crossed my mind. Could a lightened flywheel possibly cause this issue? I noticed on decel the car seems to feel bogged down more so than my father's car. Lightened, resurfaced, and balanced. The idea in my head was that with a lighter flywheel there is less mass rotating for the engine's side so the resistance from the rear with the high gear would be harder for the engine to fight. Doubt it since im the only one to bring this up, just a thought though. Edited June 16, 2011 by ColdScrip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 a heavy fly wheel will help the car maintain rpms longer then a light fly wheel,,also an open bov will lessen the engine decell load so it will coast with less resistance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Those two reasons were exactly what I was debating lol. I will leave the downpipe and secure it away. If it still does it then at the very least with just the downpipe on it should change the effect so I would have some idea. a few years back several down pipes that were being sold had problems touching the engine block at the rear of the block,, this cause all sorts of noise and vibrations the down pipe should have a connector plate made on it just as it turns to go back under the car,,and a flex section made onto the pipe just after the connector so it alows the engine to flex under load look at any frt wheel drive car all have flex sections to alow the engine to move with out placeing aload or stress on the exh pipeing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Quick question..this crossed my mind. Could a lightened flywheel possibly cause this issue? I noticed on decel the car seems to feel bogged down more so than my father's car. Lightened, resurfaced, and balanced. The idea in my head was that with a lighter flywheel there is less mass rotating for the engine's side so the resistance from the rear with the high gear would be harder for the engine to fight. Doubt it since im the only one to bring this up, just a thought though. My flywheel is lightened also Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 ok so after 5 pages we still don't know if the car was fix'd or not ,,come on guys,, the fix is as important as the question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 (edited) Before pigeon forge I did not have enough time to drop the exhaust and see if that fixes it. However, that seems to be the last thing left to do that people suggested. I will do it once I am home. The car still has the issue at low speed high gear. The highway vibration has been greatly reduced. Now its only a small vibration from 55-65 that is only present when the gas pedal is slightly pushed down (cruising). I just wish there was atleast SOME change in the low speed high gear issue but no luck. I am hoping some members will be able to ride/drive my car to possibly spark some more ideas. Replaced so far:-Clutch-Tranny-Driveshaft-Torque tube-differential-axles-OEM diff mounts-different stock replacement tranny mount (just in case)-resurfaced (again) lightened flywheel, retorqued Edited July 2, 2011 by ColdScrip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 2, 2011 Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 Was your crank and piston/rods balanced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Was your crank and piston/rods balanced? Yes sir, including the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Alright so two things. One is that 55-65 vibration actually is somewhat present when the car is in neutral. If you put it in gear and give it gas it magnifies it a bit until it dissipates past 65mph. Secondly, I took my exhaust off the downpipe and hung it from the downpipe and also to the strut bar. I noticed that the exhaust from the rear of the car up to the downpipe wants to fight you and pull into the transmission. Obviously with it attatched to the downpipe, it doesn't do this. So I took it out for a test drive and it felt a little better but I wanted to be sure... After driving it a bit it felt just as bad as before. So its either not the exhaust or I should drop the entire exhaust and run it...which I might just go do right now. Only leaving the downpipe on to prevent a fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 With the exhaust completely off besides the downpipe, the problem exists. I didn't try a 55-65 run as i was afraid of a fire and the cops with the noise lol. Any other ideas or is it time to give up and accept it as 'working properly for my setup' or should i try the dangerous way of recreating the problem while its up on jacks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Excuse me since I've been drinking, but have you checked the tires/wheels?? -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Excuse me since I've been drinking, but have you checked the tires/wheels?? -Robert Swapped front wheels/tired no change. If I am going 30mph in netural with no vibration, then put it in 4th or 5th and floor it to have a huge amount of vibration appear why would it be the tires? The gas pedal (engine fighting the drivetrain) controls the amount of vibration. The vibration is not consistent to speed but rather load on the engine and the throttle. The vibration at 55-65mph could very well be a separate issue that could be the wheels/tires though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Swapped front wheels/tired no change. If I am going 30mph in netural with no vibration, then put it in 4th or 5th and floor it to have a huge amount of vibration appear why would it be the tires? The gas pedal (engine fighting the drivetrain) controls the amount of vibration. The vibration is not consistent to speed but rather load on the engine and the throttle. The vibration at 55-65mph could very well be a separate issue that could be the wheels/tires though... Shelby stated earlier in the thread, putting load on an engine at low RPM's will "lug" it and definitely cause vibration. It just may be that your engine is not running well enough to handle that kind of load, it surely sounds like it. Higher speed vibration is almost always tires/wheels, which was what I was referring to. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) Shelby stated earlier in the thread, putting load on an engine at low RPM's will "lug" it and definitely cause vibration. It just may be that your engine is not running well enough to handle that kind of load, it surely sounds like it. Higher speed vibration is almost always tires/wheels, which was what I was referring to. -Robert Right, thanks for that. I will certainly make sure they are balanced with new tires when the time comes to replace the tires. The motor was completely done...forged pistons, ported manifolds and head, oversized valves, lightened flywheel, etc. its a really strong motor with 150 compression across the board. I made sure I did everything I could do to this motor besides aftermarket rods. Edited July 9, 2011 by ColdScrip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marso Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) I have had a vibration issue in my engine ever since the rebuild with no Balance Shafts. My shifter buzz's like a nuclear "toy" at 4k RPM no matter if the car is moving or parked in neutral clutch in or out. It was torn down and balanced again from pully to pressure plate but the vibration is still there. The shafts are going back in my engine. I have the same issue as you under lugging conditions. Edited July 10, 2011 by marso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 The motor was completely done...forged pistons, ported manifolds and head, oversized valves, lightened flywheel, etc. its a really strong motor with 150 compression across the board. I made sure I did everything I could do to this motor besides aftermarket rods. Yes, motor may be fine mechanically. But what affects the way it runs is the fuel and ignition system. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 I have had a vibration issue in my engine ever since the rebuild with no Balance Shafts. My shifter buzz's like a nuclear "toy" at 4k RPM no matter if the car is moving or parked in neutral clutch in or out. It was torn down and balanced again from pully to pressure plate but the vibration is still there. The shafts are going back in my engine. I have the same issue as you under lugging conditions. new shaft brgs is the cause for most new rebuild failures reguarding the bal shafts,, new brgs some times crush and after install are too tight on the shaft brg surface,,, not realy a lot of ways to clearance these interior brgs ,,the top left upper brg could be clearance'd with the freeze out plug remove'd and a suitable hone use'd ,,the lower rear brg,,the only way i ever found to actualy clearance it was with valve grinding compound and thats a iffy way to do it the time/effort require'd to clerance the new bal shaft brgs is why NO after market rebuilder installs them in their reman engines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Yes, motor may be fine mechanically. But what affects the way it runs is the fuel and ignition system. -Robert Have to say the motor runs flawlessly. I really don't see how it could be fuel/ignition related. If its in the correct gear theres no vibration and tons of power, smooth revs, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 another thing that will cause a shake is a worn out idler arm , and or a worn out ball joint and in extream condition a completely worn out frt strut shock low rpm power is a product of tourqe and cid creates tourqe,, our 156 cid will not build enought tourqe to excellerate the car under 1600 rpms , it's not a 350 cid v8 ,, example my MPi truck in OD @ 45 mph turn'd arround 1600 rpms or basicly was just idleing,, it had not enought tourqe to excellerate with any balls from that rpm you could cruise on a flat road for ever but if you want'd to gain speed you had to drop out of OD now my old chev pick up with a 350 could take off at idle and pull a boat , more cid = more low end tourqe,, small cid needs more rpm to produce the same tourqe no way arround that also luging an engine at low rpm in a too tall gear is a sure way to create knock and damage can result also auto trannys have a convertor that doubles the engine rpms at low rpm to increase the tourqe out put but it also alows for more rpms then a 5 spd at same speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 another thing that will cause a shake is a worn out idler arm , and or a worn out ball joint and in extream condition a completely worn out frt strut shock low rpm power is a product of tourqe and cid creates tourqe,, our 156 cid will not build enought tourqe to excellerate the car under 1600 rpms , it's not a 350 cid v8 ,, example my MPi truck in OD @ 45 mph turn'd arround 1600 rpms or basicly was just idleing,, it had not enought tourqe to excellerate with any balls from that rpm you could cruise on a flat road for ever but if you want'd to gain speed you had to drop out of OD now my old chev pick up with a 350 could take off at idle and pull a boat , more cid = more low end tourqe,, small cid needs more rpm to produce the same tourqe no way arround that also luging an engine at low rpm in a too tall gear is a sure way to create knock and damage can result also auto trannys have a convertor that doubles the engine rpms at low rpm to increase the tourqe out put but it also alows for more rpms then a 5 spd at same speed Thanks for the information, I will certainly only purposefully do this to test if its still there. Idler arm was replaced to fix a steering issue. Could have been what helped the 55+ mpg vibration. Front struts are KYBs I replaced with the restore, autozone ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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