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Torque specs?


gooch
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Any one know how many FT LB's I need to torque the flywheel bolts to the crank and also the clutch to the flywheel?

I'm running an aluminum Fidanza.

 

Found something on a sight that said F/W to crank 55ftlb's and clutch to F/W 13ftlb's.

 

This almost sounds too low...?

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Flywheel to crank should be higher like 100- 120 ft/lbs, the pressure plate to flywheel bolts don't get torqued that high maybe 20ft/lb

 

This is off the top of my head so if some one can confirm???

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Any one know how many FT LB's I need to torque the flywheel bolts to the crank and also the clutch to the flywheel?

I'm running an aluminum Fidanza.

 

 

 

I'm not going anywhere near this one ;)

 

Bill

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I'm not going anywhere near this one ;)

 

Bill

 

Me neither!!! Jesus H. Christ the FSM flywheel fastener torque specs apply across the board regardless of what flywheel is used.

 

Use some self inititive and look the flywheel fastener torque specs up in Starquest Garage's applicable year's Service Manuals. Those specs do not change.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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You need to read this:

http://www.b2600turb...um_flywheel.htm

 

If you think you can put that wheel on cold or just warm you're wrong. That wheel has to be HOT as in leave it in an oven for half an hour and you'll use welding gloves to handle it and get the bolts in quick that wheel cools quick too. Don't believe me, you'll find out later after the thrust bearing is ate up and I can't tell you how many times that has happened. Those bolts WILL NOT pull that wheel on I don't care if you turn them so tight the heads twist off there will still be a gap behind the wheel. The wheel was made on purpose to be smaller than the crankshaft hub for this car. Fidanza sells many wheels and many do fit without heating, this one you must heat it. At least find some very thin steel washers, you'll chew up the hub if not. You are required to install the wheel once, let it cool then remove it and look at the back of the wheel just to make sure then do it all over again. Then you need to spin the crank and use a dial indicator or at least a piece of wire bolted to the block as a pointer and make sure it doesn't WOBBLE. This is information for you, ignore it and you'll pay for it.

 

Oh, you'll need a plastic deadblow hammer to remove it. After it cools it fits the hub that tight. Pulling the wheel on cold sheers off the edge of the flywheel hub on one side or the other as it cuts then the wheel is not longer centered it will rotate in an orbital pattern. You'll never see it but that's what will happen. That sheered off aluminum gets in the space behind the hub as it pulls on and prevents it from seating not to mention its not centered and after a couple high rpm limit spins, it will just start bangin around and it sounds like all the bearings in the engine just fell out.

 

Sometimes you might have worn or chewed up stock bolts, that post isn't about ARPs but it is about heating the wheel and following their instructions but you need to protect the wheel from the turning bolts. The dowel, its 50/50 or so contact from the wheel and the crank and depending on what this car is to do, that's when you need to decide if you need a dowel that actually fits and works or that stock dowel that half works.

Edited by Indiana
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