Jump to content

boost issue? fuel issue? help!!!!


jstow
 Share

Recommended Posts

been fighting this issue for awhile. ill give you the run down of my car:1987 conquest tsi, mods/upgrades: 1989 starion ecu, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, bosch coil, accel plugs, 1g mas, bosch fuel pump(higher flow than stock), 1g dsm bov not resirculated, new injector clips also cleaned the injectors,...my isse is the car will run start and drive just fine but once floored or wanting to boost it will creep to 10psi(set with boost controller) like normal but once it hits 10 it will bog/jerk front to back/backfire and shoot a flame shoot black smoke and this all happens in low rpms(around 3-4k). would this be more so my car needs to be tuned or is something not fireing right when under load or is my motor gong to s***? any help would be great and if anyone can take pics of their vaccum lines for everything on the intake manifold please do so cuz when i bought the car it nearly had no vac lines hooked up and i threw some in to places that seemed to make sense and im wondering if that has to do with my issue but the car has always ran like this wen i bought it. thanks everyone
Link to comment
Share on other sites

should be a vac diagram on the under side of the hood. may also want to verify your vac advance is working correctly, just pull the hose and suck on it and place your tounge against it and it should hold the vacuum, if it leaks off and wont stay stuck to your tougue then its faulty.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

accel plugs? get those out of there

 

NGK part #7031 BUR7EA-11

 

Its either misfiring from being too rich and those plugs are fouling and or its a bad vac. adv.

The vac. adv. both increases and retards timing and when it isn't the knock sensor tells the ignitor to pull timing back and it happens instantly so the motor stumbles. Here's how that works.

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/distri1.jpg

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/distri2.jpg

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/distri3.jpg

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/distri4.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

should be a vac diagram on the under side of the hood. may also want to verify your vac advance is working correctly, just pull the hose and suck on it and place your tounge against it and it should hold the vacuum, if it leaks off and wont stay stuck to your tougue then its faulty.

 

 

with car running? sorry im stupid with these cars still and learning....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is no vac diagram under my hood.......can someone post a pic of the one from the throttle body tow.e it goes to and pretty much just the hole drive side of their motor please i cannot find any under google and most are multi point ones lol
Link to comment
Share on other sites

and i sucked on that vac hose you were talkin about and it stay stuck to my tounge

 

Do you have a A/F Gauge? If so, what is the reading on it when this occurs. Stock fuel injectors? Sometimes cleaning 20 year old injectors are a waste. Post back and let us know the answers to the questions posted by me, so we can better help you.

 

CALIBER 308

Edited by Caliber308
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a A/F Gauge? If so, what is the reading on it when this occurs. Stock fuel injectors? Sometimes cleaning 20 year old injectors are a waste. Post back and let us know the answers to the questions posted by me, so we can better help you.

 

CALIBER 308

 

as far as i know they are the stock injectors, and no wideband or a/f guage......im leanin more to it bein really rich but i just wanna check with some ppl on here before i spend the money on a tune whitch i should do anyways soon but would rather ask around first to make sure my vac lines arent my issue

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as far as i know they are the stock injectors, and no wideband or a/f guage......im leanin more to it bein really rich but i just wanna check with some ppl on here before i spend the money on a tune whitch i should do anyways soon but would rather ask around first to make sure my vac lines arent my issue

 

Spray starting fluid on ALL your vacuum hoses with the car running at idle, that is the quickest way to find a leak.Idle changes =leak detected. Without some way to monitor your Air/Fuel ratios, You,I or no one else knows what is going on. The A/F gauge will help you in finding out your problem.

 

CALIBER 308

Edited by Caliber308
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would maybe try bypassing the BOV, and trying a STOCK mass in place of the 1g mass. last 1g BOV we tried using leaked like crazy and made the car run like crap.

 

ive heard its harder on a motor to run none blow off what would your opinion be on that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive heard its harder on a motor to run none blow off what would your opinion be on that?

 

Put your Stock MAS back on and disconnect the bov then see if it does the same thing. If it doesn't, then the problem is either your 1st Gen set up, the bov or a vacuum leak from your vacuum hoses or turbo/intercooler coupler connections.

 

CALIBER 308

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes it is a little harder on the turbo without a BOV, the bov releases backedup pressure when the TB closes when you shift gears. without the BOV that air backs up thru the pipes and exits the turbo, while its doing that it brings the turbo wheel to a violent stop and is hard on the bearings.

 

but you need to find a problem and you need to eliminate the BOV as the problem so you need to get it bypassed and take it for a drive.

 

this is candis car when we first got it, knotice the 1G bov...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/candiscar/candi023.jpg

 

it leaked like a mother trucker and made the car run like crap, but it wasnt until we spent about $300 in tune up parts and it still ran like crap. i grabbed a peice of exhaust pipe and made a bypass peice and took it for a drive and BINGO!

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/candiscar/candi3022.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

it leaked like a mother trucker and made the car run like crap, but it wasnt until we spent about $300 in tune up parts and it still ran like crap.

 

Troubleshooting............. maybe it would be cheaper???

 

CALIBER 308

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its just a plain stock DSM BOV and you didn't do anything to it then it most certainly IS blowing open while you drive. If you rev the motor up and hold it around 3000rpms steady and put your hand over the BOV vent and have air blowing on you that's because both the high volume of vacuum from the reference hose at steady rpms and no boost combined with the air flow from the turbo even though there is no boost there is still a great deal of air flowing that can leak out if the BOV isn't sealed. When the air leaks out that the MAF metered and the ECU put in the fuel for it the car runs very rich and like total crap. The part about it leaking isn't always 100% that its at a steady throttle/higher rpms either. As you drive you are constantly changing throttle position, its up and down you accelerate then you coast and every single time you slightly let up on the throttle when using one of these unmodded DSM BOVs the damn thing comes open and this is the problem with running one that isn't modded.

 

and I don't mean "crush it", imo that ruins it

 

You can google the 1G BOV mods there are a few different ways to go about it.

 

http://www.dsmtuners...v-101-mods.html

Edited by Indiana
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...