crylra Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 My Name is Cory, I'm new to the forums here, and hopefully you all can help. I bought a 1986 Conquest TSI today and all is well so far except... 83k miles, driven only 3k in the last few years though... Car hesitates consistantly under load/boost at 3200 rpms. Compression check good, turbo spools properly, no bleeding capacitors on the ECM (looked there as was a problem causing the same symptoms on a 91 Stealth RT/TT) and otherwise nothing visibly wrong. Could this be something very simple?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 A bad vacuum advance can cause that. Put a section of vacuum hose on it and suck. It should meet immediate pressure and hold it. If you can continue to draw air, it is bad. The FAQ forum has the replacement instructions.Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 Check your injectors and clips. A local guy near me had the same problem a few weeks back and it was a junk secondary injector. switch the injector clips from the primary injector to the secondary (as a test) and see if the car starts, if it wont start and idle, your secondary injector is probably toast. Good luck with it. BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Check your injectors and clips. A local guy near me had the same problem a few weeks back and it was a junk secondary injector. switch the injector clips from the primary injector to the secondary (as a test) and see if the car starts, if it wont start and idle, your secondary injector is probably toast. Good luck with it. BC_99does this test work on 87 as well? mine wont idle if i switch them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Yes 87-89's run the primary/secondary setup. This isn't the case with the OP's 86 and it's batch type fuel system. There can be many stages of injector issues that present the problems at different times. On one car the secondary could be partially gummed up while another cars injector is clogged shut. Add into that the wild variances between the resistance each cars injectors pull from different stages of corrosion within the wiring harness, injector clips and the injector terminals themselves. Start digging into this type of issue by sanding down the injector terminals with a nail file or sand paper wrapped around a thin and sturdy tool like a small flathead screwdriver. Sand on the terminals until they're a shiny silver color. Do the tops, bottoms, and sides of the terminals. Now throw a multimeter on each injector to make sure they read between 2-3ohms. Replace the injector clips and inspect the injector wiring on the harness side for green colored corrosion, and cut it back until the wiring is good. That's enough to get you started, and beyond that is getting the injectors cleaned professionally or in a DIY capacity, digging into and inspecting/replacing the three serviceable fuel filters these cars have, and doing a fuel pressure test while under load to round out the fuel system tests. Next comes the ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 If it was the secondary injector, it wouldn't have to be under load or boost to cut out. It would happen sitting still by just giving it throttle.Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crylra Posted August 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Thanks so much for all the feedback guys... I wanted to be a little clearer about the hesitation... it doesn't quite fall on it's face, it feels more like it drops a cylinder... I believe the plugs have recently been changed but could this be an injector or plug/wire issue? Secondly... I am niticing a rather ofputting clunk come from the rear upon starting off in first gear, and even more evident in reverse.... The guy who brought the car to me dolly towed the car, and i fear he did damage as i didn't think Starquest were supposed to be towed that way... What now?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Might check the differential mounts, if one is torn it can make a loud noise on decel while in gear or going in reverse then coming to a stop. The differential under forward power is mashed down since it has an LSD inside, while coming to a stop it tries to pull up and against the mounts. If someone jacked up the car from the differential and not the crossmember that can tear them apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/oilsep.gif http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/86vachoses01.jpghttp://www.b2600turbo.com/images/86vachoses02.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crylra Posted August 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Can't thank you guys enough for all your help! I'll let you know what I find. The diff. mounts make a whole lot of sense with the noise I am heering... it doesn't feel like anything is actually broken in the rear, but I almost felt like the it was hitting something likt the exhaust when it moved. I have to get under there and check it out. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N8S86QUEST Posted August 5, 2010 Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 I had the same problem as I 2 have a 1986 Plymouth Conquest TSi. I found alot of helpful things on racetep.com and they said to unplug the mass air sensor on the airbox so i did. This makes a huge difference in the way it runs, totally better. However, it does not want to start up worth a damn! So if its warm it'll start up every time, but if its cold, it'll start up but it takes pumping the gas and turning it over and over again and again. I dont know if this helps but maybe run a toggle switch to the sensor and when you start it up switch it off or something, I dunno. Hope this helps.N8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crylra Posted August 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2010 Indiana, you are good sir... exactly right on the rear diff. mounts. Ordered them today. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 I had the same problem as I 2 have a 1986 Plymouth Conquest TSi. I found alot of helpful things on racetep.com and they said to unplug the mass air sensor on the airbox so i did. This makes a huge difference in the way it runs, totally better. However, it does not want to start up worth a damn! So if its warm it'll start up every time, but if its cold, it'll start up but it takes pumping the gas and turning it over and over again and again. I dont know if this helps but maybe run a toggle switch to the sensor and when you start it up switch it off or something, I dunno. Hope this helps.N8 sorry but that is not what i'd call good info,, you haven't fix'd your problem but you have cause'd 2 more for sure some times you need to take what your told with a grain of salt,, all things you can do are not good things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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