stonetree Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 My 86 conquest will not start when the temp is around 30 degrees and the car has been sitting for more than an hour. I have replaced the battery cables, cleaned the fusible links, replaced the ground strap, installed an interstate battery, and used dielectric grease on everything. I tested the battery with a load tester and it tested fine. The alternator is charging fine. This happened last winter and I replaced the battery. Then I had to disconnect the battery at night to or else it would'nt start in the morning, so I replaced the battery to no avail. Now its worse than ever, could it be the alternator? If I can't figure it out, I am thinking of installing a battery disconnect switch( I know its only a bandaid). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OPTIMUSPRIME Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 Do you have anything wire directly?(like fans,alarms,sound system, etc...)You could have a open switch but, whats the charging voltage when running?At start up? warm? lights on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 (edited) How long to you drive? Is everything turned on when you do? How many amps is that battery? Your alternator is only 65amps. You let it sit idling with the heater on? How about headlights? Dirty cables can cause this, new or not they still corrode. The fuse link from the charge wire of the alternator, is its smooth or wrinkled, tug on it a bit and see if it stretches or feels like it feels crunchy inside it may be mostly burnt up. Its on the end of the wire near the positive battery post. It is pushed onto a clip at the battery terminal or bolted down with a ring terminal? That clip on connection the early cars had gets dirty too. Edited November 19, 2010 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobalt60 Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 When I had a battery drain issue, it turned out to be my power antenna. I disconnected the fuse for it and all is better. I found out it was my power antenna by hooking an ammeter to the battery and pulling out fuses individually and noted which ones caused a drop in current draw. Certain things are supposed to draw current while the car is off, such as the radio and clock. However, things like power antennas should not. -Chris P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSwan Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 When I had a battery drain issue, it turned out to be my power antenna. I disconnected the fuse for it and all is better. I found out it was my power antenna by hooking an ammeter to the battery and pulling out fuses individually and noted which ones caused a drop in current draw. Certain things are supposed to draw current while the car is off, such as the radio and clock. However, things like power antennas should not. -Chris P these can be challenging to track down and amping around a little like mentioned above may be needed. when amping things out, don't forget your power windows will have power after the car is shutoff until you open the driver door. I would also check for corrosion at the tail light sockets, especially the white backup light sockets. if you have moisture behind your back lights, you could have a short there. jswan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 (edited) How many CCA is your battery? ETACS!!!! They do make battery blankets you can wrap around your battery to keep it warmer. Could be your starter is failing too, or the starter cable is f'd up. Prolly not ETACS on an 86? There is a huge draw somewhere if the battery is dead within an hour. Edited November 21, 2010 by DzNutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Pull the negative battery cable. Take a test light and put one lead on the cable, the other on the battery. If the light fires up, you've got a draw. If not, battery's toast. If you do have the light, start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out...that'll be your bad circuit. Actually first thing I'd undo would be the fusable link for the alternator, just to see if it's got a bad diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonetree Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 The battery is a 560 cranking amp with 450 cold cranking amps and load tested fine. The fans are hooked up via an inline fuse and they come on when the key is in the on position. The battery tested: 13.08 not running,14.63 idle, 14.33 headlights on, 14.31 add radio, and 13.65 adding heater. Disconnected positive cable and ran test light between it and positive terminal, result test light lit up. Next took out each fuse one at a time and test light stayed on. Next disconnected radio and alternator, test light stayed on. Removed each relay (behind the cover next to the battery) one at a time, test light stayed on. Removed fusable links behind the cover, still the test light stayed on. Removed each fusable link on outside of that cover and BINGO!!! the fusable link closest to the battery shut off the light. Tried swapping it with the one next to it, but had the same result(light stays on untill I break that connection). Time for a bandaid, I mean toggle switch? What is the next plan of attack? Thanks for all the great input it is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 No matter what wire, fuse or fuse link you pulled, that circuit will need further checking until you find the "problem" spot. Could be anything along the entire circuit, connectors, wires, switches etc. Start from the fuse link you pulled, check the connections there. Make sure you check all around any part of the circuit, you'd be surprised how often a visual check finds it. Check with meter to the next part of the circuit for continuity, then check that second connection to ground. Remember that only a bulb, motor etc. that actually uses the electrical energy should get a response to ground. You can even smell a burnt switch, relay etc. Any wire with worn insulation is suspect, check this very carefully. To make a permanent repair here requires cutting the wire at the worn area, strip back the insulation about 1/4 inch, slip on one end some shrink wrap, make a good strong splice (you should be able to pull on both ends of the splice and still have it tight...it comes undone, you'll need to make a better splice), check repair with meter making sure the splice does not contact anything, checks ok then solder the splice, let cool a minute or two, slide the shrink wrap over the repair and make sure undamaged insultion is under both ends of the shrink wrap, heat with hairdryer on high a few seconds, the shrink wrap will shrink down and seal the repair. Move on to the next suspect spot. Check the ENTIRE circuit, can be more than one "problem" area. There might be a wiring diagram in the manual section on this site. It should help you trace the circuit. I would not recommend a toggle switch as a "band-aid" for long..there is a problem in that circuit and could lead to more burnt parts or worse. Bite the bullet and trace the circuit, repair as needed. You'll be glad you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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